Hello all, I will be rebuilding my layout later this summer/early fall and I am in the investigation stage right now. I will be moving into a smaller space in the basement so I will be doing a double deck and will need two helixes to move trains to the upper deck. I'm not interested in scratch building, but I am curious if anyone can recommend a kit that I can build. I will need 21 inches to provide enough lift for the second deck. I don't want to say that money is no object, but it is not as high on the priority list as other priorities like ease of assembly, solidness, etc. It is kind of exciting to rebuild, correct the mistakes from prior efforts, and I will be implementing DCC as well. Thanks in advance for any leads you all have for me.
I don't think this violates forum policy... There is a company called "ashlintrains" that manufactures several different helix kits. They run an add in the back of MR, or you can find them on the web.
Thanks for the clarification, I didn't even think about it before I posted. Since we are ok, let the discussion begin...
Here's my Helix from Ashlin Designs. Great product. Pictures show under constructiuon and in place in a closet on my layout. Kit rised 15" but Ashlin will make whatever you want. It measures 36" in diameter and is 8' of track per revolution at a 2% rise. I attached lead wires at 8' intervials for DCC operation. I used Kato superelevated concrete tie double track. Workes great. Hopes this helps, Bill View attachment 45842 View attachment 45843 View attachment 45844 View attachment 45845 View attachment 45846 View attachment 45847 View attachment 45848
Bill, That looks great. What is the deck separation? Any clearance limitations? I remember seeing the Ashlin Helix a while back, great idea to fit it with Unitrack. Greg
Greg, It's 2" between levels, no problems with clearances. Unitrak worked great. Kept attaching sections at the top and slid the track down the helix. No need to attach the track as you build it. Used hot glue to hold in place. Bill
Thank you for the pictures, looks like a pretty straightforward construction. I might choose to go single track, flex track. May I ask if you considered that, and what may have swayed you to the kato route. I might also do what you have done, it looks great!
Radius is 15" inside and 16 3/8 outside. My entire layout is Unitrak because I like the way it looks and snaps together although it can be quite pricey. Got most of the track on EBay. I have one helix and used the double track because one is the up track and one is the down side and the super elevation is great. I've had four trains in the helix at one time. If you stretch out the track it's 56' long not counting the approaches which means trains have a good distance between them. Bill
Bill, What kind of trains are you running on your helix? I considered using the super-el track but many have advised against it, and it certainly makes sense that it wouldn't be helpful for avoiding stringlining and so forth. I'm not criticizing, quite the contrary...I hope that it is working great for you so that I might try it anyway! But you may not be running intermodal and other stuff like I am.
Doug. I'm running E9's,E6's, U30C's and C30-7's (all UP). The E9 ABA configuration (all powered) pulls 11 passenger cars (City of Los Angeles), the E6 pulls 7 passenger cars, the U30C's and C30-7's pull between 15-24 cars, mostly hoppers. I've had absolutly no problems in the helix especially with the superelevated track. The train with the 24 cars is actually over itself by 2 cars in the helix. Hopes this helps, Bill
I'm thinking about using one of these helix kits, the 15"r, 16 3/4"r one. My question is will a 35-40 car freight train made up of modern type longer cars be able to run upgrade on this helix without stringline derailments?
These kits look really cool and seriously considering one. I am wondering if it is cheaper to buy rather than build? If you went with C55 track would you use sectional pieces or flex?
What kinds of cars do you run on that helix? Have you had any derailment issues with stringlining long cars like autoracks? Double stacks? I would like to use the same track on my helix kit but I am nervous about the super-elevation causing problems.
I'm afraid of the same thing, if I do try one of these kits I'm planning on laying code 55 flex track as far on the putter edge as I can for the widest radius. I don't want to use super elevation on this as I feel the curve is too tight with longer trains. I'd also only lay one track on it sense I don't need double track.
The ashlin helix kit is well made, fairly simple to construct, and (the one being noted here) is specifically made for the unitrak double superelevated Kato track of radius as indicated. If you do the math it is not exactly 2% grade...it actually provides a different grade for each radius based on the circumference of the circle formed by the track (for a 2-inch rise one needs 100-inches of track to provide 2% incline). With 15-inch radius each complete circle provides 3.1416x2r=94.248-inches; with 16.375-inch radius each complete circle provides 3.1416x2r=102.8874-inches. Thus, with the Kato track in inner radius is a little shy of 2% and the outer radius is a tad less than 2%. Just for accuracy, mind you. In the same vein, it is not really a full 2" rise per circle as one would need to consider the thickness of the subroadboard that is the helix itself. If I recall correctly, my Ashlin kits was provided with 1/4-inch subroadbed...making it a 1.75 rise (i.e. incline/decline) per each full circle. Additionally, I think we do well to remember that the transition into and out of a helix is quite critical. While each section of Unitrack in the helix will have a standard amount of rise per its length, the transition tracks will require an easement to keep from uncoupling and possible derailments. Also, in any helix of any radius, the combination of incline and curved track provide a double dynamic of drag...friction of wheels on curves rail is present in addition to the climb and how that in itself requires more pulling power. If I were to build my own helix, I would optimally use ovals instead of circles, the curves all having easements into and out from them, and would aim for 1.5% incline to assure that longer trains could be handled without a problem. Now, if you are using the Ashlin kit and with the Kato track, one for up the other for down, ideally the up would be the 16.375-inch radius, the down being the 15-inch radius. Just some thoughts that I hope will be helpful. Respectfully, Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
This a post that i made a couple years ago about my oval helix. "I built my oval helix with a 1.3% grade with a 15 inch inside radius on one end and 12 inch on the other with a 5 foot straight section. Thus it is only 3 laps. I am fortunate that the oval helix is in the adjacent furnace room. The center is open for complete access to all of the track. It is double track and built with 3/8 plywood and separated by threaded rod on the inside and outside. A little expensive but I felt the ease of adjustment and assembly was well worth it. I am easily running Walther Proto berkshires with 25 to 30 cars with no problems. I will try to add a photo or 2 later." If you are interested in more detail or photos contact me offline at jacksibold@mac.com
