Not to sure as i don't have Ho. I used 1/4" but you can cut it down to fit. The bad news is the construction is done for that little climax. I had the blue wire to come off the dcc chip. Then while i was trying to get at it to solder it the black wire came off. Then i noticed that one of the lights,(back Light) was backwards and that is why i couldn't get the back light to work. While i was working on that, I had a small amount of CA glue that got into the gears of that critter. That ended it for me. Thats two chassis that i bought and messed up. Not sure what i am going to do with it yet. I may just make it rotting out and falling down somewhere on the track around the engine yard. Don't care to look at it right now........
Strip the mechanism and make it a dummy unit. Have you tried to use the CA remover? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
I just made it a scene, Just not sure what colors of rust and where i want to park it yet. As for the Digitrax chip it is going back to company for repair. Originally, I was going to use a 4-4-0 and if i can get parts for it i will see if i can fix it and use it for the yard switcher. Its on the shelf right now. Needs a mess of work. Will see. I also thought of maybe another small 't' engine. I can't do that with a 4-4-0 because it has the motor in the tender. Not buying anything cheap, No lifelike or other tank motor.
I am back to the 4-4-0. I still like it. I can't put another light in it as the housing has one in it that doesn't work. Not sure i can drill out a shot LED without screwing the housing up. Won't try.I went through all the parts boxes and found all the parts for it. I have two motors for the engine. One stopped working and the other had stopped. I am going to try and take the two and make one out of it. Maybe get lucky. I can get another tender with motor for $25.00, But just want something to mess around with. If i break it no big loss! If i get it to run great. if not i am not out anything for it. It will keep me out of trouble for awhile. Dan
Ha ha. Yup. This hobby usually works well in that regard. Except possibly for $$$ trips to the hobby supplier.....
HeHe, yep. I can try i guess, I have one engine that is trying to run. I switched out the brushes. The ones in the old one were good but teh ones i had been using was cooked. So was most of the armature. So i checked out the other engine. End results is i took sand paper,(ex fine 900 grit) The brush area looks great. So brushes and it is trying to run. Now, all i need is a chip to put in it.
I spoke to soon. It started with the wide open throttle. Anything lower than that and it quit. So, I am on my way to buying a new tender with engine. Wonder why they won't sale just the motor?? I thought about trying that little kato motor but the shaft is to small for the larger u-joint! Anyway 25.00 bucks gets me a new tender. So it may get here after Christmas.........
Motor is in the tender itself. 25.00 bucks. Atlas has the basic build as Bachmann. Only thing that is really different is that Atlas has a headlight and the Bachmann don't. The locomotive for atlas is metal and the Bachmann is plastic. The Bachmann i used the hand rails to run power to the light. The light connects to the hand rails and then in the cab you have to grind out the loco weight so you can place a resister for the light. Then i use like 30 gauge wire to make the connection from the handrails inside the cab and to the dcc chip on the top of the motor in the tender. Pretty cool when it works. I lost the headlight about 6 months or so. It just stopped working. The dcc chipset sits right on top of the motor and then i made it a wood burner. All kinds of split logs on it to cover the dcc chip. I think it ran like 2 years and then it started acting weird. It would keep running when i stopped the engine with the throttle. Change directions and it wouldn't change directions. I think that part was the dcc chip itself. But it stopped all the way and i took it apart and then the motor running like dc, It wouldn't run at all. So i think the chip went bad and harmed the engine it self. Thats the only thing that makes any sense. I will get another tender and do a new chip on it and see how it works. There is a u-tube somewhere that shows how to do it on the 4-4-0's. i will check and see if i can find it. Later, Dan
Dan, thanks for the information. I follow your thread since the beginning with great interest. Good work! Franz
That little motor is from the chassis i got from Kato for the climax i was building.Wish i could have got that little motor to work in the 4-4-0.
Almost forgot, I haven't been able to find that U-tube in the decoder and light for that 4-4-0. It should have been in my bookmarks but haven't been able to find it yet.
Wow, I found a great blunder. I can't figure out what is happening. The track from the main line has power till it hits the next turnout. Then Nothing. No power in teh sawmill yard. After the two sawmill turnouts i have power. The track up to the logging camp works perfect. The main line works ok, The tracks and turnouts that are in the engine area have power. So woo woo woo???? I have a short video showing what it looks like. Any ideas??? Dan
Is there power in the yard itself? Maybe you sprayed some scenery cement in the area and the tracks need cleaned? Seems unlikely since it is affecting only a turnout though. Did you use insulated unijoiners, terminal unijoiners, or regular? Maybe it is a feeder wire issue. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
If you are depending on the points to transfer power to the rails...use some fine sandpaper or an emory stick to clean the point rails on that middle turnout. Paint...ballast...gunk....glue...anything against the tip of the points or on nthe rail where the points touch is gonna kill track power in that area...JMO My wife gives me her slightly used emory boards she uses for her fingernails. They last awhile for cleaning turnout points.
Another thing to check>>>>> The bar with the small screw that holds the point rails down. Unscrew that screw and carefully lift the bar. Clean the bottom of the bar and the small pad it sets on. Gunk can get under there also. When you go to screw the points back down...dont overtighten the screw ! Do small adjustments until the points just move freely side to side. Afterthought>>>> That is on #6's....I dont see the screw and bar on a #4...hmmmmmmm.
Its working now. Has a mind of its own i guess. Didn't really do anything to it. It was working last week but then the other day i was working on the track up to the logging camp and it just quit. I am also looking at another track issue now. In two places i have tracking popping up. Check both. connected tight but in two places it has a piece of the rail lifting up say a scale foot. Not to sure what is causing that. The track was laid down when it was hot and humid. Now with cooler climes you wouldn't think that would be a issue. I am wondering if foam covered with plaster with unitrax would do that. I found both when i turned the trains around running over the same piece there is two places that when the engine hits the cow-catcher hangs on it. Tires and wheels keep spinning. If it were not for the hang up i wouldn't have noticed. I have been fighting a bug for a couple of weeks now. Last night i ended up at the hospital. I got pneumonia. So i am on some pretty hard stuff right now. I have at last night cracked 6 ribs from coughing. Last night i was coughing a lot and hurting the ribs and getting some blood in the spittle. That is when the other half called 911. I don't feel like much right now.With what they gave me, if it doesn't heal then they want me back at the hospital. So if i go off line you will know. I got the dcc chip back from digitrax today when deb went to the mailbox today. I also sent the order for the motor at Bachmann. Maybe by the time i get rid of this cold the motor will be here. Check in later, I am gettng really tired. Dan
