Thinking of mini layout. Would this setup work?

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have looked at the t-track modules but honestly, besides the ease of separating them out for a storage or transport, I do not really see the advantage. Modules or not, I can only have a small layout. We are talking about layout that's no bigger than 2'x4' and possibly even smaller than that in the beginning. My idea was to put something together using Unitrack, see if I can stick to the hobby by making buildings, car models, etc. For now loosely placed around the track. Then I could turn that into a small permanent layout in a sort of inverted box where the tracks are on the lid and the box is just a cover. With a small layout, I should be able to pull something like that off (I think). I could then easily store something like that in a closet or a basement.

That's of course unless I am missing something obvious about the t-track system. Remember that I am noob in this hobby.

Thanks for the link to the 70-ton switcher. I like it.

On my way to a hobby store to do some window shopping.

 

You might consider the Kato V5 Unitrack Inner Oval Track Set Variation 5. It would fit in a 2 x 4 space, and has the advantage of having wide enough curves (11 inch radius) that most N scale equipment will run on it. If that's still too big remember that you don't necessarily have to buy your unitrack as a set. You can select two packages of 45° curves, a package of straight track, and feeders. For power feeders you can select the Kato N 20041 Unitrack 2-7/16" Straight Feeder track, but remember if you go with this option you will need to buy a package of 2 7/16 inch straight track to offset the extra length on the other side of your layout. The other option for electrical feeders is the 24818 Terminal UniJoiner set. With these simply remove two of the joiners in your track and replace them with the specialty joiners with wires attached. Kato sells 45° four packs in 11, 9 3/4, 8 1/2, and 7 inch radius. I would suggest going with at least 9 3/4 inch radius if possible, but definitely go with the largest radius that you can. I can tell you from experience that it's frustrating to buy something "just to get started" and find out later that once you start to progress in the hobby you can't use it in future projects because it's too small/tight.

 

You might want to consider building the layout in an underbad storage container like this…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7sTIRe6sOo
The lid is the case a piece of 1/4" plywood stiffens it up and provided a nice working base. The bottom is clear and fits over all the building except the church. The steeple roof is removable so I can put the bottom on. Everything is glued so it can be carried like a suitcase. The layout is roughly 2x4. But the larger containers would allow a city/country layout an extra foot or two can do wonders.

The tracks are from Tomix which outsells Kato in Japan. It is now being sold by Walthers as TomyTec. Another seller is www.BTtrains.com There are street and regular versions of the tracks and a battery powered controller is available. There are several starter loops available. I'd get a siding kit or two as well. The 90° crossing can make the railroad very interesting. Her's more information on the track…
http://www.trainweb.org/tomix

Many of the eight wheeled locos will handle 5.5(140mm) or 6 in radii you just have to travel slowly like the prototype does over tight track. The Atlas MP-15 will even work 103mm(4in) as will the Bachmann PCC and Brill Streetcars. The Peter Witt, and GE 44 and 70 ton locos can only manage 5 inches.

A great way to involve the kids and add some history to their lives is this series of paper buildings…
http://www.illinoishistory.gov/ps/construct_mainstreet.htm
The buildings are HO but printing them out at 55% will give you N scale versions. You can buy 65 pound card stock at the local office supply store or speedy printer. It's the same stuff used on business cards. There are lots of free paper project/building ideas on the web. The extra paper can be used by the kids to make their own holiday greeting cards and other projects.

A place with lots and lots and lots of small and simple layout projects is here…
http://www.carendt.com/

In the space of 1x2 fits this




For power and control I used this circuit as the power pack in the above layout.
Although this looks complicated this is a 15 minute kit from Bakatronics, the power source I use is a 12v 1 amp wall wall from Radio Shack.

 

drabina, if you can make a layout on a 2 foot by 4 foot board, then you will be able to use 9.75 inch radius curves (and you could even fit some 11 inch radius curves outside that).

Consider this: the one thing that can most easily turn off both kids and adults from the hobby are derailments.

The big issue with really tight radius curves (such as 6 inch radius) is that you will risk derailments at the transitions between curves and straights. You might get some locos to navigate these tight curves by themselves, but once you couple some cars to it, derailments will be likely. If all you do us increase your curve radius to 9.75 inches, you will dramatically reduce the risk of derailments.

The track many N-scalers will recommend most for reducing the risk of derailments is Kato Unitrack. They do offer curves having both 9.75 inch radius and 11 inch radius. There is something in the design of Kato Unitrack which virtually guarantees proper alignment at the joints, and thus eliminates a common source of derailments. Unitrack is not the cheapest option, but keep in mind that with Unitrack do you don't have to buy separate roadbed, and you would be almost certain of being the hero Dad who made a layout for his kids which does not have derailments (at least not often).

Unless you have previous experience with flextrack, I would not recommend that option. Let's just say I have a lot of "experience" (if you want to call it that) at installing flextrack improperly.

 

I have the plan for the East Glasstop coffee table layout from MR Dec '70. PM me w/email addy if interested.

 

Thanks again for all the replies.

I went to the local hobby store today and was able to check the N, HO and G (I think) scales. I liked the HO the best (size-wise) but I understand that with my space requirements I have to stick with N. Z-scale is out of the question as I understand it is even smaller than N.

Now, I have to say that I like ChicagoNW's idea of building the layout in the under-bed storage container. This saves me building wooden box and it is a cheap solution. I like it a lot and I think my wife wouldn't even mind trains in a box. I have measured one of the boxes I already have and it looks like I could extend the oval track to have one or two runoffs. I could probably extend the curve radius to 7" but I can't fit 9.75" as the box is only 18" wide.

So I think I have a plan. I just have to think about the layout and scenery now.

 

Drabina,
Being that you just want to test the waters, let me suggest that you pick up an Atlas Trainman Set for about $125. If the kids (and you) enjoy it, you can buy a couple of turnouts and straights to add sidings to add to the fun. And Yes, most of it will be ignored and forgotten about if you get serious about the hobby and if you don't get serious you can always set it up around the xmas tree every year.

 

In Japan, most people don't have space for a layout and set up track, run trains, and take down the track. This is why Kato Unitrack and Tomix Finetrack was invented - to speed setup and takedown. Add the separate buildings for some variety and it all stores away. No worries about how small the radius of the curves are. My nephews in Tokyo do this and have great fun.

If the idea of doing scenery appeals to you and you are interested in Unitrack, let me suggest the R216 (8.5" radius) Unitrack (20-170). I use 8.5" radius for a loop around my little Christmas tree at work. It will handle 40' and 50' boxcars (40' looks better), regular sized four axle diesels like FTs, F3s, GP7s, GP38s, etc., and fits on an 18" wide file cabinet. (Just don't bump the file cabinet. <smile>)

Whatever you decide, I hope you have fun doing it.

Andy
Tetsu Uma