What is the best way to transition from one rail size to another? My CBAM&J is about to see a large expansion. It's been built using code 100 track that I had on hand, much of it dating back to the 70's. I've recently aquired about 150' of a lighter rail, not sure if it is Code 83 or 70 as I've never used either. Since it is in such good condition and there is so much of it, this expansion is likely to be built using this track. How do I transition from the 100 to the lighter rail and back? It will only occur in one or two places but is critical to smooth operation from the existing layout to the much larger expansion. Do I just use a fine metal file and feather it in? Is there some other standard method? Thanks for any ideas. Rick H.
Atlas has compromise rail joiners that mate CD 100 down to CD 83. You may have to bend some joiners to get CD 100 to mate with CD 70. I have heard of a manufacturer who makes a transition track section but I don't know the companys name or what CD track it will adapt to.
Walthers offers transition tracks from code 100 to code 83 and code 83 to code 70. All of my visible track is code 70, but I did use code 83 for hidden staging.
I use a rail joiner for the larger rail, flattened at the other end with the smaller rail soldered to the top of it. The flattened part first needs to be adjusted height-wise so the tops of both rails finish flush. John
That's what I would do. Or you could just take a Dremel grinder or file and shave the higher rail back a bit so they are even. Be sure to taper the smoothed rail back a bit so there is not an abrupt change in the track top surface. That's exactly what the transition track does. Why pay $7-10? John
The danger of doing it that way for novices is there is nothing to line the rails up. With Atlas's transition joiners, you can slip it on code 100 rail and the other side on code 83, or even code 83 to code 70. There is a step in the middle of the joiner so you can adjust the top of the rail so that it matches, and the inside surface of the rail. For more stability you can solder the rails to the joiner, viola, done. If you are feeling frisky, you can make transition joiners yourself by taking a standard rail joiner and cutting a slot in the middle with a dremel cut off disc. Then bend a step into the middle.
You can nip the centre of both flanges of a rail joiner, or saw them to split them, and then bend the joiner's floor to make your own adapter joiners. Often, since I solder most joints anyway, I just slip the joint together and then force the high rail down to bend the joiner a bit. With pressure, maybe weight, to keep it aligned, I then solder it. I use cardstock or plastic shim bits below the rail end that is now suspended a wee bit. Or, if you are going to ballast the tracks, just put them together as if they are all the same code. When it comes to gluing the ballast, use the blade of a smallish flat-tipped screwdriver to shove some grains under the rail you need lifted, and when it lies flush naturally, glue it and leave it undisturbed until the glue hardens. Let the ballast do the same work it does on the prototype.
I think I'm liking the trasition track idea. I should have known something like that would be available. Quick and easy. For the money I'd rather be working on other stuff. Thanks everyone!! Rick H.
