You might try browsing out "How To" Forum. Possibly something posted there. I know some fellows have used plastic bread sack clips as shims to superelevate.
I've seen articles before where people have used masking tape or manila folders to create this. Added benefit of making it easy to create a smooth transition in and out of the superelevation.
Superelevation may look cool, but the way the laws of physics scale, it may reduce the length of trains you can use in n-scale. It makes it more likely that the center of trains will derail due to "stringing" on the curve. That is especially true with long trains or trains with drag on the wheels to due to electical pickups, say wipers on a caboose.
As far as string lining trains in N scale, I have not experienced that myself. I've superelevation on my layout that uses 13.75 and 12.25 radius curves and have run up to 40 car trains on it(it's only 12 ft in length) without problems. The club layout our group is building has it on a couple of curves that are on 2% grades of 24" radius and folks have run pretty much anything and everything on it with no problems. I've heard this from others as well. It's bound to have happened somewhere I am sure.
I have curves as small as 13" radius,no problem with 60+ car trains..My benchwork,however,is dead flat,no grades on the mains.I just sand in superellevation & trasnsitions with a sanding block and 80 grit sandpaper when I sand my roadbed..
In N Scale using any type of track you just shim the outer rail 2/32 of an inch very gradually using thin styrene strips. Shimming the outer rails greatly enhances the performance of steam locomotives as well by improving the tracking of the front pilot truck and the rear trucks of steam locomotives along with the visual effect of the locomotive traveling through the curved radii. This is a very interesting concept and will add to the visual effect of watching your locomotive and rolling stock on your layout. Have fun with it. Shades
By far the most comprehensive guide on how to super elevate curves in N-scale, http://csxdixieline.blogspot.com/2009/04/howto-superelevate-track.html Courtesy of Train Board's own Jamie (csxdixieline)
My understanding of superelevation on the 1:1 US railroads...the max elevation of the outer rail can only be 6" higher then the inside rail. At 2/32 thats 10 inches. 1/32 would be 5 inches...closer to proto superelevation. Just sayin ;-)
This is the method I used. http://rgwrail.com/SuperElev.pdf I have since moved the inside siding a bit farther from the mains to allow for more space from the inward leaning trains. Brian
I use masking tape under the outside rail. The auto parts store sells tape that is 1/4" wide used for paint masking. I start with one layer in approach to the curve and building up to 3 layers in the curve.
+1 on styrene strips. I've used a combination of .020" and .030". Just cut into 1-1.5" long strips and glue in place with Elmer's white glue. Paint them the roadbed color and they blend in when you ballast. If it were me, I'd shy away from any kind of tape. The adhesive wears out and becomes gummy after a while, especially when it's mixed with water from the ballast. Right now, I'm using Kato's super elevated double-track. Looks and operates just great, plus it can be ballasted quite easily.
I am modeling in HO scale and have super elevated all of my curves. Being a larger scale, I used strips of poster board to elevate the outer rails. My minimum radius on the main line is 32 inches and haven't had any derailments due to the super elevation with one exception. I have a curve on a 2 percent grade and can easily pull a 60+ car train up the grade using multiple units. I like the looks of it. Here's my exception. All of my flat cars it turns out have sprung Kadee trucks and I found out that if the camera, which is a bit heave for an HO car wasn't perfectly balanced, when it was on a super elevated curve, it had enough weight to depress the springs on the trucks and would end up rolling down a hill. Took a few tries to get it balanced correctly.
I used .010 inch by .010 inch Evergreen styrene strips glued to the tie strip under the outside rail. This is on Atlas Code 80 track, 19 inch radius. The effect is really just scenic, and doesn't really belong on a shortline like my Wilmington and New York, but I like it. I thought I had a decent photo of the effect in the archives, but I don't... something else to add to the queue...
Used styrene strips. would worry slightly about the stability of maksing tape, although, once ballasted in probably wouldn't be a huge problem. It's just that in N, any wobble is so much more noticeable. Agree to under do it rather than over do it, using perhaps 0.1 strips at start and max 0.2 in middle of curve. Maybe tape first, and then 0.1 or 0.15 (if available) Looks great, not hard to do, and contrary to a few opinions, should do nothing but enhance operations as well as looks.
