This is my first attempt to create a layout with XTrackCAD. I started with the Kato Amherst 2005 layout and scaled it up to get rid of all the 9.75 radius curves. Everything is now 11, 12.375, or 13.75. I really like the layout since it gives me the opportunity to create several different scenery elements as well as some raised track and bridges using a foam building surface. This is going in the corner of my downstairs bar room and will be to the side of the bar in an area that can accomodate a 3 x 6 ft board. The layout looks to be 30" by 55" after I scaled it up which should give me some more room for edge margins. I plan to run mostly passenger trains, so I didn't want any tight corners with the longer cars. Do you think 11" radius is still too tight for the Kato California Zephyr set? Since this was my first set and this layout needed multiple DC power supplies, I thought it would be better to start with DCC and I was planning to go with the DigiTrax Zephyr entry level DCC since I understand its expandable. I got a book on DCC, but still need to learn a lot on how to control everything. This will be my first train build, but I have been modeling scale RC airplanes for quite awhile, so the building is the fun part. Just need to learn the technology.
Hey milkman, welcome to the forum Your thought to scale everything up to get rid of the tighter curves was a good one. I think you could run the passenger equipment you'd like on that plan, but on the tighter curves i think you'd be disappointed with the appearance. I appreciate your space constraint, but would recommend keeping the passenger stuff to 13 3/4 and up. I might suggest that you try and squeeze a loop of 15" radius curves in there, which would give you a much better looking train Overall though, good first shot at things I like your choice of DCC over DC, and the Zephyr is a good place to start. I personally don't use digitrax, but I'm sure there are many people here who could sing their praises for you. As always of course, just my thoughts Keep us updated!
11" is very tight for long passenger cars. In Free-moN, we use 22" minimum radius, and that looks like this: [video=youtube_share;fhDmsQll78U]http://youtu.be/fhDmsQll78U[/video] And this: [video=youtube_share;ouMm4lUzJQw]http://youtu.be/ouMm4lUzJQw[/video] For the Zephyr, I'd suggest 16"-18" visible radius (you can go down to 11"-12" radius for hidden trackage). Otherwise it's going to look very toy-like. Personally, in that space (against a wall), I'd build it so you have a great scene in front and partial sides, like this: or this with a "staging yard" behind the scenery accessed either from underneath or from over the scenery. If you're doing passenger trains, forget switching. Just have some long sidings so you can have a few different "unit trains" to swap. Make the "back" part of the turnback loop tight (11"-12") and the "front" (showing) side wider (16"-20") so your long passenger trains look good rolling through your scene. If you want, you could have a "back" scene as well as a "front" scene (basically two loops with crossings or crossovers on each side) and thus "double" your scenes. But that makes the space very busy and a bit non-sensicle unless framed correctly. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the suggestions, I will try and bump the radius up one more notch and see if it will fit in my area. I am not restricting myself to just passenger trains as I might have other interests as well. A couple of DCC questions - 1. Do you just have one feeder track connecting power to the rail? I know with DC and the separate controls, I needed two feeder tracks for this layout. Assumed since DCC is controlling everything via the decoder, I only need one power connection to the track? The power is accomplished with the standard Kato feeder track? 2. Is all the Kato Unitrack DCC compatible? I know all the switches need a decoder to work with DCC, but just wanted to sure as I have 7 Turnouts in this layout and one Double Crossover. I was thinking about dropping a couple of the turnouts and eliminate the extra sidings in the upper right yard area. 3. How does DCC control on the Double Crossover?
Your trackplan looks good, but if you have a 3 X 6 space to use, why not lengthen the layout and as others have suggested, make the curves a little wider to utilize you available space?
If memory serves me right, the Amherst 2005 was 30" x 54". Here is a version I drew up a few years ago. It was elongated to fit in a 36" x 80" space if this is of any help to you. The Kato part no.'s are indicated.
Thanks for the idea Poppy and Dave. I lengthen the layout by two straight tracks, but left the curves the same as the 36" width is a hard dimension for me so I can still get behind my bar. I also dropped one of the legs on the three way turnout to lessen complexity and the crowded look. I think this will give me a lot more options for scenery. I have been looking at the Woodland Scenic layout process and although somewhat expensive, it seems like a bulletproof system. I was thinking of getting their 12x24" introduction learning kit which makes a neat display piece for trains and give an introduction to all of the building processes. If using an all foam base, do you still need the plywood on the frame for rigidity? Or can you just lay a 2" thick foam board over the 1x4 frame. My frame will be 36" x 80" I have been researching DCC some more and found the Digitrax DC64 quad decoder will handle all my turnouts and also cover the double crossover. Still trying to figure out how the decoders report the position of the turnouts back to the Zephyr control unit? Here is the modified layout. Still going to add the buildings and elevations. Just starting to figure out XTrkCAD.
FWIW, here's a couple of more. The Modified Carolina Central and the Modified Manning Oaks. The Modified Manning Oaks I actually built but had to tear down due to a move. I had put a reversing section in the middle.
I have made a few more revisions to the track plan to extend the track and put in a viaduct on the left for cars to pass under the train track to access the inside area. I plan on a mountain scene on the back right side. The layout is now 34" by 72" and will fit nicely alongside my bar in the basement lounge area. For the bench, I was planning to use a 1x6 on the perimeter and use 1x4 crossmember on 12" centers. I would drop a 1/2" sheet of plywood over the 1x4's and then top that with a 1 1/2" blue foam they have at Lowes. I was going to cutout my track plan from the blue foam down to the plywood to achieve the same effect as if I had used the 2" Woodland Scenic risers for all the track. I figured it was going to cost me $100 just for the 2" risers vs $15 for the sheet of blue foam. Still plan to use the 2 degree incline risers combined with the 1/2" and 1" risers to get my incline into the mountains on the right. Do you think my Dremel Rotozip attachment for cutting sheetrock will cutout the track outline in the foam? Assume it would cut it about like butter compared to sheetrock. Its all going to be covered up with plaster cloth when I get done with the scenery. Planning for DCC with a DigiTrax Zephyr and two DS64 stationary decoders to control the six turnouts and the double crossover. Here is the updated layout from XTrkCAD and a cross section of the benchtop. I appreciate any feedback.
Most people agree that you should put several Terminal Unijoiners and attach all of the with bus wiring. I would put at least two for each loop of track and at at least one for each siding.
I'm by no means an authority but in my layout which is similar in size I have terminal joiners at the four "corners" around the loops, at least one on the straightaways and after the turnouts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your overall plan is very similar to how I constructed my benchwork and sub-roadbed. It should work fine. I used some Woodland Scenics inclines, but mostly I made my risers out of foam blocks that I cut on a miter saw. In the photo below, the sub-roadbed is 3/4-inch blue foam, and the risers are pink foam. I used two layers of 3/4-inch foam, rather than one thick layer of 1 1/2-inch. The bottom layer formed the base, while the second layer was sliced up "cookie cutter" style to form the grades. With the 3/4-inch foam, it is easy to create smooth grade transitions. You can save a few dollars by using smaller lumber. I used 1x4 around the perimeter, 1x3 cross-members on 16" centers, and 1/4-inch plywood under the foam. It is plenty strong! Have fun! - Jeff
