Sculptamold?

railhead Oct 25, 2012

  1. railhead

    railhead TrainBoard Member

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    Hello,

    Finally getting around to building small (30x48) N scale layout. Am using Unitrack over two 3/4" thick layers of pink foam. My grandson wanted a bridge and a tunnel. I've carved out a little gully for bridge to go over and I'm thinking I'll just use leftover foam pieces to make small "mountain" for tunnel to pass through.......

    Anyway, I'm needing something to blend in with the foam, Sculptamold the way to go here? Is this the stuff that comes in a 3 lb. bag, and can you get it at Hobby Lobby or similar stores?

    Thanks for your help..

    Mike
     
  2. JPIII

    JPIII TrainBoard Member

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    I too am a "foamer". Some experimentation led me to either of these. Both require some thinning (with water to the consistency of cookie dough)) with the " Patch-n-Paint" being preferred. I think you could cover your whole layout with a tub of it.
    The P&P is about 18 bucks at Home Despot....which is at the high end of spackle. .....[​IMG]
     
  3. Mike C

    Mike C TrainBoard Member

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    The joint compound and spackel will work well, but the Scuptlamold will be much lighter. And possibly eaiser to work with.......Mike
     
  4. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Correct me if I'm wrong, but spackle has a much longer set time. After about 15 min, Sculptamold (when mixed with water to oatmeal consistency) sets.
     
  5. hoyden

    hoyden TrainBoard Supporter

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    I am using Scuptamold over plastic screen and like the early results; light weight and very rigid. I can apply rock molds to the hard shell.

    2012-10-26_04-01-45_85.jpg
     
  6. railhead

    railhead TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for all the help; have my mountain roughed in; will try to find Sculptamold after work.......
     
  7. mscwolf

    mscwolf New Member

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    I love Sculptamold. I use it whenever possible. You can get from www.DickBlick.com and save a bundle.
    R/,
    Norm
     
  8. JPIII

    JPIII TrainBoard Member

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    The Patch & Paint is very light......that whole bucket (one gallon pre-mixed)weighs 3.78 lbs, is easy to sand/work when dry..... takes about a day to dry and doesn't crack unless you slather it on thick. I pour in about 1/4 cup of water, mix, use what I need, then put the lid back on, come back a week or 2 later & use some more, put the lid back on.......none goes to waste.

    The other stuff in the pic is not light.
     
  9. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    I use two layers of WS plaster cloth over foam blocks (or crumpled newspaper) to get the proper shape, then apply thin layer(s) of Sculptamold. That way I use less Sculptamold, and it dries more quickly being thin.
     
  10. Arctic Train

    Arctic Train TrainBoard Member

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    Sculptamold is easier to work with and lighter of you need a ton of molding material,but i fimd it doesnt take light washes of watercolor paint as well as plaster of paris. Paint sits on top of the sculptamold where it soaks right into plaster. If you're going to cover the area up with groundcover then go sculptamold. If painting, ie. exposed rocks, go plaster of paris.

    Brian.
     
  11. railhead

    railhead TrainBoard Member

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    So I stop at Hobby Lobby; no sculptamold..........Home Depot is just down the road, I check in there and they had JPIII's Patch & Paint; I picked up the medium sized can to give it a try, felt like I was holding a wiffle ball, I began to work with this stuff last night; we'll see how she turns out. Thanks again everyone for the ideas/ pics/ etc. you've been very helpful. Now once scenery is complete I need to work on creating a factory that produces, chocolate milk, peanut butter, cereral, dog food, candy, french fries, and furniture ( 4 yr. old grandson :) )

    Mike
     
  12. JPIII

    JPIII TrainBoard Member

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    It takes a little fooling around to get a consistency (the stuff is waay too dry initially) you like and I only stir in water a few inches deep leaving the lower part for later. After troweling it on ( with a putty knife) best one can do. I take a cheepo paint brush, dipped in water, & smooth out the ripples....Ya gotta keep the brush WET. The resulting (when dry) surface is pretty soft but firms up nicely with a coat of latex paint. A pic.[​IMG]
    Good luck.
     
  13. Logtrain

    Logtrain TrainBoard Member

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    I have worked with Sculptamold for years and have always had great success with it. A couple things to keep in mind. It depends on your application as to what consistency you mix it. For example, if you are filling in a hillside where you are going to simulate rock, you want the mix to be on the drier side (just barely wet) as someone said earlier in the thread. If you are going to use this say for something like a road or a smooth surface, mix it like oatmeal. It is easier to get a smoother surface the wetter the mix is.
     
  14. Primavw

    Primavw TrainBoard Member

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    I used WS's version of sculptamold which is Hydrocal... same thing essentially except WS charges $7+ for a quart whereas the sculpamold comes in a 3lb bag, which I picked up at the local art supply store for $7.99 and didn't have to pay shipping. So theres that...
     

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