Need advice on Benchwork

Bushel Jan 23, 2013

  1. Bushel

    Bushel New Member

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    Hi, I new to this forum, but not new to Model railroading. So i use to be heavy into HO scale, But due to a recent move, and to lack of space, I have made the switch to N scale. I can't say this is my first N scale layout, But beings the last time i owned any N scale was when i was a kid, it is like starting over. My question comes because i plan on doing a 2' x 6' layout. It will be a Logging layout based in the mountains. that much i am certain of. I plan of using 2"x 4" open grid bench. But I am having trouble figuring out how to build the legs and what size lumber to use? any suggestions?

    If this was HO i would just use 2x4's but i am trying to cut down on weight, due to if i ever have to move it.

    thanks for your help in advance.
     
  2. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    For legs, you could use a pine or fir 1x3 and a 1x2 in an "L" configuration. That would be plenty strong. But you'd end up back at the weight of a 2x4. Really a non-stud, kiln dried fir 2 x4 should not be too heavy.

    For the grid stringers, you probably don't need 2x4. You might consider 1x4 or 1x3 instead.
     
  3. Bushel

    Bushel New Member

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    Yeah i meant to say 1x4 for my stringers. had 2x4 on the mind. thanks, but if I did use 2x4's for my legs. Would it be ok to use 1x3 furring strips as my cross brace's. I know furring warp like crazy. thats why i wouldn't use them other then for cross bracing.
     
  4. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    1 by 2 should be enough for bracing. You should be able to dig up some of decent quality. As long as it is dried and straight when you buy it, there really is not much reason it would give you troubles with warping.
     
  5. Bushel

    Bushel New Member

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    thanks for your help. I least now i have an idea thanks again.
     
  6. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid TrainBoard Member

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    Consider using 3/4" plywood ripped into 3" or 2 1/2" widths for all structure. It's what we use here in the KC area on everything from small (24" x 12') to large (3000+ sq ft). The plywood is fastened together using drywall screws. The attached picture shows one layout that our loose group of modelers began assembling February 2011. The 2x4s are part of permanent support (no intention of every moving) and are attached to 2x4 plates anchored to the floor in this case.
     

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  7. Bushel

    Bushel New Member

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    I thought about using plywood But To expensive, I am on a limited budget. What i was thinking about doing was to substitute weight over cost. (i know you might think this is over kill on boards.) but using 2x3's and hopefully use my neighbors table saw to rip them down. if not. oh well. but Then putting a sheet of luan on top. and then 2 inch foam. so if i want to make a river or something I got the luan there as a base. I know the Luan isn't much of a support but thats what the 2 inch foam is for. beings this layout is only 2 feet and few inches by 6 feet i'm not stressing to much. and if the boards ever do warp I know that the foam won't warp with it. (might lean but not warp.)

    But I can't say that i am a carpenter, I have done the work before. and the one thing i hear is about weight but when i was researching building my aquarium stand. I learned that My aquarium weighs close to 500 pounds in a very small area. compared to a layout that is spread out over a bigger area. and my aquarium stand is not much smaller then the size of my layout i plan to do. So i think the plywood is over kill. along with money wise for me. The luan would only be the support to the foam. the foam is the main structure of the layout. I guess what i am trying to say is that the 2x3's cost $1.93 where 1x4's cost $7.98 the wooden structure really is just to keep off the ground. and eventually When money becomes good again I can re-frame and go from there.

    I hope i make since to everyone. The more i been thinking and researching the more i feel it be the easiest for me and the most efficient for myself at this time. And i value any opinion and hopefully get more insight as to my idea, if it is a good one or a bad one. truth is i just sat down about an hour ago and started doing the math in my head and so far this is what i came up with.

    But what do you guys think as far as this idea?
     
  8. Bushel

    Bushel New Member

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    Just one more thing thought i should add, well 2 more things, I dont want to sound unreasonable, because I know that most of ya'll has been in the hobby longer then me. and I don't want to step on anyone's toes. that is not my intent. and also. I might not know carpentry to the extent of someone who does it for a living or even someone who has built layouts before. I understand that long term wise boards will warp, it is a given. But My layout will be long term. just not the 2x3's I have a 36"x80" hollow core door. that will eventually be the base of this layout. Room wise at the moment I do not have. so that is why i am limited with this option.

    I am also a DIY (Do it yourself) kind of guy. I don't Spend money unless i absolutly have to. Most of what i plan on doing will be scratch building. and my mountains will be foam based mostly. So just to give an idea of what the situation is at the moment.
     
  9. Flashwave

    Flashwave TrainBoard Member

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    The modules we built for the Nwr are 1x4, and we've been really happy with them. But their only four feet long. Knowing people with much longer modules, they've fone to heavier wood and ply because pf warping issues. Probably as much building style.

    DIY is nice, but at the end of the day I'm not sure ripping 2x3s is ginna pay in the work dividends you're hoping for. Also, yu talk about reframing the layout, but keep in mind, if you buildthe same layout twice the cost to frame it is 1.93+cost to frame it again, so i. A sence, the end cost of the frame is 1.93+7.98 or call it $10bucks a board. The old saw that if its worth doing twice its worth doung right once...

    Here's an idea, if you can make it work. When I built the modular Thomas layout (2ft tall) i aquired square boards in cm. ut basically a 1.5x1.5 like you'd use to build a railing on a deck. Off season, so dirt cheep. May jot be stable enough for a taller layout, and I was using mine more as imternal guides and not stand alone legs because the doofus who built the legs couldn't build them square and rigid. (gee, now who could that have been...)
     
  10. Bushel

    Bushel New Member

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    Yeah your right Flashwave. But what i was figuring on doing, is just using the 2x3's instead of ripping them like i had plan. (it's to cold to do it right now) i figured i just build the frame with out ripping them. and eventually once i get the room for my HCD that i have. just moving it over to it. Right now The HCD isn't an option. But once it is i can just transfer the main layout to it. and use my 2x3 for building another aquarium stand. or something.

    The foam board is going to be the base. and if i attach it to the bench work i would only attach the corners so when i do move it. I don't have to fight a lot of glue. that is what i am thinking at the moment. Because my Hollow core door (at least i think it is a hollow core door. thing feels solid to me.) i am going to use folding legs. and lift it to my preference height. But that is in the future. right now i just like to get the basics done.
     
  11. COverton

    COverton TrainBoard Supporter

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    I only ever use clear spruce or pine, hand-picked at the local lumber yard, and allowed to sit in the train room for five days spread out before I use it to ensure that as it adjusts to the conditions nothing warps or bends. I only use 1X4 and 1X2. I use small blocks taken from the 1X2 and 1X4 to block in the tops of the 1X2 legs at the inner corners where the joints are in the top-frame, and I brace if need-be. By the time you craft such frames, plus a couple of joists here and there of the same outer frame 1X4, and top it with a fitted sheet of 1.2" plywood, it will be very rigid and capable of kneeling upon.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot TrainBoard Member

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    WOW, Keith .... Whose hanger is that?
    Sherrel
     
  13. Bushel

    Bushel New Member

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    Wow yeah I'm still working out everything. I haven't bought any lumber yet so i still got time. like i said i'm on a tight budget, as far as bench work goes. but it sure looks nice.
     

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