Hi, I think I asked this a long time back but forget and can't locate replies : Do I assume in order to prevent this I will have to replace ALL my metal axle and/or metal wheels with plastic ones ? I like the rolling and gravitational quality of the metal wheels. I finally got the one (large, under track) Kadee magnet I need thus far, installed and level in every direction in a rear spur. Uncoupling is working very good now. But coming out of spur the pesky unwanted uncoupling happens. Instead of replacing all these metal components is there a substance that will block the magnetism which might be painted on wheel backs and axles ? Yes, I am aware of the electronic uncouplers. Of course another approach could be to set up the only 2-5 cars that ever go into this spur with all plastic; never push any others past this magnet.
The magnet may be too strong. reset the magnet lower under the track. The metal wheels should be Nickel Silver like the rail with only the axle being steel. The non metallic wheels you would want to use are the molded one piece plastic wheelsets. Having a few cars with them shouldn't cause any problems.
Reply appreciated. But I was always told magnet must be right up against bottom of ties, that any lower and it won't uncouple. Also, what you claim about metal wheels, and though it's what I prefer, I've heard many times the metal has to be gone if I plan to keep using the magnet..
You might try KADEE wheelsets, they work well with the magnets...since the same company makes them both. KADEE wheelsets have plastic axles and metal wheels. Woodie
Another thing is the weight in the cars. Sometimes the weight is too close to the ends of the cars and will be attracted to the magnet and cause the unscheduled uncoupling. I have one of those magnets on a module and I have the same problem. I did remove the metal plate that came with the magnet. It is supposed to amplify the magnetic field from the magnet. Metal railings on the ends of cabooses do the same thing.
I just installed several of these "super magnets" under ME Code 70 track and they work well. The key to preventing undesired uncoupling is to keeping the train "stretched" while pulling over the magnets. The uncoupling action only works when there is slack in the couplers. The smaller magnets that fit in between the rails can also result in undesired uncoupling, if there is slack. Incidently, I only use these magnets on industrial sidings, where using the Kadee uncoupling pick is difficult. I do not use them on main running tracks. As far as wheels are concerned. I have been replacing plastic wheel sets with metal sets on an "as required" basis. However, stock Athearn BB wheel sets have plastic wheels mounted on metal axles. The magnets will sometimes pull the car to the center of the magnet, which is kind of weird:headspin: looking. I have been using both Kadee wheel sets and Walthers Proto, recently, I picked up a couple of packs of Intermountain Brass wheel sets. It should be interesting to see how these work out.
Thanks for all replies. To keep couplers taught I have to 'floor it' from 5mph to like 40 !! I think I'll do what I said; correct only the few cars which need ever go into this spur (also in rear/hard to reach) using Kadee wheel sets. Thanks, Mark
Addendum to above: I have a couple of those narrow magnets which go above or level with ties. How are they installed in Atlas Code 83 ? Spiking each end doesn't leave enough clearance. Do I remove ties completely and glue/spike it to cork ? I'm thinking they were made when it was all code 100, no ? Anyway, will the false uncoupling stop ?
Try it on a piece of scrap track. You may have to shave the ties somewhat thinner. That is why I do not use magnets, but I also do not have any track I can't reach.
Mark, Just a thought, but this sounds a lot like a track that has an elevation change or bow. Our maybe there is a tail wind? Got to be something that is producing this amount of slack. Bob
No, I just did a correcting of the sub-roadbed ply under magnet to be level N/S, E/W about 10-12" from either end of Mag. I'm beginning to think it's what 'retsign' (above) says about the weights inside cars. I visited the great old, huge Highland Park MRR club last night and they have hundreds of the between rail Mags which all work spot on.. Maybe the ticket is getting rid of the big 'under ties' Mag, getting the 'between rails' Mag. installed after shaving down the Atlas 83 ties a tad, and getting off my arse and balance cars, change to Kadee wheels and get all the pins uniform already already !! Maybe then I'll quit sguawkin'... MH
Just a thought here. Instead of installing anything further on your layout, consider building a test track segment on some scrap wood, to fiddle with on your work bench. Put an under track magnet and a between rails in the track, then test car weights, drag springs etc. Once you get an idea of what will do the job as needed, then transfer what knowledge to the layout.
Guys, don't labor over my hassle any more. All is appreciated. I'll figure it out with one of the methods. BTW, the Highland Park MRRC in San Gabriel is a 'have to see' if you're in L.A. In private owned house 52 years. All steel rail hand laid. They have a curved double crossover in 60 block main !
