Code 55 may have destroyed my interest in N-scale forever

It took me a long time to put it together and as soon as I got one loop done I used alligator clips to power it up and do a test run.

[video=youtube;j_f5UxeOysg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_f5UxeOysg[/video]

 

OK, that's just one loco.
Did you then test it with a complete train and in both directions?

 

I don’t know where you’re going with this, but I did run some cars behind and I didn’t really have a problem with the cars. The majority of the problems showed up with the heavy steamers although my 86’ Auto Part Cars had some difficulty.





Anyway I’m growing tired of the 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] degree and in my opinion the Atlas Code 55 is crap. I think it’s great that some of you like it, but for me it’s just not worth it.

 

I don't use Atlas code 55, so I'm not trying to support it any way.
Just trying to determine if you put down all the track before you tested any of it and then found a bunch of problems.
Whatever brand and code of track you choose, you're better off laying a small section, testing it with your most trouble prone locos and cars, finding and fixing any issues and only then moving on to the next section.

 

Well believe me I did not just up and did this on a whim. I sought advice every step of the way on both TrainBoard and a couple of other forums. I made daily posts of my progress with questions all the way. Plus I had already done cork roadbed on a previous layout where I made many mistakes and had plenty of experience repairing it all, so I really didn’t consider myself a novice. And yes I did test every turnout especially after the the first one failed. The turnouts didn't fail immediately and some would take a month while other were a couple of months

 

Before you give up on this layout, I'd suggest identifying exactly how many underperforming turnouts/switches you have right now and contacting Atlas about replacing them - especially since new shipments of track are finally arriving. You could also PM Paul Graf via this forum. In a previous post someone mentioned Jerry Britton, an early adopter of Atlas code 55 who ran into many problems with a much larger layout several years ago. At the time, Atlas seemed willing to work with him to replace any defective track pieces, but Jerry apparently couldn't quite bring himself to rip up and relay so much track. In your case, maybe you'd be willing to give it a try.

 

Johnny:

I remember you really enjoyed your Unitrack layout way back when..... Why don't you go back to it. Unitrack has fewer issues than code 55 and in the end, you'll enjoy running your trains. Code 55 doesn't work for everybody. So I think you have some decisions to make regarding the direction you'll take.


Shades

 

It’s been about 2 years since I gave up on it and except for some photos I’ve posted looking for help I’ve forgotten everything. I would have to clean the dust of off it and fire it up to identify all the problems. I also knocked off a couple of servos on the last move from storage that needs fixed before I can do anything although I guess I could manually switch some turnouts like I did when I was testing trains through the turnouts before I installed the servos.
Atlas did replace 2 or 3 turnouts if I remember correctly, but too much time might have passed by now for any replacements.

I do need to start up the Unitrack just to get back into it. I spent so much time on the Code 55 that I never got a chance to add any landscaping. I did manage to make some modification to the layout, but I don't seem to have any photos. Here is an old video of the Unitrack

[video=youtube;146fXBPlhl4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=146fXBPlhl4[/video]

 

Posting about this situation two years after the fact is a bit curious.
Is the intention a last ditch effort seeking help, a hope that someone would commiserate or just an opportunity to vent???

 

There would be about 50% less threads on Train Board if Peco made their code 55 track with North American tie spacing and hboy:turnout geometry.

 

This thread is sure getting a lot of feedback!

There are guys here giving very good advice on how to successfully build reliable track work with c55 flex. There are also people who have had problems and swear by Unitrack.

I don't know if there is a pattern to it but I see a lot of photos with pink instead of plywood. My layout is 5/16 plywood on 1 by 4s, glued and screwed and solid enough to hold my weight. I have never seen most of the issues in those scary photos but I can sure see how bending and twisting benchwork might cause many of them.

Maybe the key is, if you have solid benchwork then flex track and Atlas c55 turnouts will work fine if you take the time and sweat the details when you lay it. But with a moveable foam unit, the only way I can think of to make it solid is to build it on a hollow core interior door. If you can't start with a solid base then maybe Unitrack is the only way to go. Each Unitrack piece is stiff enough to stay flat, so any stress from flexing is focused on the joints. I guess they handle it just fine?

 

I started this thread to vent some frustration and surly not for any advice on repair. I’ve already been there done that. I guess I thought maybe there just might be a tiny chance that I might rekindle a spark in trying to get this going again, but I’m just too angry over the wasted time and money (especially the money). I started this in the spring of 2010 and spent two whole years fooling with it.

Well I decided to get the thing out of the house and stick it behind the shed in the back yard to get it out of my sight and make room for something else. I’ll take another look at it when I retire next year and pull off the electronics to see if I can salvage anything.


I’m not the destructive type, but if nothing else maybe I’ll have a bond fire and be done with it.:teeth:

 

My benchwork is all 1X4 open framework with 2" foam on top,no plywood,ETC,under it.There are additional layers making upper levels that make it more rigid....I'm a BIG guy,if I'm careful,it will hold me.It weighs nothing,and it's bullet proof.The great thing about foam is,it's absolutely dimensionally stable,not in any way affected by temperature or moisture...

