Which would you do: 2x4 and 2x6 OR 1x6 through out? I'm building 3 sections to assemble in somewhat of a U shape. 3 sections consist of 4x8, 4x7 and 4x6 to be bolted together. I plan on building it to last a future move, so I'm leaning towards the 2x construction with 4x4 legs in the corners, so if I want, I can adjust the height of the table to my liking. Any thoughts? Jeff
If ypu're putting a top on the frame work, plywood, etc., then I'd go with 1X4 or 1X3. The 2X would be over kill and not really needed; as far as legs go, 2 1X3 joined at the edge forming a 'L' is plenty strong or a 2X2. Just my opinion. Jim
1X2 risers/supports for roadbed is fine, and also for legs as long as they are not too long or are braced diagonally and it would be best for an against-the-wall arrangement where the wall adds restriction of movement when the item is jostled. I have used them on two layouts now. As for the frame and joists, 1X4 is plenty strong. If you want extra strength over long frame sections, rip one of the 1X4's into 1X2 and make L-girders with the 1X4 vertical and the 1X2 glued and screwed at right angles to the edge of the 1X4. Works marvey. Here is an image of my new layout being constructed. This is spruce 1X4.
My layout will be accessible from all the way around, totally free standing. To many issues to deal with if I go along the walls. A 1x6 outer frame and 1x4 interior studs might hold up fine for stiffness. I'm sure I’ll need cross braces on the legs to shore them up. I’ll just see what they have that's straighter 1x or 2x's. 1X construction will take longer to make, since I will need to screw all the joints, but will weigh less by half. I'm going to get the lumber tonight, so I will see. I know, to start with, it might not weigh allot, but, I'm sure I will be adding and adding as time goes on. .
1x3 for framework. Cross-braced 2x2 for legs. 1/2 plywood supported by 1x2 risers. Plywood gets cut up cookie-cutter style. Here's the bench-work for my in-progress layout. It's an 8'x9' doughnut with a lift-out, soon to be expanded to 8'x12'. Stiffened construction is more effective than using heavyweight materials. This benchwork has completely supported my 265 pound frame. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/111937484743367711266/albums/5709232268915195681?hl=en All techniques taken from Linn Westcott's excellent book on bench work construction. Good luck with your project!
Get a good quality fir or pine 1x3, 1x4. Brace with 1x2. Or 2x2 if you feel it is necessary. Assemble as already noted above. Please believe us, this will plenty strong, free standing or otherwise.
My expansion was designed and built to be "movable" in case access to the windows / walls of my living room was needed. I've built mine entirely of: 1x2s for cross bracing 2x3s for legs - I would have used 2x2s but they didn't carry them 1x4s for legs and support Wood screws Foam was glued to the 1x4s While not transportable because getting it down stairs and out doors would be tough. The areas you describe are pretty big. It does not seem feasble to me to get them through a house. Could you provide a plan of the space?
What are you trying to do, drive a car across it? This is OVERKILL!!!! My dad built his layout back in the late 70s using 1X2 L-girder construction with no cross braces and glued 2" styrofoam to the L-girder. He then used 2X2 for the legs with 1X2 cross bracing for support. We have taken this layout to MANY shows over the years and it is still holding up after all these years! Now here is the best part. The ENTIRE layout is 8'X12' and the entire weight of the layout I would guess to be around 25lbs. It is easy to move, transport, and set up at a show in less than 45 minutes, and that is with putting all the rolling stock on it. Just an idea for you!
in N scale 1/4" birch plywood provides a sturdy base even on 24" centers of sub-base made from 1x3" lumber. anything more that this only adds weight to any transporting or moving. when thinking 2xanything i think house construction not model railroad construction. i cannot conceive of anything that would necessitate 2xanything on a model railroad unless one finds the desire to rip 2x4" lengthwise for legs.
Well I decided on 1x4 through out and 7/16 plywood deck, a little over kill, but it wont warp either. The sections were pretty lite also. My wife, who help me carry them upstairs, even thought they would be heavier than it was was. I framed it with 16" bracing. I used screws for a fastening. I still have yet to install any cross bracing, but it is very steady as-is. I was even able to start on the empire a little. There will be a second level all along the outer edge along the back side with only about a 6 inch shelf except at the tips/end of the U sections, it will have about a 1' 1/2" shelf. Ill post that picture when I get it ready for track. I started laying some track out just to see where I stand with track that I might need. It looks like Ill be OK with track so far. Here are a few pictures so far.
Update I have 1 main line and most of the yard down and running trains. None secured to decking, yet until I'm sure that's where I'm happy with it. Checking secondary main line track and fixing to layout upper level on south side.
Almost done with helix except a couple more braces. Tested one engine up and down 3 times. Smooth as glass..At least that engine anyway...I know Murhy is around somewhere. lol It does'nt look level from this picture, but it is.
UPDATE Track all down except for a 2 ft section I decided to add on..Tweak and testing, then the dreaded wiring..lol
Started the wiring yesterday. (Note to self) Check to make sure pigtails drop far enough down from level 2 to level 1 in order do anything with it...(lesson learned) Glad I had only did a few before I checked...I decided to wire all the switches rails also. After running a few test trains, a few trains hesitated while passing over a few switches. After I wired the switches I had no problems. Small price to pay for what I paid for the switches and 90% of the track. But like anything, with age comes problems...HEY...Did I say that?
Waiting last of switches to come in and then I wire up turntable and turnouts. All track down and wired. Here a few shot of where I, at now. I am running 3 separate controls.
