I agree with Shaun, solder the joints before laying the track. Also it is best NOT to have the joints line up side by side on a curve. Try to stagger the joints by a few inches. And yes glueing the track will also help......Mike
My issue is both peices of flex are connected to a section of snaptrack... so I can't stagger them, maybe I just need to get more flex and skip the snaptrack?
Why not ditch the snap track? Trust me, in the long run, it will be worth it. I would personally ONLY use snap track for small sections, like where you need a 2" or 3" piece on the end of a siding.
Joining dissimilar track is difficult; although I'm so doing, I can't recommend it. Currently making up a small pike with Peco c55, c80 flex & switches and some fixed c80 11" radius curves (maybe Atlas.) Find that matching overall height requires carefull support under some c55 ties at the joins. At the curves I (now) lay the flex tangent to the curved pieces so the join is "squared up." Didn't at first. That is what seems to be wrong at the two derail points, the flex is ever so slightly mis-aligned with the fixed radius. Another issue might be some slight "twist" at the joint, like the joining pieces each were superelevated but to different amounts. As others suggest, could solder the joint first then fit the composite piece to the desired curve. Wouldn't know as I don't solder most joints. If the pieces fit w/o stress the Peco joiner does all that's needed.
Well I took the above advice as a collective and managed to iron out the derailing issues. I have done some more work and all but completed the track work meaning.... I CAN RUN TRAINS!!!! I thought I had some pictures kicking around, but for now, here's a video of me scratching my head as to why my DC loco won't kick over a Digitrax AR1 auto-reverse module... problem already realized. Notice I installed a Kato single-track tressle, a nice specimen. I'll be sure to get some pictures and video of some trains running soon... thanks for looking
Well I had a few minutes before work today to take this short video of the SD70M pulling some freight around the "roundy-round" mainline. (click thumbnail to open it) Next step is to finish wiring, and a get my Digitrax Zephyr up and running...
Well it has been a while. My trend seems to be as cold weather hits, I find myself in the basement again working away. Hard to believe I haven't really been up to anything since March, but given the mild winter earlier this year I can't say I'm suprised. Anyway I blew the dust off the layout (figuratively), cleaned up the track, and started stacking foam. Pics will do the talking. I really didn't have a plan in mind per se, but I was hoping to have a nice mountainous layout with rolling hills like you would see in the Appalachians. I plan on using a rasp and sculpamold to smooth things out, and also to use plaster cloth to form the "rockier" portions. There will be a small town, as well as a more rural area. I also plan to have the mountain visually area to the left of the return loop. Bear wth me as I am still somewhat a beginner, but I have set the bar higher for myself compared to layouts of the past. Thanks for looking, and updates will be coming at a faster rate soon. -Josh Also, in the next day or so, I plan to pick up some better lighting. Nothing permanent since I rent, but I figure a few trouble lights with "Natural Light" bulbs will make for better pictures.
And Josh said: "Let there be light! And it was good" Threw a couple shop lights up over the layout. Definately lights my work better, and the pictures are better lit. Meanwhile NS 2608 pulls a consist through what appears to be a Neptunian landscape...
That looks like a really nice start to a layout. You got plenty of room to add some rolling hills and other scenery. Running trains is the best way to get motivated and learn where you need to work on next. One thing i suggest if is you are wanting to put a backdrop behind your layout, now is the time. For ideas about scenery, find a place where NS runs to be inspired. You don't have to copy prototype scenes but looking at prototype photos can really help give you an idea what kind of scenery you want to model.
Thanks for the tips. Always appreciated... I guess the history behind NS is that Southern, Conrail and Norfolk Western merged to form NS. Something along those lines... in any case, my region (Mid-atlantic) sees it fair share of trains. There is a huge NS yard in Harrisburg, PA (Old Conrail yard, and I guess PRR before that), so I see NS trains on a daily basis. A lot of our local railroads seem to be cut out of mountains along rivers, and they also seem to run along major routes as well, since the area was cleared for the roads, or vice-versa. Anyway I'm going to give the viewer a feeling of the region, so the rails will run along rock faces that were blasted to make room for the rails. If that makes sense? So, I went to work with a rasp for the first time... any tips are much appreciated!!! All ShopVac-ed up
Well another day off, so I spent some more time in the basement. Today I tried out some Sculpt-a-mold. I was definately taken back at first, as I thought sculp-a-mold was more like a powdered plaster, but it turns out it's more like fine paper particles mixed with plaster. So upon mixing everything up it was a bit chunky, but a putty knife smoothed it out pretty well. I used it as a filler for the gaps in the foam layers. I'm hoping things aren't TOO smooth as most mountains are not. But I'm going to play things by ear to see how things will look. I'm also kind of curious to see how the stuff works in the WS rock molds.