 

I think you left out a third category, which likely includes many on here (myself included). These are folks who understand how to build reliable code 55 track work, and are able to do so, but choose to use UniTrack simply because they don't enjoy "investing" a lot of time in track work. My current double loop shelf layout is all code 55, and I've never had a derailment. The track looks great and the broad curves (24" R plus) look great. That said, I'm planning to replace it with a 100% UniTrack approach beginning next year.

 

Johnny,

If it helps you at all you just described my last 50 years in the hobby. I've spent years of what I felt was wasted time. Never mind the cost and what I went through to raise the money for my layouts as a kid. I almost left the hobby. On the flip-side. Not all was a waste and what I learned got built into my present layout. Like others here, I want a solid base for my subroadbed and track. One of the reasons you see me using not plywood but particle board. I want my track tacked and glued down as in permanent. Never mind the track laying skills I had to learn and perfect. My layout suffers very little from expansion and contraction. I did build expansion and contraction gaps into the overall construction and I see little to no movement. No foam for me. I did try that and gave up on as I couldn't find any glue (at the time) that would cause anything to bond to it. I hear they've perfected that and Liquid Nails does a nice job.

Now some guys boo hoo Peco, with all kinds of interesting observations and alleged misgivings. The Code 80 Peco switches serve me just fine. I like the electrofrog, larger radius curves by far better then anything Kato or Atlas puts out. You'll find them all over my layout. Downside, I won't put in switch machine under my layout. I've spent to many hours standing on my head. So, I use hand throws. My mainline has the Kato #6 switches and I'm not a happy camper about that. The diverging side of the switch, has a curve that in my opinion sweeps out to far. A #7 or #8 would serve me better. Upside Kato has the solenoid switch machine hidden in the roadbed of the track. Downside if it gives out I have to replace the whole switch as it's a solid unit.

Code 80. Besides... when I sit track side looking at the humongous welded rail I see my code 80 track and wonder. Has anyone actually done a comparison of the two? Is one not the prototype of the other? I'm looking for operating results and have been real happy with my techniques and procedures I use to lay track. I've been accused of being anal but my model railroad runs better then the layout my accuser built. To fix his I would have be more then just anal...constipated comes to mind. Dumb a$$ also comes to mind...to even think of attempting to fix it.

Go to my signature and click on BarstowRick.com. Then look for track laying tips and other interesting posts on venting and lamenting on my part. You will find you aren't alone. I think the best stuff is in September's Archives. It's a birthday gift from my daughter's husband. Kind of hard to get around in it and the last page is actually the first page. I just work there I don't explain it.

Oh, and that tin shed of mine. It was below freezing in there this morning. Global warming my A$$. The latest fad/religion of the green ones. All for protecting the environment but I'm not going to freeze or starve to death, just to please them.

Just remember wider curves are the best curves. Just in case you end up starting all over. Should I add? Solid bench-work is the best bench-work.

A friend in Big Bear Country.

 

Well,I'll tell you what..If you're trying to make this portable,you need more substantial benchwork than that for a railroad that size..At least 1X2 for the crosspieces,and 1X4 for the sides.As is,it would flex when you grab one corner or the other,and from your description of stuff popping when you pick it up,that's just what it's doing..And you guys can talk plywood all you want,it's 10X more rigid with 2" foam on top..I'm working on a 2X4 logging railroad that foam glued to wood,it's indestructable,and probably weighs 10 pounds as it sits in the pic..For portability,once you add heavy stuff like plywood,you need to make the actual benchwork equally heavy to withstand the torsional stress of moving it.

 

Add my name to the list of Unitrack users. I'm using it on my HCD layout and all that I've had to do is keep it clean. If I were to switch to C55, I'd probably go for Peco. That choice is based on what Barstow Rick mentioned, I have a lot of older equipment that I want to continue to run and I spent my hard earned money to get it and I also collect Japanese prototype equipment that has the larger flanges on it. A friend gave me some Atlas C55 flex and a couple of switches and man, that stuff looks delicate! I'd say go with what makes you happy and gets your trains out of the boxes!

 

Well I think I’m going for a whole new layout to replace the Code 55. It a modified version of my 2009 7x10 L shaped without industry as I originally planed.

The top right side module is all Kato Unitrack and the Left side is a combination of Unitrack and Code 80 Flex. This is only the preliminary plan with the left side still in the planning stage. I deleted the industry except for the yard service area and will be working on more of a country screen with rolling hills. I will try to replace the code 80 flex track with Kato Super Elevated curves if I can fit it in.

 

I'm not trying anything, its already a done deal. I have carried this thing up and done stairs and through door ways at least a 100 times and surprisingly enough it held up pretty good except for the occasional knocking off a servo or two.

I do wish I would have used 1x4s but not because I thought it would be stronger. The 1x4s would have protected the bottom electronics and servos better.

The Kato layout was made exactialy the same and I actualy droped it down the stairs and the track did jar lose from the shock but the frame remained intact.