Soldering Iron

SknarfWl Dec 10, 2012

  1. SknarfWl

    SknarfWl TrainBoard Member

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    I need a soldering iron to wire the drops on flex track. What is a good wattage iron to get? I want to be able to shove it into my tool box, so a big adjustable wattage is out and I already have a dual wattage gun type for heavier duty stuff. The track is Pecco code 80 and possibly ME code 55 in the future. Thanks............
     
  2. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    I keep a 15 and a 25 watt both in my modeling toolbox. And since the ties are plastic I cut out those ties before soldering and then slip them back under once done. I also have some clamp type heat sinks that keep the heat from going past a point were the clamps are by absorbing the heat. I have several sizes of them, all small, and they all are triangular shaped coming to a sharp point on the end, ideal for getting in type places Since it has been awhile I believe they all came from Radio Shack back when I got them. For the real heavy duty stuff I have a small, fits in the palm of your hand, oxy/butane torch that the flame can be adjusted to needle point. Both now hard to find and the replacement bottles hard to find. Using that the heat sinks are a must use.
     
  3. Ristooch

    Ristooch TrainBoard Member

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    Any 40 watt iron with a couple of different tips should do you. Weller is a good brand. A trip to your local Radio Shack (assuming they still sell such things) or big box home improvement store should provide you with choices. There are also many online sources. Invest in some thin solder (like 0.032" diameter) and resin flux and you are good to go.
    You might want to invest in one of those small stands (where the iron sits in a spring-like holder) with a base that can also hold a piece of damp sponge. The stand ought to be compact enough to toss in the toolbox also.
     
  4. SOO MILW CNW

    SOO MILW CNW TrainBoard Supporter

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  5. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    I have an 18W iron with a conical tip that I acquired 40+ years ago. I re-file and re-tin the tip every few years to keep it sharp. However, a small can of rosin flux is more important than the wattage of the iron. Always put a tiny dab of flux on the joint before applying the iron and solder. The melting flux cleans the joint as the solder begins to melt which allows the solder to bond more quickly. This allows you to remove the iron sooner, reducing the spread of the heat. The amount of rosin in rosin-core solder is not enough to clean joints thoroughly, it needs the extra dab.
     
  6. AtomicVette

    AtomicVette TrainBoard Member

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  7. u18b

    u18b TrainBoard Supporter

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    Two things.

    1. I strongly recommend 2 wattage adjustable. 15/25 or 15/30.

    2. Second, tips wear out. I would prefer a radio shack item since there is almost always one somewhere fairly close by.
     
  8. traintodd

    traintodd TrainBoard Member

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    I've been using a 40 watt Weller with a small flattened tip for several years, and I never have a problem soldering drops or melting ties. A 25 watt is a great general purpose iron for decoders and other electronic work, but in my experience, a 40 is the trick for soldering to rail. I've used it on Z scale MTL Flex, Peco 80 and Atlas c55 and it has worked fine. I have had poor luck with Radio Shack irons in terms of durability, so I don't buy them anymore.

    Todd
     
  9. Ike the BN Freak

    Ike the BN Freak TrainBoard Member

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    I got my weller at Fry's at Town Square.

    Its an adjustable, so won't fit in the tool box. Take it you are building an N trak module in the near future?
     
  10. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I got an older Radio Shack iron with both 25W and 40W settings. I'll be using it today to solder my flex as well as add drops. At 40W, I can solder the rails and drops in just a few seconds and not melt the ties. I do remove a few ties to give me some work room, than place them back when the track is done.

    One thing I started doing that looks good and helps in track work is the way I replace the ties. Example: Two pieces of flex that will be used in a curve.
    1. Cut three ties from each end of flex
    2. Place solder flux on rail joiner and rail ends, slide together
    3. Place track on solid surface, heat individual rail joiner and slowly add solder until it flows. (Only use a small amount!)
    4. Repeat process
    5. Carefully file and clean bottom of joiners to add drops (unless you use the pre-made ones)
    6. Clean with alcohol
    7. Lay track as you normally would
    8. Using the small square file available from Testors or similar, carefully sand a channel into the ties plates
    9. The file channel is just wide enough to allow the rail joiners to snap around the plates, glue the ties in place

    Maybe later I'll ad pictures if anyone is interested.
     
  11. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks, Jim. I never thought to use a file. I've always used a #11 Xacto blade which cut too deeply, both ties and fingers. :)-(
     
  12. SknarfWl

    SknarfWl TrainBoard Member

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    Everyone, thanks for your input. I ended up getting a 40 watt Weller Pencil iron. It seemed like a good wattage and it came with the most options for tips.

    Ike..... Yes, I have the wood module and will be laying track next month.

    Jim... Please post pic's.......
     
  13. Ryan Wilkerson

    Ryan Wilkerson TrainBoard Member

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    I don't know much about soldering irons either but would like to get into it. Uses would be installing decoders (hardwiring and hooking up LEDs to the extra functions) and also feeders for track and associated wiring.
    I have a couple older soldering irons that I was given but one looks like overkill: Weller Universal 100/140 watts (it looks like a gun with a trigger). The other is a Weller SP23 which is a 23 watt. The tips on both are in sad condition.
    I'd like to know if getting a new tip for the SP23 would work best or if the new one below would be a better option. Looking for advice from the vast TrainBoard BrainTrust :)
    $79 now : http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/
     
  14. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Ryan...

    Go with the Weller soldering station. I have an old Weller EC1002 I have been using for more years then I can remember. I solder everything with it. I just bought some new fine pointed conical tips for it. They work great for small electronics work...like decoders.
     
