I am new to model railroading, and recently received a new Athearn f-7A (Union Pacific) My biggest problem following assembly is that the brake cylinders (see image below) on the trucks get caught on the ladders. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I remove the cylinders? I don't have a layout yet, so I have not been able to test it on any curves, but I am pretty sure that as they are, they will cause operational problems. Also if anyone has any tips for detailing this loco, let me know. There is no "glass" in the windows - how do I add this? Also the round portholes on the side - do these get "glass", too? Any advice or resources specific to this loco will be greatly appreciated!
Yes those brake cylinders will hang up on the ladders. Tight curves will cause this to happen on a frequent basis. Trim a little plastic and see if that helps. Walthers makes a Superdetail kit for F units, it should be available in most hobby stores that deal with train enthusiasts. I used the clear punchouts from some plastic notebook sleaves for the porthole windows.
In regards to adding details to this loco, if you look closely there are dimples for drilling the holes for the grab irons by the cab door, the rear side doors and the rear stirrup step. The afore mentioned Walthers detail kit grab irons will fit these "dimples".
They run fine on my 24 inch radius tracks without the trucks getting stuck, don't know about 18 inches though.
I just checked out my Athearn loco and mine don't have the brake cylinders attached. It's the same loco but it came with the MRC command 2000 (DCC). Maybe they noticed the problem and stopped making them with the cylinders.
Nothing looks more like glass than glass itself, so I always replace plastic windows with microscope slide cover glass. I got mine from a friend that worked in a lab. It's .006" thick and adheres well to plastic or metal with any super glue. It's a little tricky to cut....you need a small piece of carbide ground to a VERY sharp point.
Graham, I use a diamond scribe to etch a fracture line, using a straight edge, then the slide breaks along the line like window glass.
AMB makes a good set of "glass" either scale which includes inserts for the windshields for a scale appearance. Includes ports & side cab windows @ $6. If you don't want the scale windshields then for $2 less, you can get a kit that works w/the as is shell. Saves a lot of time. To clear the steps, I cut off the rear brake cylinder extension. Don
tamu-railfan, I have removed the part of the brake cylinder, (looks like a hockey stick, you circled it in your photo) with success. It doesn't detract from the appearence and allows the truck to move a little farther, do it on both sides however. If that isn't enough you might try removing some plastic from the back of the steps, but do this as a last resort because it will weaken the steps and they will break off easier. The Walthers dress-up kit is nice, and inexpensive. It provides cab windows, port hole windows & grab irons. The grab irons are a bit too fat but they hold up to handling better than fine scale parts. 2slim
Tamu, I own several Athearn F-7's and I haven't had any problems running them on 18 inch radius curves at one time. Now all my curves are anywhere from 22 inch to 24 inch radius. So I could run my Mallets, and look true to the scale in over hang on the curves and my biggest ones show off their articulations but not to the extreme. But then it all depends on if you "set" the glue pins on the cylinders properly also.. If their not seated they have a tendency to "stick out" and hang up on the latters. Look again and see if your cylinders are tight against the truck frames.
