Out of the armchair: layout construction has begun

tasun_eq Feb 27, 2012

  1. tasun_eq

    tasun_eq TrainBoard Member

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    After several years of on-again and off-again planning I finally decided to take the plunge and start my n-scale empire:

    IMG_2181.jpg

    Yep - it's a 32" x 80" HCD with a 2'" foam top :) We all have to start somewhere, right? Taking the advice that I received here on Trainboard I decided to start small. Here's a very brief rundown of my givens and druthers:

    Scale: N
    Size: 32" x 80" HCD to start. Planning to eventually grow to a ~12" wide shelf layout filling a 22' x 8' room with a liftout bridge spanning the entry.
    Era: Dual eras because I can't make up my mind. 50's transition and modern. Both eras will be very loosely defined.
    Track: Kato Unitrack for now so I can easily change things, possibly switching to Atlas code 55 in the future.
    Prototype: Freelanced Pacific Northwest - currently zeroing in around Spokane/Portland. 50's era: ATSF, GN, NP, SP (I know the ATSF never made it up that far but a man can dream :) ). Modern era: BNSF, BN, Amtrak, some Montana Rail Link, some UP/SP interchange.
    Minimum Radius: 12 3/4 on the HCD, 19" or more on the future layout.
    Control: DC for now with plans to quickly switch to DCC.
    Operations: Continuous running, some switching, passenger operations. In short, a little bit of everything . . .

    While the new layout table was drying my boys and I unboxed our Kato starter set. Within 10 minutes we were happily running trains on the dining room table:

    IMG_2194.jpg IMG_2195.jpg

    I've learned more in the last few days actually "workin' on the railroad" than I have in years of armchair planning. Here's a few of the highlights:

    1) N-scale is small. I mean, I knew it was small but I had no idea when I tried to get the cars on the track and couple them together for the first time. Thank goodness for the Kato re-railer tool. I had a moment of buyers remorse thinking that I couldn't possibly work with such tiny trains but it quickly passed.

    2) When everyone says watch your layout depth they aren't joking. I opted for a 32" wide door instead of my originally planned 28" door and I can barely reach to the back. I plan on putting rerailers on the back straightaways just in case.

    3) Kato Unitrack really is bulletproof (so far). We were up and running in less than 10 minutes and we have had minimal issues with derailments.

    4) 12 3/4 radius curves handle 85' passenger cars and big six-axel diesels (SD70ACe) with no trouble. I was really worried about this but figured Kato wouldn't sell it with the starter set if it didn't work. The big cars do look a bit odd going around those tiny curves but mechanically I saw no issues with it. I still plan on using the biggest radius possible but I'm content for now.

    I'm planning on updating this post with my layout progress over the coming weeks/months/years. I can happily report that I've already delighted my boys with our new project and they can't get enough of watching and running the trains :)

    Here's a parting shot that I really liked of an SD70ACe on the layout:

    IMG_2212.jpg
     
  2. railnut49

    railnut49 TrainBoard Member

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    That's a good looking helper, or "engineer" you have there. way to go. Did you know that in the groups section is a group called the HcD broup? Stands for hollow core door, and is a nice place here to visit and get ideas. If you haven't already looked, try the trainboard groups and click on the HCD group. Using the 2" foam is a great way to go, the only way for me at least.
     
  3. Sierra117

    Sierra117 TrainBoard Member

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    Very very cool!!! I have a 4x8 and you can pack a lot of railroad into a small space with N scale. The whole key is to have fun with it. There are getting to be just as many products in N scale as there are in HO and in many cases I find that N scale is just more aesthetically pleasing. I also use Kato Unitrack and I love it. It is by far my favorite sectional track. As for your DCC, when you get close to choosing a system, I would recommend the NCE PowerCab. It is very user friendly and my 5 year old can run it with very little trouble. He regularly runs trains on my layout and will blow the whistles and ring the bell on my Big Boy and my Challenger. I will dig up the video of him playing with it later if you guys are interested (its on my YouTube channel, my username is 35E10).
     
  4. tasun_eq

    tasun_eq TrainBoard Member

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    Brian,

    I had my eye on the NCE PowerCab so I was very happy to hear that your 5 year old can operate it.

    A question on power distribution - should I add extra Unitrack feeders throughout the layout? What is a good amount for my HCD? Do I need to isolate them in some way? If I have let's say 2 feeders running to the PowerCab will it just give me some redundancy? Any other benefits?

    - Mark
     
  5. nscalerone

    nscalerone TrainBoard Member

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    A good "rule of thumb" for Unitrack is:
    1) drop feeders about every three to four feet
    2) feed every leg of every turnout

    Drop feeders to a common "bus" wire ( for a small layout - 20ga feeders & 16ga "buss" (lamp-cord) should be fine. I like to "color code" my wiring, simply because it makes it easier to work with down the road.
    I don't use the "Kato" feeders, because I find they are needlessly expensive. Feeders can be soldered to the side of rail. Only two "track power" wires go to the "PowerCab".
    I have a room sized "Unitrack" layout, with 13 foot staging yard..........and you will NOT be disappointed with your choice of either "Unitrack" or "PowerCab" (that's the system I use, after MUCH frustration w/ others).
     
  6. rg5378

    rg5378 TrainBoard Member

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    Congratulations on starting on your layout! There is nothing like getting to work on your empire. Looking foward to seeing more of your layout progress in the future.
     
  7. Avel

    Avel TrainBoard Member

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    Congratulations, I have just started having fun too. Just Unitrack on a 30" wide door + a 12" door side by side.
     
