Hi I'm just getting started in the hobby & would like some ideas on layouts (free of course). Does anybody know of any links to some free 4 x 8 layout sites? Thanks in advance
Atlas has some layout plans on their web site in both HO and N. The most common 4 by 8 track plans are the "figure eight" and the "oval". If you were to go to N scale, it would in essence be the same as a 8 by 16 foot HO layout, therefore much more could be possible. But most people stay with HO because they like the "bigger" trains and they are easier to handle, especially for beginners.
<font color="336633">Welcome to TrainBoard shaman97! im not sure on links to sites with ideas for 8x4 layouts. im currently building a new layout and as i have not much space i got an 8x4 sheet and cut it down the middle so i just got 8x2 god enough size for a switching layout. there have been several 8x4 layouts in model railroader over the years might be worth looking in there. ------------------ Matthew wheres all the C636's???? stickymonk.com Matts Photo gallery
There is some info at www.railserve.com/ Go to model rr-layout & design info then to all gauge model rr page then to build a model rr. Hope this helps. ------------------ QFAN
Hey guys, thanks for the info - it's given me alot of ideas. Here's another question: While here, my father-in-law helped me & my son setup the train board (4 x 8). He suggested that we cement a 4 x 8 homasote board on top of the 4 x 8 plywood, which we did. It sure makes the train run quietly, but in looking at other plans & reading about them, it appears to be the standard to lay cork roadbed on top of the plywood in order to give the appearance of raising the track above the layout, and it would also provide quieting - ballast. SInce I have the homasote, it would appear that the cork roadbed would not be needed - except that the appearance of ballast is gone. So - opinions here - is the homasote a good idea, or should I still add the cork for ballast?
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by shaman97: should I still add the cork for ballast?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> <font color="336633">there is no need to add cork now, and cork dont really look like ballast but it can provide a good ballast slop for deep ballasted main lines, you still need to add the ususal granite (i think thats what it is) ballast to it, woodland scenics makes some good fine ballast in different colours so might save you having to paint it</font> ------------------ Matthew wheres all the C636's???? stickymonk.com Matts Photo gallery
When my wife and I finally built a house a train room was thoughtfully included. I started out building a large layout. It soon got the best of me and became a maintenance nightmare that probably would never have been finished. I gradually lost interest in it and finally tore it down. I found a great plan for a 4x8 layout that had a mainline, a yard, and a branch with industrial switching. I built it and have been happy with it for years. There is enough activity to satisfy me and the maintenance is very manageable. I get more enjoyment out of this layout as I can spend more time enjoying it and running trains and less time being a maintenance man. Don't let anyone shame you about 4x8's. For some of us they are a very good, logical solution. Good luck.
Yeah, its your layout, do what YOU want. We have. If you want cork, you can. If you want grey colored ballast, paint it grey with water based flat acryllic (safe) paint, it will look like ballast unless someone gets a magnafying glass to see that close. If you want to skip it, skip it. One nice thing about having the whole 4x8 covered, you can easily change your track routing at will too. The main thing, is experiment, but have fun! ------------------ Watash
In my past layouts I used cork roadbed and glued the ballest to the track. On my current layout I tried the AMI roadbed and I think it's alot easier to ballest and lay the track. The ballest "sticks" to the roadbed and saves the mess of dumping water and glue all over the track. To use it on Homesote though, you'd have to coat it with paint or something cause it won't stick well cause of the fibers in the Homesote.
Well, I've arrived at a place I'd like to call 'critical mass' - I've thought out the layout with my son (11 YO) & we've decided on a basic 4 x 8 layout called 'The Yardmaster' on the Atlas site. Seems to be enough track to satisfy the both of us, and enough of a scenery layout to satisfy the whole family (wife & daughter want to take charge of the 'home-building' aspect of the board. Got lots of ideas at the Train Show near Sacramento this weekend. Thanks for all of the ideas & encouragement.
So - opinions here - is the homasote a good idea, or should I still add the cork for ballast?[/B][/QUOTE] I use what you call homasote, over here in the UK it's called Insulation Board. Yes and I ballast the track. My ballast is a mixture of wallpaper paste and what ever browns,grey,etc I can lay my hands on. All shaken together and water added. Place it in the tracks and wait until the following day, then clean it out and it's fine. The beauty of this method is if you ever need to lift the track, all you do is wet it.
