First of all, I'd just like to introduce myself. My name is Ted and I'm from NC. I hope everyone had a great New Year's. I'm attempting a modified Amherst 2005 layout with Unitrack. I may be asking some questions that have already been asked, so I apologize in advance. I'd like to get some suggestions on wiring for this layout with the use of feeder tracks and terminal unijoiners (standard DC). This layout already has two 62MM feeder tracks in it. I've read that is it suggested to have every piece of Unitrack with feeder wires. If I don't do this, can you suggest the best place to add any other terminal unijoiners? Next question I have is that this track is recommended to be run with (2) Kato Power Packs (which I currently have). I'm assuming this is so you can run two trains, correct? I want to run two trains. Is there something I need to watch out for when running two Power Packs and two trains? Will there be issues with the double crossover? I've included some pictures below of the outer tracks and inner yard tracks. I appreciate any feedback and assistance. Thank you!!
It is not necessary to have track feeders to every piece of track. If you are not using any insulated joiners you could get by with a set of feeder wires at the beginning of the end curves for a total of four on the left diagram. The right diagram will need some insulated joiners so you can run two trains and you will need a couple of feeders for each loop. The double crossovers are insulated between tracks so there is no need to add IJ's there. If you are using two powerpacks you will need toggle switches on the feeders to switch back and forth between powerpacks. My club runs a large T-Trak layout with one set of feeders on each end of the loops. (t-trak.org).
Thanks for your response. Can the layout be run with two trains on one Power Pack? What is the purpose of having two? Will using two allow you to run the train in opposite directions? Where would you put the insulated joiners?
May I ask, what will you be doing besides running two trains in laps? Will you eventually want to learn how to operate trains and do a little switching? You've got a number of sidings that would otherwise just be expensive props. Knowing what your goals are for the layout will help us offer the best recommendations, as well as some possible revisions to your plan. For example, if you are only interested in running trains in laps, then you really don't need the double-crossover; you can omit it and wire the two loops independently, which would do away with most of your wiring concerns. And to answer your question, while it is possible to run two trains on one pack, it is not recommended, if for no other reason than you cannot control them independently. However, note that simply running laps gets old really fast.
Welcome to TB Ted. Starting with an existing layout plan is a good idea and you can always make changes to meet your needs. The layout requires two power packs in order to run two trains independently (opposite directions). If you do not intend to run more than one train then you would only need one power pack. The purpose of the double crossover is to allow a train to navigate the entire layout. Wiring is straight forward. You will need a feeder on all legs of the double crossover, on two out of the three legs of any power routing switch and on one leg of any #4 jumpered for non power routing. Additional feeders may be required if the distance between feeders exceeds six feet. The main thing to watch out for when hooking up the feeders has to do with polarity. Insulated joiners would only be required for a reverse loop. The double crossover frogs are already insulated, as is the frogs of any power routing switches. You have come to the right place for fun and information. Jerry
Thank you Jerry. I'm assuming most of what you stated is for standard DC layout? What would be the difference if I went to DCC with wiring, insulators, etc.?
FWIW, as a fellow new guy, I am a big fan of DCC from the get go. I use the NCE Power Cab and it was a breeze to set up and is very easy to use. On your layout (as proposed) you could run two trains at the same time, in the same or opposite directions, and not have any special wiring concerns, etc. Bill in SOCLA Arroyo-Mesa RR
I would like to also agree with what SOCAL-Man said about DCC. I purchased my DCC set a few years ago, and at that time I had over 60 locomotives. It takes some time to get them with decoders placed in them. While I am still prepping my train room for my next layout, I am getting a decoder or 2 installed in them. There are alot of people here to really help you get started and if you ask David K Smith redesigns layouts for much better operations and over all enjoyment. Remember in the long run it is your layout and you need to enjoy the most. Good luck and have fun.
The DCC command station will control your entire layout. Wiring would be the same, with the same rules applying to insulating a reverse loop. The difference with a reverse loop is DCC uses an auto reverser whereas DC relies on the operator to flip the polarity manually. Since you already have the two power packs you could start out running trains using DC. You can always step into DCC later. This will advance your learning curve and start the fun factor rolling. Jerry
David, thanks for your response. I don't want to just run the trains in laps. I am interested in being able to switch and use the outer tracks as well as the inner yard tracks. Like you said, just running laps will get old real fast. I'd like to be able to run two trains and run them in opposite directions if possible. Any suggestions, revisions, wiring tips, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I'm open to using DC or DCC. Thanks!!
My first suggestion would be to step away from the track planning software, and do some research into DCC, just to see if it scares you off or not. Then we can talk about wiring. In the meantime, I might also suggest exploring some books on model railroad construction and operation, as well as various other areas of this forum (as well as other online forums) to see the discussions taking place about layout design and building. In your case, before jumping headlong into the model railroading universe, I would recommend thinking about what it is that catches your fancy. What kinds of railroading interest you? Steam? Modern? Passenger? Freight? A little of each? This may help you decide what sort of layout it is that will satisfy your interests, and from there we can make recommendations on plans to suit. And there are more interesting and realistic track plans you could explore aside from the traditional oval "racetrack" that (unnecessarily) serves as the starting point for most beginners. Additionally, there are options that would make layout-building much easier for you, such as hollow core door (HCD) plans; these are layouts designed to fit on a standard 36-inch hollow core door. They are very popular with N-scalers because they're relatively cheap and very easy to set up--with virtually no construction necessary. This would bring you to the track assembly stage more quickly and allow you to learn more about model railroading without having to play carpenter first. While it may seem exciting to jump right into layout-building head-first, this is probably the riskiest time for beginners, because it's kind of make-or-break: if in your enthusiasm you follow a path that leads to a dead-end, then we lose another member of the hobby. If someone can take you by the hand and carefully guide you from step to step, you stand a better chance of having a hobby for life.
"My first suggestion would be to step away from the track planning software, and do some research into DCC, just to see if it scares you off or not. Then we can talk about wiring. In the meantime, I might also suggest exploring some books on model railroad construction and operation, as well as various other areas of this forum (as well as other online forums) to see the discussions taking place about layout design and building." Don't! Even! Go! There!
+1 Additionally, if there's a modular N-scale club in your area, you can learn a lot about basic aspects of N-scale model railroading by attending meetings, getting acquainted with the members, seeing what they're doing and participating in their clinics (if they have any). You can also run trains at set-ups and shows, and usually, as long as you assist in the set up and break down, it's okay to run trains (usually in circles, albeit big circles) even if you don't have a module to contribute. What that does is develop your preferences without a big investment of money, time and buying equipment you may not be interested in down the line. Back in the early 80's, I got started up again in model railroading and N-scale by becoming a member of an Ntrak club, and some of those guys are still my best friends and train buddies, even though the club has been gone for a decade or more because most of us decided we didn't like the standards and restrictions adhering to Ntrak standards imposed on us. However, I am glad that I was able to decide what most of my preferences were by building and running 12' of modules rather than starting and building an entire layout. Cheerio! Bob Gilmore
I'd just like to add that the best way to determine whether to use DC or DCC is to ask yourself how many trains you want to run at the same time and how will their operation overlap with each other. The number of trains aspect is self evident (one power pack per train which adds up), but the overlap question will determine the complexity of the wiring needed for DC. If the overlap is minimal, like in the case of an industrial or yard switcher and a road switcher, then you may only need power routing switches to make it work and then the wiring would be fairly simple for DC. If however you are doing something like a passenger train and a road switcher where there would be extensive overlap, then DCC is the obvious choice.
