I am looking for a bit of help. I tried to call Atlas to ask, but ended up hanging up after holding 20+ minutes just to speak to someone. I have a bunch of older non-dcc friendly engines, besides new frame halves, is there anything else I need to order from Atlas to be able to drop in decoders? I am looking to convert GP-30 to dcc? Thanks..........
I will try again to post, first reply disappeared. Obtain a diagram sheet from a current dcc friendly gp30 and review the numbers against the diagram sheet for your non-dcc friendly gp30. My gp30 are the original Atlas/Kato and I found that I needed new gp trucks assemblies, worm assembly, motor/flywheel and motor saddle. You can reuse the insulating bushing, nut and screw, contact strip and bearing retainer. Double check everything. Order enough for 1 or 2 the first time, assembly the units, then order the rest as that way if you forgot anything you can order it the second time around. Be prepared to spend around $50 per unit plus the cost of the decoder. I could not find dcc friendly gp30/35 at shows for less than $60-75. The original truck assemblies did not work in the dcc friendly frames. If you have the Atlas China Classic, I do not know if the parts are the same or not. You have Japan parts versus China parts. Have fun, Craig
Why not simply use TCS CN decoders? They are a little more difficult than a drop-in to do, but compared to basically replacing all the guts of the locomotive, its got to be cheaper and easier. If it has a split lighting board, you can use one of these. I have done about a dozen of them, 35's, 7's, 9's and RS-3's and they work great. Besides, they have a goof-proof warranty, so even if you botch it, TCS replaces it, which I have taken advantage of.
I would use either the Aztec frames or else just use a TCS CN-GP. You're going to do a tear-down and rebuild either way, and the advantage as I see it of the CN-GP is that you have the decoder already, you don't have to spend money beyond the Aztec frames. I find the Atlas "drop-in" frames on many of the Geeps and SDs to be kind of a pain because you often have to pull apart the frame halves anyway, and then somehow get the motor contact strips to touch the right place on the decoder. With even moderate soldering abilities, I think the CN-GP on the older frames may even be an easier way to go. Adam Compare these two for these approaches: http://www.aztectrains.com/Resources/TM3001.pdf http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/C...Pictures/N_Scale/Atlas/GP30/N_CN_GP30-35.html
Everyone thanks for the suggestions. I had hoped it would be just a simple frame swap, but having both the Kato and Atlas engines in the mix I think that would be a royal pain. I looked past Aztec, but if I have to I will go that route. Are the CN-GP decoders more reliable these days? In doing a search on this subject, there were quite a few posts about DOA decoders and decoders not functioning appropriately. Seemed like there was some thought that it was caused by it being a new product and that TCS was working on improvements/ refinements. Thanks again for the help!
Just did a Lifelike C-Liner today.Its pretty much the same as an Atlas frame.I did use a Digitrax DN135 instead of the TCS decoder though.Really its easy to do.Don't need to get a new frame or mill the old one. The wires will fit between the 2 frame half sections with no problem. Think it took me maybe 45 minutes to solder it in......Mike Here are the instructions from the TCS site http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/C...Pictures/N_Scale/Atlas/GP30/N_CN_GP30-35.html
I'd either cut the frames, have Aztec cut them, or use a TCS Cn/gp decoder. AFAIK, the new GP30 DCC frames will not fit the old Atlas Japan versions. You would at minimum need to purchase new motors. BTW, the later Atlas "classic" models were not DCC ready. TCS has their act together on this decoder. If you plan on adding some of the extra functions, you will love the size of their solder pads. Martin Myers
TCS CN, TCS CN GP is the way to go! Like Martin said, they have all the issues fixed, and have been fixed for some time. I have several dozen locomotives with the CN/CN GP decoders in them with no issues at all. Some of the best runners I have. If you go the wired route with the Aztec frames, look at the Zimo MX621 (or is it the MX622 now?) or the Lenz Silver Mini. While the TCS M1 is a great decoder, these decoders are really smooth runners and have some of the best control features in the marketplace.
Ive had mixed feelings about TCC CN/GP decoders mostly due to my ham hands. I found them a bit more difficult to install than id hoped. Once installed correctly tho they are a wonderful decoder. Smooth quiet and slow running. If you are comfortable milling your own frames, and have a really good soldering iron, and then insulate the tar out of the frame to isolate the motor they work great. If that sounds like more than you want to bite off then go Aztec. Much better idea than buying all the parts. Brian Ps TCS no fault warranty is always there if you doink up.
Hi The TCS CN/GP and CN decoders were the first decoders I installed in my loco roster. I returned 1 decoder which I goofed. If you learn to do these, then you are well on the way of being able to install other decoders as well. I agree that the TCS CN and CN/GP decoders are good runners. Cheers
I don't know about the Aztec frames as I wanted to keep the heavier frames of the split board style locomotives, but the TCS-CN's should be possible for anyone who has torn down an N scale locomotive, can use a soldering iron and either a motor tool or a mill file. The trick is rounding off any sharp edges on the frame and milling or filing a little extra room between the frame halves to run the wires between the boards. I burned a couple of these decoders by shorting out one of the boards after a sharp edge on top of the frame cut a wire. After I figured that out, smooth sailing, and the finished result is an excellent running locomotive. Besides, drop-ins are not always a simple drop, as anyone who has converted a DCC ready GP30 to the older style Digitrax decoder can testify.
I've installed several TSU CN and CN-GP decoders in older Atlas engines, including GP-30's. They are not a "drop-in", and require a little bit of frame metal removing so the components on the underside of the decoders don't short against the frame. I've got a mill, so it took me about ten minutes to remove the metal on these frames, but I could have done it less precisely, but just as effectively, with a big file, or my Dremel. In my opinion, there's no reason to do the Aztec frames, and just use the TCS split decoders if you don't want sound. I'm completely happy with them. As to installations, the most difficult part for me was bending the frame material where the boards have a friction fit with cast fingers on the frame. The boards are a bit thicker than the stock headlight circuit boards, so the "fingers" must be bent with a screwdriver so the fit is firm, but not floppy. Here's a photo of my Atlas GP-30's TCS CN-GP decoder installation. Here's a side photo showing the circuit boards undersides and the clearances from the metal I removed. I probably could have removed less metal from the front, but at least I know that I'm not going to fry my decoders from a short against the frame. I have had zero returns, zero problems with the TCS CN and TCS CN-GP decoders. I highly recommend them. Cheers! Bob Gilmore
I just wanted to thank everyone again for posting, I am going go with the TCS decoders. Sounds like they have the bugs worked out it is too simple not too use them! Thanks again!!!
I did my first two installs last weekend. Tackled the Atlas GP7 first. TCS GP-CN decoder. No metal removal needed, but I did notice what Robert mentioned, and what TCS says may need to do, bend the ears where the decoder mounts to insure contact. I couldn't figure out a good way to do this safely. So I did the next best thing, put a drop of solder onto the contact area. (this was in testing phase where decoder wasn't getting power after initial install and I was troubleshooting) I did have to take my mill file and flatten the blob, but that was really easy to get just right to make contact. No bending and breaking ear necessary. And decoder drives this GP-7 great. John
