One project I am hoping to accomplish soon, is upgrading the blade on my old miter saw. Am saving my pennies.... Right now it is equipped with a ten inch, 40 tooth with carbide tips. Sort of a general purpose application. Even when it was new, there were occasions when the cuts tended to have a bit of splintering. What I am seeking to learn is if I went with an increased tooth count, how many would that be? Sixty? Eighty? What I cut is mostly model RR applications. Two by four, one by four, one by two, two by two, etc. I will also eventually need to cut, when I get rich, some moldings to finish a couple of rooms such as baseboards and door trims. So something which would give me clean cuts there, if that day ever comes. Anyone have a few thoughts on this subject?
Depends On What You Want To Do What are you wanting to cut? 2 X 4's, 2 x 2's just general framing pieces? Or are you wanting to cut moldings for trimming out a room? The more teeth, the finer the cut. But using a 50-60 tooth blade to cut framing lumber is overkill. Yes it (50-60 tooth blade) will cut your layout bench work, but it will go dull quicker also. Now if you are cutting moldings, which is a lot thinner than framing lumber, the 50-60 tooth blade will make a nice smooth joint. The main thing is that a 40 tooth blade is probably all you need for you bench work. If you are cutting 2 X 4's, 2 X 2's, 1 X 4's with a miter saw, keep a SHARP blade in it. The dimensional lumber will dull a blade a whole lot quicker than cutting moldings will. Maybe you just need to have your blade sharpened. A good source of miter saw blades is: ROCKLER Woodworking & Hardware go to: http://woodworking.rockler.com/sear...13B2xnKj27B7&modaf=r:bladediameterinches:1000 Blades can get a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. You might also look at Harbor Freight Tools. A little less in cost, depends on exactly how much you want to invest. I would also look around your local area for a Woodworkers Supply Store. Most bigger cities have at least one. If nothing else ask a local cabinet maker where they get their tools, blades and supply.
Mark- As I noted, even when it was new, the cuts would splinter ends on such as 1 by 2, 2 by 2, etc. I'd not mind eliminating that. I get a feeling that there is no one blade for me to acquire, which will dual purpose for both model RR use and household finishing work. I'll check that web site. Thanks.
Relatively low speed and big teeth across the grain will almost always give a little splinter here & there. My solution was a whole new saw.
Ken, another possibility is that your blade may be oscillating (flexing) slightly as it cuts which will cause splintering. Less expensive blades are made of lower grade steel which does not have the strength or hold its shape as with better quality blades. Sad to say, but it does cost a little more to go first class...most times.
Don't have a clue about speed, even a handsaw splinters at the end of the cut. Try Googling your question/problem. I've seen many wood working DIY forums where questions like this are discussed. If you find a forum, be specific about the manufacturers of the saw and blade. There may be some folks who know about that combination.
If cutting thin wood use a thin NON-carbide tipped blade for the best results. And keep it sharp and clean. Dimensional lumber will leave a varnish like build-up on the sides of the blade. It has more pitch in it. There are cleaners to us to remove this build-up that will help a lot. You WILL need more than one blade for all purposes. Usually the blade that came with the saw is of lower quality.
Try making a zero clearance insert by placing some thing material across the fence and the table, this should be clamped or screwed down. If the material doesn't have a place to splinter off as it is supported even with a poorer blade the results will be better. Same principal as using a zero clearance insert in a table saw.
I had some splintering with my miter saw and I did three things. I am not sure which one or which combination made this much less frequent. I replaced the sawblade with something newer and with I think a 40-tooth count. I picked one that was meant for trim-work, I believe. I can no longer read what it says on the side, but I just got it at an Ace or True Value, I think. Nothing special. I replaced the piece of MDF bolted to the base of the saw. I think this has helped support the pieces I am cutting better. I go more slowly, particularly when cutting through the bottom edge.
I worked as a finish carpenter for a few years. Freud 80 tooth carbide is the cat's ass for not splintering wood. The resultant finish is almost glass like. They are not cheep......but they can be re-sharpened. The sharpened blade never cut quite as well as a fresh one tho. I have 5-6 of em' in my blade drawer. If you want one to try (non-sharpened) lemeno.
I agree with JPIII, the freud blade is what you want. I have a saying I use,,, you buy junk or cheap tools, you will get junk or cheap work/ results. Good luck in your continued use of the saw. Remember,,, a safe work area is a clean work area. Wyatt
Freud is a great blade, but if ultimate quality is what uyou seek,go for Forrest. http://www.forrestblades.com/mitermaster.htm http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-CM108...&qid=1359112011&sr=1-5&keywords=forrest+blade A LOT of pennies!
