N Scale Rust Decals

I posted this earlier on another site. Not sure this has been covered before so forgive me if it has.

Surfing eBay I came across rust decals produced for weathering N scale equipment. They are produced by Weathering Solutions (Weatheringsolutions.com). I was curious so I bought some to try. I have had a lot of fun using them and I think you can get some very realistic rust going on your equipment.

“A” side of a hopper (clean, no rust):


“B” side with rust decals and a coat of Dullcoat:


Close up of rust:


For the purposes of this post, I did not add any other weathering as I wanted folks to see the decals in the nude. I will add weathering later on. I think the results are pretty dramatic.

Pluses:
It makes fast work of adding rust
No soaking decals. You dip them in water and they slide in seconds
You get a lot of decals (three sheets the size of Microscale sheets)

Minuses:
These decals are thick which poses two challenges. First, you need a lot of decal solution. The manufacturer even recommends putting the solution on the car, etc. before laying the decal on. Second, they are so thick that additional weathering could be tricky. The edges of the decals are almost as thick as thevertical seams on the hopper I have pictured. If one imagines using chalks or powders, they’ll expose the decal edges. The edges are not visible from a normal viewing distance.
*If anyone knows a way to make decal solutions “stronger” I’d love to know.

The cost of the decals is in line with Microscale ($6.00 prior to shipping), but you do get three sheets. Two are identical and one has large rusticle decals for the heavily rusted equipment.

The company makes different sets, too. Some designed specifically for locos. They also make them for other scales.

 

I think this is pretty cool...

 

Could you seal the decals before applying further weathering. The intent is to smooth the sides of the rust decal with another coat of clear paint.

 

Now that's really clever. How many individual decal pieces are applied on the example? My go-to decal solution for hiding thicker decals is Walthers Solvaset. That stuff is powerful. DO NOT use it before applying the decal. I use a little puddle of micro set, then get the decal in the perfect position, let it dry for a few minutes, then brush on a coat of solvaset. let that set up, then brush on a couple more coats. Each additional application will thin and settle the decal a little more. I'm gonna have to give these a try.

 

I just ordered three sets of the rust and etc . cool stuff for those with limited painting skills not unlike myself ... should work on metal in various locations on the layout and the saw mill as well as metal roofs , automobiles , iron equipment and such ....

 

I used Solvaset. These babies are rugged. You can drown them in decal solution. Adding solution before the decal is almost a must. As I said earlier, the manufacturer recommends it.

 

I outlined the decals:

 

Solvaset is the acid of decal setting solution. I don't know of anything else that is stronger.

 

I actually watched the 14-minute "how to" video and he gave a tip that I'd never considered before, but he said to let the water applied decals dry for an hour or so before applying solvaset. Reason: no water left to dilute the solution, so you're getting maximum strength settling/snugging/etc. I'll admit I'm no decal expert (but getting better!) so maybe this is a known "trick of the trade" but I thought it was worth pointing out.

I think it's a neat product...ordered some this morning and I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes.

 

Yes, letting each application dry helps. Like I said, you can use two or even three applications. Each time it will thin the decal more.

 

I always apply decals using Microscale stuff first.The Micro Set really does make the decals adhere better.When nearly dry,I hit it with the first application of Micro Sol.The Micro Set Should fill all the voids under the decal,as both liquids dry,the decal gets sucked down into all the irregularities.I apply setting solution as many times as it takes to get them burned right in,Solvaset is used last..

 

At first what sounds hokey actually looks pretty convincing. As far as using them, I would consider these decals as the final step in weathering a car. After first distressing the lettering, fading the overall car, and then a wash or two of a brownish black water soluble artist oil paint I would apply them. I'm looking forward to seeing more from this outfit.

Bob

 

I'm liking the effects of the decals. I agree with you guys that using them to enhance other weathering is the way to go.

 

Here are some projects I used our decals on.

 

Here are a few pictures of some of my models... I know they are N scale but I thought I would share them with everybody.

 

Very nice work! Thoughtful and well executed.

 

Thanks Craig, I had a little professional help on some of them..

 

hmmmm... may have to snag a set of these

 

Sorry I forgot the "not" all these models are HO..