Can anyone here offer a tip for removing decals without harming the underlying paint? I got some old used rolling stock and don't like the decals. Thanks, Greg
Are they actual decals? pr Factory prints? You might try using an industrial eraser rubbed on the model. Be careful not to scuff the model. If it;s a custom, You might also want to try Walthers Solvaset, and be EXTREMELY careful with it.
I use non-acetone fingernail polish remover with a cotton swab and paper towel. I use the paper towel to apply the nail polish remover to the decal then scrub it lightly with the cotton swab the wipe it up with the paper towel. Don't scrub it hard or you may take some paint off.
They're user applied decals. The shiny plastic film ones. Dang... I was hoping for something that would dissolve the decal glue without harming the paint.
Thanks, Jeffrey... Well... it looks like there isn't anything that will get the decal without also getting the paint.
Does Solvaset attack the paint? I use a lot of it when I apply the decals. It doesn't bother the paint then. Thanks.
I've used Poly Scale's ELO with great results. But any of the above tips also work. You just have to use them lightly with a little elbow grease using a q-tip. Just check the label to make sure what you're using doesn't dissolve your model. And I strongly advise people not to use brake fluid. Don't laugh, some have tried to use it with disasterous results.
Thanks for your suggestions... I ended up using brake fluid. I had used it on Qtips to remove factory printed lettering, and at first it had no visible effect on the plastic film decals. But after I left it on a while longer, they finally did come off leaving the paint unscathed. Greg
Yes, it can. It's all in how skillfully you use it. It did end up dulling a pair of Walthers cars I used it on, but was fine on Athearn models. As one who watched a model disintegrate with Poly Scale, I highy encourage checking the label. Again, it's about being careful, and testing as you go. Don't let my pessimism get in the way. Decal's gone though!
My models worked fine with the ELO. I've used it on Kato, Proto 2000, and Atlas. Like I said, a little dab on the end of a q-tip. the isopropyl alcohol trick works too.
I'm just curious what type of brake fluid we're taking about here. I've found some Easy-Flo (I believe...) heavy duty hydraulic brake fluid sitting around, but it sounds like it might be particularly aggressive! I'm still fairly mystified that brake fluid doesn't eat plastics, considering how corrosive it is on other things
Depends on who makes the pad printed stuff. Bachmann sometimes comes off with Tamiya Air brush thinner. However, my favorite method is with Solvaset and an Artist's eraser. It worked wonders on my GG1! It is nearly impossible to see the Penn Central logo. I cannot get it to show up in photos and it can only be seen if you hold it in the light in a particular way, and its not all there.
Be Mystified not! For it can and does eat plastics. It's just how long th application is on, and the type of Plastic. It goes through Kato shells like a hot knife through Butter, but the Athearn Blueboxes are surporiseingly resilient. Even still, brake Fluid should be left in the brakes.
That's what I have always assumed, although I've heard many people swear by using brake fluid as a stripper. It has always intimidated me. I do like the above suggestion of using Solvaset with an eraser: I do have a couple locos that I just want to squeak the decals off of while keeping the paint scheme (hopefully) undamaged.