I tried to upload some Pic's about my Schnabelcar. I was not lucky! ;-( It don't work!!!! Her a linck: http://www.trainweb.org/kvo/DB839.html
Back on November 18, I was going to photograph some of my Trix freight cars for this thread and my camera wouldn't focus. It was a Nikon Coolpix L18. Lens wouldn't retract either. I jimmied all the controls and it said "Lens error." I tried shooting pictures of my Trix cars in my scanner and that was a disaster—but i posted a couple anyway. Here is one as an example-- a BAD one. Not only did it not take a “picture” but I imaged the wrong side of the car. Today, I checked out the ads in the Sunday paper and bought a newer model Nikon Coolpix, an L24. So I had to try it out, and with no further ado, here are some of my Trix This is a Trix 3-bay covered hopper painted and lettered for Santa Fe, with end brake air reservoir details Added from various styrene scraps, and a brake air line mounted on side sill to dodge outlet hoppers. Trix caboose painted as a Santa Fe waycar. The "figure" in the cupola is a piece of wire with the insulation removed to make a smaller segment for the head. And this is a Trix boxcar modified into a box tank, AAR Mechanical Designation XT, with a straight side sill instead of the usual trapezoidal gussets on the side sill, and a small manway door on the end of the car. And painted for Linde and decalled with a multi-roads decal from Microscale.
Pictures came out well. I have an old Nikon Coolpix I am still using. I purchased it because of the macro capability. I don't know what I will do when I need a new one.
I guess if I am giving up on my old Nikon Coolpix, I put it in my bin of old stuff to cannibalize for possible N scale detail parts. The junk in my photo diorama scene includes some of the innards of a defunct blood-sugar testing device.
Just a little modifyed H12-44..... Back dated it a little, by adding the rear overhand to the cab, removed the SP light package and filled the holes, removed the old hand rails, and filled the holes where they old rails attached, new end rails, closed the pilots, added footboards, relocated the horn(Not in the shot), Body Mounted MT 1015s, new bell on the front (not in the shot), Removed the grey window inserts, and painted the frame around the windows black, milled a decoder space, Mine didn't have a light so I added one and milled down the lenses to mount flush with the headlight bezel. I still plan on replacing the tiard old motor with a atlas slow speed 5 pole. Right now it works pretty damn good, nice and slow with the decoder installed, but the motor is deffinetly tiard and needs to be replaced. I also have a old B6b with a decoder, I dont' have any pictures of that though.
This is the "Woodsman's Axe" F7. This is the "original" F-unit I got used in 1972 that started me....well....it now has another body shell on it that was repainted back in the 70's, and the motor was replaced with a Sagami.....but yeah, I think the wheels are still original and now quite worn. It's been 'stored serviceable' since I replaced it with an Intermountain. Added a proper fuel tank, grabs, closed in the nose, GMM steps, etc., then promptly stored it! Until Intermountain introduced the ATSF cabooses, almost my entire fleet was rebuilt Trix ones. They had the right truck centers, unlike Atlas. That's walthers decals from long, long ago. The majority of my fleet is still these. Other than the windows, they still compare nicely.
Hi Lou I am a newcomer to train board.and have a question .My wife gave me a minitrix vintage decapod about20 years ago and never opened the box .I would like to run it but tender wheels and electrical connections are not familiar to me,could you give me some advice,thanks tooth2800
Is it all wired and connected together? I was thinking that was the case or is the engine and tender separate?
This is about the best run down on that loco you can get. http://www.spookshow.net/decapod.html As stated in his review there are two versions all involving tender pick-up with the two wire being the newer version. It is not to hard to convert the single wire and drawbar wiper to two wire tender pick-up but the most improvement would come from simply replacing the tender with a Bachmann tender. The issue of the drawbar could be resolved by simply sleeving the loco drawbar post with a section of styrene tube cut to length and then connecting with the Bachmann drawbar using the two wires for current transfer from the tender. A simpler option than trying to change out the tender trucks for Bmann or Kato ones plus you have a selection of tenders depending on what road you model. The only code 55 that this will run on is Peco because of wheel flanges.
I have no pictures of my old Trix locomotives as I got out of N scale in the late 70's, but I will say that some of them were the only decent running locomotives at the time. The majority of the other brands available at the time were what I would call rather crude and very poor running locomotives. Not anything like what is available today. I probably would still be in N scale if today's locomotives were available back then.
Trix Decapod to PRR L1s conversion: Trix K4 to PRR E6 conversion: Trix Decapod to PRR H10sa conversion: Trix B6 to PRR B8a (See you and ante Lou D) LOL!
Don't have a picture at this exact moment, but I have one of the old diesel 0-6-0 siderod switchers from a European prototype that just started smoking and seized up one day. Not sure what was smoking since it has the old brass gearing, so have to assume it was the wiring.
Thanks Larry. I think the SLSF was the only railroad that I model that purchased any of the "Russians".
