Hello I currently use two Atlas code 80 manual switches on my layout. So I just received a new Atlas GP -7 a week ago and have problems with the wheels riding up over the narrow flanges causing the engine to "bump" up and come down as if it had pizza cutting wheels on it. This will occasionally cause the engine to derail especially if pulling cars. I have two other new Atlas locos, an S-2, and a U23-B with no problems. What are my options to deal with this? Is it possible to make that opening for the flange of the wheel any wider? Thanks Paul
Do you have a track/wheel gauge? I would check the wheel gauge of the GP-7 since the other locos have no problems.
I would first check the wheels of the new loco against a NMRA wheel gauge and then the track gauge and flangeway depth which the gauge has a side for. Also look for anything in the flangeways such as ballast or plastic flash. I had issues with some rerailers causing derailments which I cured by deepening the flangeways. Also check the points on the rails that they are sitting against the rail properly in which ever direction the rail are thrown.
I haven't used the Atlas code 80 turnouts, but have had similar issues with their code 55 turnouts... particularly the #5s and #2.5 Ys (about 1/2 of the #5s I have installed have had an issue). In my case, it was not a wheel gauge problem... tho' a couple borderline axles on my challenger exacerbated the problem. It was clearly the turnouts themselves. With my turnouts, it's not a problem with the frog flange ways themselves being to narrow or too shallow. Rather, the check/guard rail on the outside rail opposite the frogs on many of the #5 turnouts I have installed are misplaced... the back to back spacing of the frog flange way to the check rail is too wide for the back to back spacing of the wheels. You can easily check if this is the case with the flange way gauge on the NMRA standards gauge. In my case (with the code 55s), I have been able to use a hot soldering iron and jewelers screw driver to gently move the check rail away from the outside rail. I use the soldering iron to heat the check rail, and a thin jewelers screw driver wedged between the outer rail and the check rail and a gentle twisting motion to gently move the check rail a little farther away from the outside rail. This widens the flange way slightly, but NARROWs the back to back distance from the check rail to the frog. It doesn't have to be moved far... You have to be careful, or you can pop the check rail out altogether.I have done that once... I was able to glue the check rail back in with ACC... haven't had to replace a turnout.... yet. Good luck! Dave
