Rightnow im using the bachmann E-Z track HO with black roadbed . But i found my old Life-Like HO track like you nail down ... and im THINKING of using that ... but im not sure yet . With that being said how many of you use the Bachmann EZ track versus the nail down type of tracks ????????????????? Thanks ! Nick PS. Basicly im trying to find out which type of track is more popular with model RR's in todays time ! I know i could make a BETTER layout on my 4x8 table with this nail down track . But i would need to locate the TINY nails to make it tho AND more rail joiners ( that will be a royal pain i betcha !! ) .
The last H0 pike I ever built used all TruScale. Had my brother not moved and left it, I'd still be using it today. You asked! Dave
Atlas and Peco Code 83 flex track and both Peco and Walthers/Shinohara Code 83 insulfrog turnouts. I also have several Code 100 hand-laid turnouts that I built seven years ago.
thanks Dave !!! Yeah ive had this life like track since a kid .. and i know how i can re-vive it .. Sandpaper and alcohol , thats what did the trick with my OLD bachmann HO ez track .. I did that and then it fired right up and ran my train across it !
I think Atlas code 83 flex track is very popular - brown ties, a little closer 'to scale' than the old standard: code 100 with it's large black ties and tall rail. The EZ track and Kato Unitrack, etc, are super easy to set up & run trains! The flex track in bulk requires more time than the pre-assembled pieces. The question to ask is, do you want to focus on building a track right now, or see trains run?
is it MANDATORY that you must nail this type of track down ? I have seen layouts running on youtube with it NOT being nailed down ... thats why im asking you
I use Peco Code 83 flex and switches and yes, I have strategically nailed mine down in places. There is just to much movement of the track if you don't secure it somehow. If you don't want to use nails, you can also use a thin bead of adhesive to secure the track. I prefer this method, but since my layout is temporary, the nails work best for right now. Brian
Thanks yall !! Now i have some insight on what im gonna do . Probably pack up my ez track , put it in the storage tote and then revive my Life Like HO track ... LOL ! Idk what number mine is .. but i know it looks more REAL if you catch what im saying !
Micro Engineering weathered Code 55, 70 & 83 rail laid on Central Valley tie strips and switch kits. Also using a Shinohara Code 83 curved switch and a pair of Micro Engineering pre-fab turnouts.
I use EZ track. But do not recommend it! For me it is a personal preference because many many years ago I was a kid laying out track with my friends. And now I am a Granddad doing the same thing with my grandkids. If you do use EZ track I recommend being patient and buying used EZ nickel-silver in big lots whenever possible. Bob
I have used a bunch of Atlas code 83 concrete tied track with Shinohara code 100 switches, interesting that the overall height of the rail is the same from the Atlas code 83 (concrete ties) and Shinohara code 100 switches. I like the Peco switches just fine too, but learned thru some club members that you need a .015 shim on the outside of the guard rails to help keep the wheel flanges from picking the frogs. They just used .015X.060 styrene for this, glued them on and painted it w Testors rubber which matches the Peco color. I did the same on mine, I think it made a difference in their performance, especially if you use scale or semi-scale wheels. But isnt Peco making a newer type switch now?
Good old Atlas Code 100 If all my locos and rolling stock had RP 25 wheels, I'd go Code 83...but NOT.
so basicly what your trying to tell me is that i do not HAVE to nail the tracks down then ???? I can just set out my layout and it will be fine ?
As long as the joiners hold it together...or the locks on EZ type track. Use something like Atlas snap-track, it will work apart and move around.
Some folks will nail the track in place for setup purposes, add finishing touches, weather / ballast, and then remove the nails for a more realistic track appearance.
I don't have any experience with the track you mention, but I have used EZ-Track and both Atlas and Peco flex track. I don't believe I have nailed down any tracks except where I want a free-floating turnout to stay put, and where lifting the nail will allow me to get the joiner to slide back a little more easily if I have to remove the turnout. Otherwise, I use only the DAP Alex plus with silicone, the stuff that dries clear or the stuff that dries white.
