Question about Rail Yards and separate tracks

Hi Everyone, Getting back into the hobby after lots of years, I hope this isn't too dumb of a question. I am setting up a Kato train layout and I am going to just have simple oval for now with a side track for a yard. I want to keep extra engines and cars on that track. Also will have another oval in the future either inside the first oval or outside. I will probably have a crossover track so I can use both. How do I isolate these tracks so I can run one train on one set of tracks and keep the others from not running? I know its probably simple but had to ask. Thanks Robert

 

Thanks for the info, for now I am only doing analog DC until I get into it more. I will have to get a DCC transformer and all that. The engines i have now are older and are dc, I would have to buy new engines for dcc unless I modify these. Any other suggestions would be helpful. I will have to remember your other thing you said. I can keep them isolated but when I switch that switch, they will all start going that are in the siding.

 

It is getting easier and easier to put decoders into the older locomotives, so don't let that concern you.

When you move to DCC, the toggle switches can all be left in the "On" position unless it is a reversing situation.

 

Hi Robert. Welcome aboard Trainboard. I usually tend to make quite long posts. I'll try not to here as you are not far enough along yet to be concerned with the heavier topics of MRRing. So, trying not to be too intrusive of your ideas, I do wish to say that, If you (IF) you do have enough funds to buy a DCC throttle and at least 1 DCC engine, I see no reason a grown person such as you need to start first with DC (analog) just because it 'seems' simpler. Since you implied you are eventually going to get a digital throttle anyway (not called a transformer), why not just go there right away? I'm in HO. I use an NCE PowerCab throttle ('command control' [or 'command center']). It's about $150. I have 3 DCC locos/W sound. One is a Bachmann RS3 (road switcher, 3rd series). You can find these on Ebay (top of this page) for even less, brand new/with sound. Be careful here; if ad says 'DCC/Sound ' you are getting everything (which is what you want). Anything else either has no decoder at all; 'DCC Ready' and means you still need to by and plug in your own decoder ($45 more and later install a speaker ! ). Next level is 'DCC On Board' means engine is completely ready to run with a DCC throttle, but no sound. To me, dick docking with these ain't worth the hassle. Now, once you are outfitted with the state of the art for what, $100-150 more it actually gets easier to build a MRR, wiring-wise because, except for reverse loops, wyes and turntables, you need not wire or gap much of anything else; especially on a small to medium sized layout. The fun really kicks in when you have a 2nd DCC/sound loco. This is because the real virtues of DCC come into play; the independence of locos on same track just like the real one. So much so that you can even have a head on collision if you're not minding the 2 trains. Plus, the 2-6 engines are stored by their addresses (usually the number painted on the cab) in a 'select' button right in your hand... Then the myriad of programming features such as light on/off, bell, whistle, horn [3 different choices], momentum levels, idling sounds, coupler striking noise, steam chuffs and chuff rate [sync up chuffs to wheel revs], rod clank, water tank noises........on and on...throw switches, signals, and accessories [called 'macros'] from throttle....
It's just that obvious how much much more you have, right from the get go. Having this does not prevent you from developing better skills any more than your DC analog equipment. It just brings you to the level you'll want to be at eventually anyway. So, why not now ? ! (see, I told you I was going to keep it simple ! ! ).....Mark

 

When you say you are "setting up a Kato train layout"...does this mean you are you going to be using Unitrack ? If so...Kato Unitrack turnouts are power routing. What that means is simple....the track the points are set to is powered. Flip it to the siding...the siding is powered. Once a train is 'in the siding' flip the turnout back to the main and the siding is now unpowered. Nothing on the siding will move until you flip the turnout back to that siding.

Beats using toggle switches.... ;-)

 

Engines - Plural, and you just want to keep them out and available?
Me? I Would:
Insulate the several tracks as Boxcab suggested if you want to wire them. It would be a good practice run @ simple wiring.
or
Just layout the track but not connect it. You might even take the joiners off and space the track. When swapping engines out use your hand.

 

If your getting back into the hobble I would go with DCC, I was a little intimidated at first and after alot of questions and help from guys on the broad I'm glad I did! Made wiring so much easier.

 

Thanks for all the info. I have been doing a lot of reading on this. I like the DCC where you can run more than one loco. Once I get my track set up in running I will get some DCC on board loco's. I was looking at the NCE Powercab system. That looks like a nice system. I do have 2 DC loco's and they say careful with running them on DCC systems. I can run them in the meantime till I get the DCC. I bought the Kato starter set track with siding and rail yard and it comes with a throttle pack. Witch is good so I didn't spend money on loco's and cars. I could always sell that and the track will be fine. So thanks again and let me know if you have anymore thoughts on this. I am always open for ideas and suggestions.

 

Yes you are correct. It will be the unitrack from Kato. If this is the case and I go with a DCC system I will have to put power to the rail yard tracks if I want to run loco's there to move cars around. Correct me if I am right or wrong on this. Thanks

 

Yes...you are correct...if you plan to move locomotives around in the yard while running a train on the main loop. Then you will need to power the track that comes off the diverging leg of the turnout thats on the main track.

 

I do have another question. I have a Kato track plan that has a double cross over track. It says it needs 5 terminal joiners. 4 of them at the double crossover track but none at any of the sidings/railyards. I am assuming one is for the power to the whole track. can I put terminal unijoiners at all the rail yards. Not sure why you wouldn't want too. It is the Manning Oaks Track Plan. if you are familiar with it. Thanks Robert

 

I think your best bet is to still separate the yard from the main with a set of isolator Unijoiners. Then wire the main and yard into two districts, with a toggle switch on the yard feed. You do this so you don't constantly have power going to the yard when you aren't running locomotives on it but just have them parked on it. Doubly useful if you go DCC with sound in your locos, unless you want all your sound locos making idling noise all the time your track has power.
Additionally, relying solely on the power routing of the turnouts to power the yard means you always have to have the switch into the yard from the main thrown, so no running a train on the main while running another in the yard.

 

If you are planning on using ( A ) ( B ) and ( C ) as storage tracks...I would insulate at the turnout and power the spurs seperately. You could use toggle switches to turn power on and off on the spurs. If you plan on using those tracks (in and out)...as in a industry...while running a train on the other main...dont insulate them. The points on Unitrack are quite good at routing power. The double crossover ( X )...I would use 8 regular Unitrack connectors... once again the points on Unitrack are quite good at routing power thru the double crossover.

Thats JMHO...YMMV.

 

Thanks for the info, you know where to get the isolator unijoiners, i looked around but haven't found any yet. Robert

 

Scratch that, I just found them, thanks

 

I have an idea and thought maybe you could confirm. If I want power to the siding at certain times. Can I just put a terminal unijoiner on the mainline and then one on the siding with a toggle switch in the middle so I can turn the power on and off to the track. I know Kato has these I would just have to modify them and do a little splicing witch is no big deal. Let me know if this will work. Thanks

 

Yup, that was my suggestion to a T.

 

Sorry about all the questions, I did have another question and I forgot to ask it, Do I have to isolate both rails or just one with power and one without and a toggle switch in the middle to put power to that one rail? Not sure if this makes sense. Thanks Robert