Geez, I feel like I'm talking to a wall, lol. No attaboys fellas? :teeth: Anyways, I decided to play around with casting rocks tonight. I went up to English's (you know the one connected to the Bowser building) and picked up some Hydrocal. I used WS's Hydrocal for my first layout and had a good experience so I figured I'd give this another whirl. I picked up a larger, more economical version of Hydrocal from a Pa supplier. One things for sure, this stuff sets quick. I used the 2:1 ratio, and no sooner did I add Slate Grey pigment to the mixture, the darn stuff started to set. So I finished mixing up the batch and tried to pour it into the mold and it clung to my container. So I used my tongue depresser to slosh lumps of the stuff into my mold and tamped it down. Well, I'm still waiting to see if the stuff is going to be too brittle, or if its full of air pockets. I think that "goof proof" was a bit of an overstatement. I'm guess I'm the one "goof" that proved them wrong. I had to throw half of my first batch out as it was a complete loss as I tried frantically to lump it into the molds. Second time around I mixed a smaller batch and didn't add the water until my pigment was in. It still was a bit thick at the 2:1 ratio, and the container suggests using a bit of vinegar to extend the set time. I'm going to try that method once my molds are free again. All in all the value of the above brand is pretty decent compared to the $10 smaller WS offering, so it doesn't disappoint, although I won't make that call for sure until i get a good look at these castings. Also lusting after this: I see overtime in my future... Until next time...
Attaboy! Looking better every posting. And you should be lusting after that engine. It is a normal response to seeing Conrail blue.
Well, I did a LOT more foam work, and as I worked I brainstormed about where I'd like to go with terrain and what will occupy it. Everything is tentative of course. Also, I decided to re-arrange some things. As you can see above, I added sidings to the front of the east side of the layout. I made the decision to dismantle my mini-yard. The location will keep the fueling and sanding facility, and most of the area empty flat area will be a large man-made lake with tributaries. I am also toying with the idea of a farm in the area somewhere, but haven't decided.
Well, I sort of got wrapped up in an SD40-2 Highnose bash lately, but since I'm waiting on parts I decided the layout needed some more attention. More rasping, Sculptamold, and then some plaster cloth. One thing I learned the hard way (kind of) was to lay plaster cloth before roadbed. I was forced to cut the cloth into very small strips to cover the WS subterrain system, and to not interfere with my nicely smoothed out foam-work. Some pictures of the East-side of the layout: Happy Thanksgiving!!!
Today, I began to use contact cement to start gluing down my rails. This desperately needed to be done, as foam roadbed likes to stretch so rail tacks only hold down felxtrack for so long before things begin to kink, etc. One thing I knew was on my list of things to do was to build a bit of an abuttment or a retaining wall under my trestle. Given that I had soldered the joiners from the trestle to the outer loop, I wanted to pour my wall before I glued everything down. Anyway, using CA and some styrene, I build a simple mold. I then poured in some Hydrocal. I was going to go with a smooth concrete look, but wanted to try a blockwork pattern first (figuring I could always sand it down and paint it if I decided I wanted a concrete look). A few minutes to dry and some time "carving" and this is what I came up with. I also plan on adding caps to the top before everything is painted up. I plan on filling the air pockets on the wall with some extra hydrocal, although some of the smaller spots make it look like the wall has seen better days.
Ok, a little bit more carving done before I head off to work. Not too bad, although the face of the wall turned out mch sharper looking than this side. The only explanation I can come up with is I cut the horixontal lines while the plaster was still a bit fresh. I'm sure it will look a lot more impressive once painted.
The stone work looks good, looks like the frost heave tore out some stone that MOW will need to replace ... I use tempra ( no dust ) powder to color my plaster/s and about one tbl spoon of 5% vin to cup of water helps . mix the dry powder either with the water first or the plaster/s first , be sure to do a test first thing so you know what you will be getting. The plaster cloth needs rubbed good to get rid of the gaps and erase the " grain " lines , other wise you may spend a lot of time filling in the holes ... Layout is comming a long and looks to be a good one !!