  8. Sierra117

    Sierra117 TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Mark, the PowerCab is very easy and in fact, my little boy has been operating it for two years now. He started when he was three. Back then it was just blowing whistles, ringing bells, and controlling the throttle on a single train, but now he can switch between the two trains and do all the functions and such. He is a really smart kid! :tb-biggrin: As for my wiring, I have about 18 feeders wired into terminal strips and then just the one set of wires going from my terminals to the PowerCab. Nscalerone is right though. The Kato feeders are pretty expensive and if you are good with a dremel and a soldrering iron I can show you a darn nice way how to hide your feeders and use some standard 18 gauge wire. That's what I'm using for feeders in the spots where I'm not using Kato feeders and it's working quite nicely for me. Anyway, here is the video of my kiddo and in the vid he says "Daddy, I'm gonna blow the whistle on that train." And then at the end you can faintly hear the whistle on my Big Boy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hXZ...xt=C33ead55UDOEgsToPDskLIaaE3VSu0hHzwvIK-5ldO
     
  9. tasun_eq

    tasun_eq TrainBoard Member

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    Avel,

    Do you have any pictures of your work in progress? I'm still trying to get some ideas on what to put in the middle of my layout.

    - Mark
     
  10. N-Jineer

    N-Jineer TrainBoard Member

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    Before you go soldering and cutting to add feeders, check out this link that was posted here on Trainboard a few years back - hell of a lot simpler and no risk of track damage

    http://sites.google.com/site/josephbales/unitrackfeedertutorial

    I don't have a permanent layout - yet so I'm using Unitrack and the NCE Powercab; my daughters never had any trouble using the PowerCab when they were younger.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 28, 2012
  11. nscalerone

    nscalerone TrainBoard Member

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    If you are referring to the method that jams the feeder wires into the connectors, it's not worth the trouble. Causes track lift at the sections, and is inherently prone to breakage. I know I tried it! That, and the cost (and poor construction of the Kato feeders), is what led me back to doing it the old fashioned way. Properly soldered to the side of the rail, the feeders will NOT break. There is no cutting(??) involved, just drill a small hole right next to the rail for feeder, and when done correctly, it all but disappears.
    Trying to give good advice, learned through experience on a permanent layout, but it is your layout, and your choice................do what suits you best, and the best of luck.
     
  12. Avel

    Avel TrainBoard Member

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 28, 2012
  13. Avel

    Avel TrainBoard Member

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  14. tasun_eq

    tasun_eq TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you for all of the feedback - it is very helpful. I suppose it's time to invest in a soldering iron :) In the meantime, I've ordered a few more Unitrack feeders (expensive, I know) but it is a quick solution.

    Avel - What's the radius on your curves? I like the yard in the front idea and may try that.

    Here's an update on the layout, we have a siding now!!

    IMG_2216.jpg

    Still having a blast

    - Mark
     
  15. ch3360

    ch3360 TrainBoard Member

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    Great thread and information. I to am just getting started and I purchased a Unitrack M2 master set with the hopes of adding 3-4 of the variation sets very soon.

    Also was going back and forth between NCE and Digitrax. Ordered the NCE and I think it will meet my needs (3-4 N scale loco's).

    Chris
     
  16. Avel

    Avel TrainBoard Member

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    outer curve is a 15" with the 18"something easements, inner curve is the 13"something with the 15" curves as easements. When I say easements I mean a larger radius section on each end where it transitions to a straight, so it eases the train into the curve. The part opposite the yard has straights with 28" radius curves for "visual appeal" purposes. Also the layout surface is 42" by 80" sitting on a plastic table.
     
  17. Sierra117

    Sierra117 TrainBoard Member

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    Chris, I doubt you will be disappointed with the PowerCab. I regularly run 2-3 loco consists with another train running on the other track as well as a half dozen other locos (including a few with sound) sitting idle on sidings all at the same time, so having 3 or 4 locos is well within the realm of what it can handle.
     
  18. ken G Price

    ken G Price TrainBoard Member

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  19. tasun_eq

    tasun_eq TrainBoard Member

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    Question of the day:

    I'm starting to plan industries and rail traffic for my layout. As I mentioned in my first post I'm loosely basing my railroad on the BNSF in the Pacific Northwest (somewhere around Portland and Spokane). I'm not interested in staying strictly prototypical - I would just like to stay plausible for the general area and generate some operating interest. What types of industries and traffic would be appropriate for this area?

    So far I'm planning on having:

    1) Amtrak's Portland section of the Empire Builder (perfect size for my small pike)
    2) Intermodal traffic - I have several sets of Kato Maxi-IVs. I would like to have a small intermodal facility.
    3) Coal unit train (I love the unit train look - even if coal isn't the most prototypical for this area from what I understand) Perhaps this can be a run-through train to Portland of Seattle for export?
    4) Some mixed freight trains (variety is the spice of life)
    5) ???

    Not really sure on industries - what generates a lot of traffic yet remains plausible for a HCD? A Paper Mill? Some type of lumber operation?

    I'm definitely including an interchange track.

    I'm expecting a shipment of Unitrack today so I'll be posting some more progress shots soon.

    - Mark
     
  20. Avel

    Avel TrainBoard Member

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    Are you going to use another smaller door for some staging tracks? like a 1' wide door.
    Also I tried that wire in the rail joiner idea, but I used that coated wire. It's super thin and won't loosen the joiners or raise the track if you lay track over it. I got some off of an old computer fan motor. Longest run I have so far is 1', and with three engines held down and the Powercab showing .5 amps the wire handles everything just fine.
     

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