  15. Seated Viper

    Seated Viper TrainBoard Member

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    You can get those which run off the mains. You can get those which run off your model railroad transformer. If you go for one of the latter, please be careful! My local garage proprietor had one, plugged it into the mains and then wondered how it managed to get so hot so fast!

    Regards,

    Pete Davies
     
  16. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Have not forgotten. I went to post pictures of the work last week and the soldering iron died. I was able to pick up another soldering iron from a club member and just finished uploading pictures of the work tonight. I'll post pictures and my process here tomorrow.
     
  17. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    As promised, here is how I do a simple set of drops on my track. Soldering my flex track accomplishes a few things for me.


    1. Allows for good electrical conductivity
    2. Allows a nice curve without any kinks or miss-alignments that may cause derailments
    3. Good access point for drops wether doing DC in blocks or DCC

    Lets get started.

    [​IMG]
    Pictured above are some of the most important tools of the trade:
    • Soldering iron with a small tip (This is a Wahl cordless)
    • Cutting mat
    • Solder flux (To help solder flow easily)
    • Solder
    • Soldering tool (used for applying flux as well as other small tasks)
    • Wire tool (used to hold wire while soldering)
    • Track cutters
    • Plastic or sprue cutters (Used here to carefully remove plastic ties)
    • 2 Code 55 rail joiners
    • 2 pieces of flex track (Code 55)
    • (Not shown) Small file set

    It is also important to have a well lit area since we are working with small parts.

    [​IMG]
    Step 1: Gather both pieces of flex track. One rail is loose, the other somewhat rigid. I like to connect the two rails that are loose and use them for the outside of my curve. Next, using the plastic sprue cutters, remove at least two ties from the flex. Because of the nature of flex, you should only need to make one cut. Keep the ties, we'll use those later. If you have previously cut the track, carefully file the end of the rails until they are nice and flat. If the track is new like the example here, simply move on to step two.

    [​IMG]
    Step 2: It is important to have a smooth, solid surface in which to perform the following steps. I have a scrap piece of 1X4" pine I use. It keeps the track flat, allows me to solder without worry of marring a surface and keeps things straight. I have also employed the use of Midwest brand modeling pins, normally used for model airplane construction. Because this is pine and these pins are fine, I drilled a set of pilot holes that allowed the pins to go in and later be removed easily yet still allow pressure to hold the track in place. Again, these pins help with keeping the track rigid, in place and aligned. Now is a good time to check the fit of the joiners and track. If there are gaps or a rough fit, use the file to clean up the rail heads and check for fit again. Pin one peice of flex to the board, then add some flux to the joiners, slide on rails and add the other piece of track and pin down.

    [​IMG]
    Step 3: I'm using a cordless Wahl 25W iron, but any good quality iron that is at least 20 watts and has a small or fine tip will work. The goal here is obvious: Get in, melt the solder and allow it to flow into the joiner and complete a solid connection before melting the ties. Allow the soldering iron time to reach its operating temp. Now, carefully place the tip of the iron on the inside of the rail joiner. The flux will melt and smoke a bit. At that time, place the solder to the joiner near but not on the tip of the iron on the joiner. It will not take long before the solder melts and gets soaked up into the joiner, this is why we use flux. As soon as you have a bit of solder in the joint, remove the solder and iron, allow to cool, then check and see if the joint holds. The above picture shows that the outer rail has just been soldered, while the rail closest to use has only flux. You want enough solder to complete a good electronic connection as well as a sort of "weld" for the two pieces of rail. Too much solder will require a fair amount of filing later. The above solder joint is good but I still filed a bit to keep the rail profile intact. Once painted and weathered, this joint will be almost impossiable to see. Not that ties are not affected.
     
  18. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    [​IMG]
    Step 4: With the rail and joiners soldered, I next clean the joints with rubbing alcohol. Now turn over the track and carefully file the bottom of the joiners. All we want to do here is give the surface a slightly rough surface to increase the bond between the solder and joint.

    [​IMG]
    Step 5: Next, ad the iron tip to the joiner and add a small amount of solder. I'm using the Atlas 16 guage stranded wire here. Before adding the wire, cut off a small amount of insulation, dip the end of the wire into some flux and tin the end. Simply heat the wire and flow in some solder to in the wire. I also bend the tip of the wire at a 45 degree angle to allow more surface area of the wire to contact the joiner. Now, heat up the joiner again until the solder melt. Work quickly here. Add the tinned wire and hold the wire to the joint until the solder on the wire and joiner are molten. Now remove the heat of the iron but continue to hold the wire. This is where the aluminum wire holder tool comes in handy as the wire will get hot. In the end the drop should look like the picture above.

    [​IMG]
    Step 6: With our track soldered and wired, we want to fill in the gaps of ties. Place the ties you removed from the flex earlier on a flat, hard surface. Using a small square file, (I'm using one from a Testor's Model Master Set), carefully file between the "spikes" onto the plate where the rail was previously. You will want to file a channel that is just wide enough and just deep enough to accept the wider rail joiner. Now we go to the layout to finish this up.

    I'll post a follow up picture so you can see the results. I hope this helps you guys. I really enjoy soldering and it is not hard. Like anything it just takes the right tools and time to learn. Feel free to ask any questions.
     
  19. bill pearce

    bill pearce TrainBoard Member

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    Let me share some advice from a friend who was a co-worker at a television station, where he was an engineer. "Low wattage irons are more likely to damage something than high wattage ones. With the low wattage iron, you have to hold it in place a LOOOOONG time just to get the solder to flow. So, more heat is transfered farther and farther from the joint. With the high wattage iron, you can get in and out quickly, thus no damage." So, if you are melting ties with a higher wattage iron, you need to learn to solder better.

    Bill Pearce
     

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