I'm using SCARM, pretty cool program. The problem is I have no idea what track parts are needed to make the sidings, ect. Is there a cheat sheet that helps a newbie figure out which track pieces are needed to get the geometery correct? Screen shot of what I'm trying to do ( red lines of what Im' trying to accomplish ). You can also see my siding isn't complete.
Go with flex track, it will free you from the bonds of sectional track. You can lay in what you need and then trim it to length. If this sounds scary, it's actually a lot easier than it may seem. Get a pair of Xuron rail nippers and a small jewelers file to clean up the ends of the rail after cutting. Atlas track nails will hold the track in place unless you've decided to go Styrofoam and then you'll need glue. I do not recommend the glue route because once the glue has set you are stuck; with nails you can pull them out with needle nose pliers and take another shot if things aren't right. Glue comes later after you are satisfied with the track geometry when you apply ballast.
I am planning on Styrofoam, so I can carve out dips/valleys/ect. I really don't want to mess with flex track.
Hi! looks to me that 3 curved track will bring you out to between the top red line and the middle red line. Then switches would take you below the middle line. Have fun! Jim
I don't savvy your problem... Are you referring to the coordinates where 53 and 120 cross ? Anyway, I too, unless you are really sold on sectional track, would use flex track. Yes, Xuron rail nippers. you'll need to mark the rails with a pencil where you'll need to cut it. NOTE THIS: it matters which side of the Xuron faces toward the good piece you're going to use. The flatter side of 'jaws' face the good track you're going to lay in, not the concaved side of jaws...You will immediately see the difference. You'll also need to remove 2-3 crossties at both ends of good piece to allow rail joiners to slip on ends. Put track upside down and Xacto off the 2-3 ties at ends. But first lay flex on top of or next to existing track ends you want to fill gap at for you to mark length you're creating..It gets much easier a job once you've gotten the hang of it . I like to use spikes to hold it until I ballast. Then after ballast dries can easily remove the spikes. Mark
it all depends on what distance you wish to have between track centers (center to center distance) which is roughly based on how sharp or broad your curved radius is. then, again, in a ladder like yard or siding, it again depends on center to center distance as to what length you place between each set of turnouts, and what final angle and radius curve you use to bring the last track to parallel with the other yard siding tracks. basically we need more information on what you are trying to achieve and what you already have, and what track you are using for the turnouts as each has its own degree of frog angle and radius of curve coming off the straight. please add more info as noted. sincerely, Gary
Jim, (et al)... To amplify the advice of others here regarding flex track, it is truly key to achieving what you are planning with the least amount of difficulty in the initial planning, revisions to your plan during installation and the overall ease in completing a realistic, trouble-free installation...As in prototypical railroads, dips, valleys, etc., (as you term them) should not be a consideration for laying a solid and appropriately appearing roadbed for your track...You have to get above, over or around those landscape difficulties and when you have the advantage of creating a multitude of radii for the curved sections of sidings, branches and stubs as well as cross-overs, and the track that is connected to turnouts within a crowded landscape, yards, industrial parks, etc., flex track will be your friend...The 36-inch lengths are a dream to install because you can temporarily position them with bulletin board push-pins and have a look to see how the chosen position interfaces with the track, turnouts, bridges crossings or whatever is ahead (and behind) for your layout as initially planned and then cut the length exactly as needed ...The simplicity of creating easements, minor adjustments, left or right, or adding a gentle S-curve within a "block" can make a huge difference in the successful finish of your planned layout. Suffice to say, I would consider no other as my experience with Atlas code 83 flex track has been greatly successful in accomplishing all of the attributes mentioned above...Nearly a no-brainer from start to finish. Good luck with your layout. FWIW Bruce /Notch 8 ATSF, BN, SP, UP
ONE KIND WORD ABOUT SECTIONAL SPIRALS (ok, curves): I installed the smallest wye we can at end of line on a 2.5' x 5.5' peninsula. As 18"rad. is about sharpest we want in HO standard gauge, and as bending, fitting and snipping code 83 flex was too problematic here I decided to try about 6 pieces of Atlas code 83, 18"rad. sectionals. Two legs of Y come out of a wye-switch's routes and third track is much wider Rad. leading to engine house. It's a small junction. The first two legs are the 6 sectional pieces (3 each) and worked out A1 perfecto as far as easibility of install and smoothness of the curves...Also, if you look closely , the spike head detail on the sectionals is way MORE correct than on the flex !! I believe the flex would break away too many spike heads, that they need to be tougher due to manipulation. Too bad flex didn't wind up with this quality spike heads, though...
You can still use Styrofoam to carve out dips and valleys, just don't use it as track sub roadbed. Problem solved. Use plywood which is a tried and true method or if you want to really get posh, go with spline sub roadbad. Then you can mess with flex track which solves your dilemma. I'm sorry but that is the best solution ... if that isn't going to work for you then let us know what alternative solution you come up with.
My biggest problem with flex track stems from reading the forums. Lots of complaints of track kinking, ect. I do not wish having problems while laying the track. It just seemed logical to me to use sectional track on most of the layout, while using the flex track for the long straight stretches. I plan on having my layout done on SCARM, before starting. No need for pinning track down with sectional curves, as I know where it will end up. I am new to this, so if I'm wrong, I'll listen. Also, all the video's I have watched on youtube show using structural foam board as a sub base. Am I wrong? I should use plywood as the sub base and just add the foam when doing the hills/ect?