Hey Shaman97! Welcome to the trainboard! I consider it a pleasure to try and offer some words to assist you in your endeavor. With a humble heart, I offer this advice. First, please remember that the railroad you build is just that: YOURS! You have to be 100% satisfied in what you produce, and the only one whom you need to justify to is YOU! Take your time, gather as much info as you can, and start laying rail. As a diabled conductor for the C&O, I'd like to interject these thoughts. I've ridden, and walked over all types of ballast, and ground around the tracks. Main line tracks are well groomed . Regardless whether the tracks are above ground level, at ground level, or passing through a cut, or ravine, THEY ARE ALWAYS ELEVATED TO SOME DEGREE! This is done to allow adequate drainage. Many are under the misconcept that the MAIN purpose of ballast is to keep the track in place! WRONG! The main purpose is DRAINAGE! Yes, it holds the rail in place, but without the draining qualities of ballast, the right-of-ways would constantly wash out. Real right-of-way roadbeds are quite intrecate in their design, and if you could measure the height, they would be quite deep. Mainline ballast for the most part is gray, or black. Several factors will change the colors. The immediate factor is rust. Rails rust, cars rust, everything out there rusts. This produces and iron oxide dying effect. The chemical agents used in treating ties also bleeds BROWN/RUST. Kerosote has been outlawed here in the states, so alternative preservatives are used. Rain water distributes the natural course of events, and so you get the bleeding. Depending on what type of goods are hauled, depends too on what kind of stains you get. Coal dragging right-of-ways experience alot of blackening. Sometimes losts of piles of coal form from slow moving or stopped trains. This can be realistic to add! Sand! Sand mounds. HEY DIESEL GUYS! ANSWER ME THIS...WHY DOESN'T A SINGLE DIESEL EVER STOP BLEEDING ITS SAND...HUNK A JUNKS! IF I WANTED TO GO THE BEACH I WOULDA GONE TO NAGS HEAD! Branchlines are just like the main lines, just dirtier, and are not as well ballasted. Missing ties, slanted ties, junk piles, yanked up rails, switches out of service, ties piles, downed crossbucks...man you name it! The junk is out there! The right-of-way isn't as groomed as well either. Brush quite often comes right up to the ballast or ties. Railroads do not spend money unneccessarily, and branchlines are not a priority. Customer sidings are the worst. These are not maintained by the railroads but by the customer. Here is what you can expect to see. NO BALLAST SOME BALLAST TIES SUNK IN THE MUD RAILS SUNK IN THE MUD RAILS THAT LOOK LIKE SPAGHETTI TREES THAT HANG OVER TREES THAT FALL OVER REFRIGERATORS, OVENS, DISHWASHERS, CARS. FENCES SHARP TURNS AWKWARD TRACK ANGLES SWITCH STANDS DATING 40 YEARS PRIOR TO YOUR RAILROADS TIME OF OPERATION. I could go on and on and on...boom boom boom...energizer bunny...get it? Take these factors, and please use them to help in your projects. Take a disposable camera out and take pictures of the various types of rails. This way you have photo's to compare. <marquee>FELLOW MODELLERS-SPEAK UP AND LET HIME KNOW WHAT THE BALLAST IS LIKE IN YOUR NECK OF THE WORLD...WE ALL HAVE SOMETHING TO OFFER EACH OTHER!</marquee> Whatever you decide to do, remember its your railroad! Enjoy the hobby. We all need to relax. I myself use my hobby time as a personal time with the LORD, for HE has given me the blessing of being able to have models, the skills to do it, and the heart to help others! HE gives to me freely, so I now give to YOU freely! Praise HIS name forever! Best wishes, and God Bless! Randy SLSFFRISCOKID
The Yardmaster is a good choice, used the same plan myself many years ago when I first started out, later added a few alterations- kept my interest going for many years until a move allowed more space and a larger layout, good luck & have fun!
I would highly recommend a layout presented in the Atlas Custom Line pre planned railroads book. I have a 4x8 area for my portable layout. I chose the Great Eastern Trunk setup. You get two laps for continuous operation, a turntable, and a small switching yard. I'm sorry that I cannot point you to a website with the info you need, but the book is not expensive. The great things about pre-designed layouts are a good introduction into basic model railroading and more time to devote to just running those trains.
Did anyone see that 4x8 layout featured in the latest MR? Well it may not have been big on operation, the scenery was excellent... just goes to show you.
