I ordered some clear light piping from Kato for the SD70ACe to replace the ugly dark yellow ones that came stock. They just arrived today...Has anyone removed the stock light pipes? Are they snap-on or are they glued to the shell? I took out the stock ditch light pipes and I think I broke off the ends. Has anyone successfully done this?
HI i have done many of them. no they are not glued. for the ditch lights you need to remove the shell from the sill and walkway and then remove the walkway part that covers the ditch lights. the walkway part also holds the front railings. now for the cab lights you need to remove the black cover that is inside the cab, change the light tube and then put the cover back in. if you need pics. let me know. ed
The first one took me more time than I thought. It was all snap in but there are a lot of pieces that hold in the light pipe. After I did the first, I could do the rest in 5-10 minutes. I just pulled out one that I haven't gotten to yet and tried it. Start by pulling the handrails down through the shell by a very small amount. Disconnect the front handrails from the shell so it can drop down slightly. This will open a small space (1/4 inch?) so the light pipe can be pulled out. You should be able to pull out the front walkway with handrails and ditchlights as one piece. The rest should be easy.
THANKS! I got the front walkway out and the broken pieces of stock lightpipe removed. It helps to remove all the handrails from the steps, including the ones that connect to the front of the cab. Now I'm having a hard time getting the black clip off that holds the headlight pipe. Any suggestions?
I'm having problems with the black cover. Just won't budge. I'm using a flathead jeweller's screwdriver. Sooo afraid to break something!
I just now did a couple and it will just take you some time to figure out how to wiggle things free enough to slide out the ditch light pipe. The rear light has "clips" on the side. I used an exacto to pull it away from the side and then using needle nose pliers to remove the rear lights. The cab headlight is easiest done by removing the cab from the long hood. This would be done after dropping the handrails down for the ditch lights. There are 2 black "pins" that fit into the cab's side glass. I also used an exacto blade to pull those out and then used the pliers to pull out the old light pipe. BTW, did you get my email about the decoder you were interested in?
there are little nobs that hold the black cover you spread the sides cab a little and the cover will start to fall out
Be careful you do not loose the headlight caseing, you can not get that part. I did 19 of them, lost 3 but was able to find them. Bob.
Okay, mission accomplished! Thanks NS737 and Ryan! I definitely learned more about the anatomy of my SD70ACe shell today! The whole operation is MUCH easier if you dismantle the entire shell. Warning: Before going further, Pay close attention to the following parts: - The two front handrails that attach to the front of the cab - The headlight lens frame (plastic) Put these in a safe place before going further. I lost one of the handrails for a few minutes (it was on the floor under my desk after a valiant search and rescue mission) and the headlight frame was just lying there next to everything else! This is done by removing the smooth plastic perimeter from the bottom that is connected to the handrails. The handrails stay together and there's no need to pop them back into their sideframe holes. There are 4 tabs visible from the underframe beneath the walkway, pry the walkway open with an Xacto and you'll see everything make sense all of a sudden. From then on, it's easy to remove the cab. The black clip you see from the underside of the shell is only the tip of the iceberg, so to speak. If you remove the cab (didn't know you can!) from the rest of the shell you'll see that there's more to the black clip, which is easily removed (after the cab is extracted) by pulling it out in a rotating motion. The rear lens was the easiest. Just get a flathead jeweller's screwdriver and pull it up from the bottom and it'll pop out. I did fit on the frame back temporarily and was slightly disappointed at the brightness -- it's tons better than the stock light pipes for sure, but the brightness is still only a fraction of the magnitude of, say a Kato GEVO, which has nice, powerful headlights.
Definitely an improvement, but still not as bright as the GEVOs. You can read a book in the dark with those on! Here's a Kato GEVO (l) and my newly-modified Kato SD70ACe on the right. The difference is stark.
what i did for the lights is i replaced the smd leds with standard bright white leds and now my sd7ace's are as bright my gevo's
Which ones did you use? Or can I pull the ones off the DC lighting board from my GEVO? Do you just unsolder the SMDs or is there a procedure to do that?
I will find my led label that came with the led's tomorrow. yes i unsolder the smd and solder the led in place where the smd was.
The Gevo is brighter because GE brings great things to life, and that included the lights in their locomotives......:cute:
Hehe, GE does have that advantage. Does that mean there's a refrigerator in the cab as well? If those were prototype trains, the GEVO seems to say, "LOOK OUT, TRAIN IS COMING!" while the ACe just says, "Look, I got four white dots."
Here's a photo I posted a while back of the new light pipes on my WP SD70ACe. I actually like the number board lighting. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php?photo=152236