Curling decal issue

oldrk Jan 13, 2013

  1. oldrk

    oldrk TrainBoard Supporter

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    I made some custom decals and when I apply them I first soak in water and then use some micro set. And them some Walthers solvaset. It seems the solvaset is causing the edges of the decals to curl. Has anyone else experienced this and what is the cure for this?
     
  2. CSXDixieLine

    CSXDixieLine Passed Away January 27, 2013 In Memoriam

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    Had the same issue recently when I made custom decals for a Pinewood Derby car. I had to dilligently monitor the drying process and press down any edges that curled up, which happened frequently. I used a small cosmetic applicator to do the job. After about 30 minutes they dried flat without any further attention. I used Testors decal paper coated with Testors glosscoat. I was nervous about touching the decal with softening solution on it, but there were no rips or tears. This was my first (and so far only) experience with custom decals so I can not say if the curling was typical or unusual.

    Jamie
     
  3. LOU D

    LOU D TrainBoard Member

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    Are you floating them off the sheet in the water,or sliding them off the sheet onto the model? The slippery stuff on the sheet is glue.If you float them off in the water,you're washing most of it off..You can improve adhesion by actually brushing a little of the slime off the sheet first,and putting it where the decal goes..Floating them in the water is the number one reason some peole get silvering when they decal.If there's not enough glue to fill the void under the decal,it doesn't bond,and has a big air bubble under it.The glue is what makes it melt in..
     
  4. James Norris

    James Norris TrainBoard Supporter

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    Do you just dip the decal into the water quickly? I have has issues with tiny decals, I cant always get them off the backing paper so I was leaving them in the water untill they foated off, I am guessing that was not good?
     
  5. LOU D

    LOU D TrainBoard Member

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    Always just dip the sheet in water for a few seconds,then take it out.Just wait till the decal moves easily,it may take a few minutes..Never let them soak in the water,especially big decals.My friend used to let them soak so long,one time I was clear coating a loco for him,the airbrush blew them right off.He got away with it because he was using spraycans.His decals always looked lousy until he stopped that.
     
  6. James Norris

    James Norris TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thanks Lou, I will try a quick dip and little more patience, with the next ones and see how I get on.
     
  7. u18b

    u18b TrainBoard Supporter

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    Another issue with homemade decals is the sharpness of the knife. A new #11 Xacto will produce some- but less curling than an older blade.

    Thank of it this way-- on a microscopic level, a new knife cuts through the film (sharp edges) and an older knife saws through (leaving jagged edges.

    At least that is my experience.
     
  8. oldrk

    oldrk TrainBoard Supporter

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    I put the decal in the water for just long enough to get the decal good and wet. Slid them off the paper directly onto the model.I dont have this problem with Microscale decals.
     

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