Hello to you all again. I'm in need of your insight. So here's the deal. I will have throwrods from the points to the facia through a plastic tube that will be sceniced over. The problem is that the knobs will be at waist height, perfect for being bumped or leaned against by guest operators or thrown by friends' kids. So I looked EVERYWHERE for like a 2x2x2 hinged box with a lock ring (so that you need your switch keys to throw a switch ), but could no find anything that's not stupid over-priced or too big. I even tried looking for small jewelry box trays to throw a hinge and lock on but still nothing. I'd build them myself, but CA glued guards will not hold up against clumsy people (myself included) or kids with no manners. Please help me. The knobs/rod will stick out only a half inch at the most from the facia front. I could use a hole cutting saw and a backing block of wood for a recessed control, BUT I really really want a switch lock feature on my layout since it's not a very large layout so I gotta make it as involved as possible. Thank you so much for any advice.
How about building the boxes out of wood and plexiglass??? Basicly build a frame and hing the plastic.
Interesting concept! How many switches do you have like this? Each RR generally had a common key and I think you'd want to do it the same way. Fiddling with multiple keys is bad, unless maybe you have a different one each for the yard and the road. Consider the little TSA luggage locks. AFAIK the keyed locks only come up to a set of 4 with common keys.The combination locks can be set custom by yourself. For those, I think you could just hand out switch keys with the combination painted on. If recessed or not, all you need is a door. That could be a square of plexiglass from Tap or somesuch, who I believe would cut it for you. Rounded corners, please. Drill for hinges at top and cut a hole for a hasp to fit through at the bottom. You could use a wooden door as well, but I would be tempted to stick a rubber spider on a spring behind it. If not recessed, build a wooden frame less than the door size, deep enough to cover an extended control knob (of course). EDIT: See great minds think alike! Greater ones are faster, though. In the proto world, at least some of the switches had double locks (same key, I think) to prevent bonehead mistakes. NOTHER EDIT: Found keyed locks in a set of 8 (Eagle Creek) if that's more useful.
Steve, how about an inverted irrigation pipe PVC cap to recess the knob, and a top pivoted "swing plate" to cover the hole? One could rig something that looks like a lock cover, with a locking clip on the bottom? Some people have too much modeling time on their hands.... have fun, Otto K.
They use thermostat covers in commercial buildings. These may be too small, but maybe you could "kitbash" a couple together. And they come with keys and locks.......Mike
Build a small shelf above each knob or grouping of knobs. A little wider then the knob and have it stick out farther then the knob when the knob is fully extended. That way a person has to stick their fingers under the shelf to access the control knob. But can not hit it with their body.
Good ideas. I have a lot of time to think at work and your ideas got me thinkin. I think I may be on to something now. I'm thinking of using 3 or 4 small L brackets you find at Lowes/Home Depot, etc, and screw them around the switch rod/knob. Then take a piece of wood or Plexiglas, attach a hinge to it and one of the L brackets as the front piece protecting the knob, and have the hasp/lock ring on the right side L bracket. Do you think that would be plausible? I would prefer to have the rod recessed into the facia, BUT it may end up being imbedded into the top of the foam and buried under the scenery, meaning the rod and knob would be right at the top edge of the layout. So if it comes to that I need something to still guard it, retain the desired locking feature, yet not interfere with the enjoyment of the scenery if one gets eye level with it. Keep the ideas rolling tho please.
Hello Steve, if I recall correctly I have seen small plastic boxes with a lid at a "Container Store". It was in Tysons Corner,VA, so I am not sure if any store is in reasonable distance for you. But they also sell Online, here is a link to potential "candidates" http://www.containerstore.com/shop/containers/boxes?productId=10028594&N=80804 Cheers Dirk
Why don't you try a sliding door plunger lock. They are made by Knape& Vogt. part #k984-90-14 This model has 15/32" of travel in and out. You might be able to make it look pretty good if they are mounted almost flush with the top of the table. The locks can all be keyed the same, so you would only need 1 set of keys. take a look at the different types of locks there are for cabinetmakers.
I dont know about the plunger locks. At $247 a piece, I think I'll have to go another route. Edit: Oh, box of 12. But still.
Also a reminder that anything hanging like a padlock is probably going to rub/hit against the door and/or fascia. Just a piece of foam tape or masking tape on the back of the lock would be IMO enough to protect the door and/or fascia. Your idea looks pretty good.
Good idea about the tape on the back of the lock. Didn't even think of it. I'll do that when I get the locks on them eventually.
I just read this thread and looked over on my desk at a 3x5 card holder box with a lid. Could you maybe cut the bottom off of a card file box and use the lid and part of the frame? Something like this: Andy Tetsu Uma
Andy, it seems to me, that Steve would not want them to stick that far out so the box is getting hit all the time. These would get hit far more then a knob that should not extend more then about 1.5" from the fascia.
I bought some hardware today. Hope to get one working tomorrow and post pics! It looks like it's going to work.
Hey Steve, you might want to check out the newest issue of RMC. It has a really neat electronic switch key that will hang on a key ring. Basicaly its a phono plug and jack........Mike Yea, I know, you probably have all of the turnouts done by now...hboy:
