Help With My New Track Plan

modernnscale Jan 24, 2015

  1. modernnscale

    modernnscale New Member

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    Hey folks. So Im returning to model railroading after a 6 year hiatus. I started on a Woodlands Scenic Scenic Ridge layout in 2008 and havent had time to work on it since. I have since scrapped practically the entire layout other than the 3 x 6 benchwork.

    I will be using Kato Unitrack this time around and have pretty much settled on a simple layout with switching in the back. I was a bit inspired by the Salt Lake Route and Red Oak Route layout projects from MRR magazine.

    Here is my current trackplan. After a visit to the local hobby shop today, I was told that the spur that slips off and into the backdrop would be very problematic in terms of operation, because its basically a reverse loop. I was hoping to run a train through the backdrop and around.

    I was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions? Im open to any ideas. Would love to get this thing rolling! trackplan-terrain.jpg
     
  2. Chris1274

    Chris1274 TrainBoard Member

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    I don't see why it should be "very problematic." Reverse loops require some special attention, but nothing that daunting. Are you using DC or DCC?
     
  3. modernnscale

    modernnscale New Member

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    Hmm. He told me it would likely short out and any other trains would be reversed? He basically told me to scrap this idea and come up with something new.

    I have an old DC power unit but was considering moving to DCC. Some people have told me its overkill on a small layout like mine. Do you suggest DCC?
     
  4. Maletrain

    Maletrain TrainBoard Member

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    DCC willmake the reversing loop easier to USE, but wiring will be about the same. The difference is that, with DCC, you only need to reverse the wiring to the small section running between the loops, so it doesn't affect the other trains anywhere. For DC, you need to reverse the rest of the layout (or at least the inner loop if the outer loop is in a separate control block) and keep the part the train is on the same polarity so that the train will not reverse. The difference is that track polarity controls the direction of a DC engine, while the on-board digital contoller controls the direction when DCC is used.

    As for your old DC controller: if it is very old, you probably should not try to use it for n-scale DC operation. But, you said "6 years", so maybe yours is OK. Do a little research to be sure before exposing a new n scale DC engine to it. My old 1970s HO verson of a MRC throttle was putting out WAY too much voltage and AC component for modern small DC motors.

    Because DCC lets you control speed as well as direction independently for trains on the same track, you can even run 2 trains around the same loop at the same time with DCC by adjusting them to the same speed. (But watch in case one has a problem and stops, like a derail, or slowly gains on the other.)

    If you don't already have DC engines, I suggest that you start with DCC and not look back.

    As for wiring the reversing section, you need to isolate a section in the middle and use a double-pole/double throw switch to reverse polarity in it. That keeps the train from creating a short when the engine wheels span the gap. You are matching the rail polarity across the insulated gap that will be crossed by the engine before it gets crossed, rather than affecting engine direction. If you have other cars with metal wheels, it is better to have 3 insulated sections, each at least as long as your longest car. Then, you use a quadruple-pole/double-throw switch to not only reverse polarity of the center insulated section, but to power and unpower the sections next to it so that there is always a dead section between the sections that have opposite polarity. That prevents a metal wheel on a car from spanning the gap between polarities and causing a short. It will also stop an engine from going across the polarity change until you have linged things up properly (unless our put one of those "keep alive" super-capacitors in the engine so that it will run for a while even after being taken off the rails).

    I hope this cleared things up for you.
     
  5. Chris1274

    Chris1274 TrainBoard Member

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    No question about it. The only reason I can think of to go with DC is if you've already got a layout that's wired that way and don't want the hassle of converting. Since you're starting a new layout, DCC is the only way to go.
     
  6. modernnscale

    modernnscale New Member

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    Thanks for the help folks! You guys are really, really helpful and I greatly appreciate it!

    I went ahead and did away with the loop. I understand I could make it work with a bit of wiring work, but honestly its more wiring work than I want to do. I'd rather spend the time on the parts of the hobby I truly enjoy, like scenery and scratch-built structures. This will be my second attempt at the same layout (actually the only thing that now remains of the original layout is the benchwork. Ive since changed everything), so I actually want to finish this time.

    I went ahead and modified the track plan. I took some inspiration from the Manning Oaks trackplan on KATO's site, in addition to my other inspirations -- the Red Oak & Salt Lake Route project layouts. trackplan-modified.jpg
     
  7. DrMb

    DrMb TrainBoard Member

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    So why do you have a passing siding when you have a double track mainline?
     
  8. modernnscale

    modernnscale New Member

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  9. DrMb

    DrMb TrainBoard Member

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    Fair enough. It's just that a passing siding when you have a double track mainline is basically pointless and takes up valuable space.
     
  10. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Unless....

    You have a dblxover...which he does...and a train can crossover into oncoming traffic. The oncoming train can get in the siding while the other does whatever it needs to by crossing over. Especially usefull if running DCC. A 'cornfield meet' is just plain ugly.....

    ;)
     
  11. modernnscale

    modernnscale New Member

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    Ahh.. Youre right. I may try to figure out a clever way to incorporate it, otherwise I'll just get rid of it. Although I have already purchased the expensive KATO track.
     
  12. modernnscale

    modernnscale New Member

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    Hmmm that may be just the ideal situation and I think I may end up keeping it, then. I did invest in that double-crossover. And geez, those Unitrack crossovers don't come cheap.
     
  13. DrMb

    DrMb TrainBoard Member

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    Except that the crossover is in the wrong spot for that. A train should be able to go from the inner mainline to the siding without having to "make a lap" on the outer mainline. Also, it would be best if that kind of move could be made from both ends of the siding.

    It's just simpler to eliminate the siding and plan the crossovers and industrial spurs so that the "local" and the "run through" can swap mainlines without getting in each others way. Of course, I'm assuming that the siding isn't used to service an industry or two when I say that.
     
  14. modernnscale

    modernnscale New Member

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    The siding will be used to serve a small passenger station.
     

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