Hi, my first layout has been made using atlas code 80 track. I have not been wildly happy with it, having points that were not in spec and poorly made, but I've now got everything working acceptably after a lot of filing shoving and bending!! I have now run in to a maintenance issue - the track seems to need cleaning every couple of days. I can thoroughly clean it - acetone seems to work well, better than alcohol, but I've used each regularly. Am I doing something wrong using a solvent? Is there some product that would clean but somehow "protect" the track from what I can only assume as a newbe is oxidation? Trains seem to stutter of a piece of track, If I then clean that section, the trains run perfectly.... Are other brands of track like Kato or Peco less prone to "oxidation" which brands need less cleaning? Do "cleaning" carriages work? cheers Gary
Where is your layout located? Basement, garage, bedroom? How often do you run it? Isn't acetone a little toxic to use indoors? I use 90% isopropal alcohol or a blue liquid cleaner sold by lifelike. What ever liquid you use it must be removed completely. Do not use goo gone. I also run a slider car with a masonite pad under the car in each train I run. They pickup a lot of crud. I have heard that Kato Uni-Track is made of different metal that resists oxidation better than Atlas or Peco, but I haven't had any problems with my atlas flex or Peco switches with the exception of dust. The slider car helps a lot and running the layout more often is better. It could be due to the environment of the room where your layout is located.
Thanks, the layout is located indoors in a corner of a loungeroom, so garage dust and dirt isn't a problem. I generally have a run for 1/2 an hour a day. The acetone is OK in a largish room with good ventilation - I'm Careful and don't use heaps! I use it because it seemed better at "cleaning" than the alcohol.. The slider car interests me... can you make them yourself or do you need to buy them? Gary
You have to clean your wheels at the same time, or crap will transfer from the wheels back to the track. MH
Definitely check your wheels. If they are dirty your track will become dirty in no time which sounds like the problem you are having. The slider under the car is easy to make. There was an article in MRH. Here you go here is a link. MRH 2009/Q3 Track Cleaning Slider Car Here is a link to download the whole magazine. MRH issue 03 - July 2009 | Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine Alan.
No-Ox ID This stuff was developed for electrical terminations, but is magic for rails. I applied this over a year ago and have NEVER cleaned the rails since. Some vacuuming and general clean up, but never a DCC hesitation due to the track. Bar Mills carries it. I got a whole tube from Sanchem. http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html http://barmillsmodels.com/dailymoose_05_09.html
My slider cars are homemade. I used 1/8 inch masonite that I saved from the bottoms of wooden boxes that Clementine Oranges come in. I used box cars with one piece metal floors and drilled holes in them for the nails. In the picture you can see the crud that the pads pick up. Believe it or not, dust is everywhere, even in the cleanest of rooms.
I wanted to test No-ox so I noted the date I applied it: 01 Mar 2010. I haven't cleaned track since. I wipe or vacuum sometimes, but no more track cleaning. I dd not "gleam" the track first, but that would probably improve results.
I use CAIG DeoxIT unlike a silicone grease, (No-OX) it is a liquid. I clean the rails and then use a swab to apply a very thin coat to the top of the rails. It not only protect it also chemically improves the electrical contact. I have appied this to locos that have sit for a couple years that would not run, thats was all thats was need to bring the locos back to life. I now appy this to brand new locos so I don't have to worry about the electrical contacts. This also works great for switch contact, (Peco turnouts), being a liquid it will penetrate were a grease will not, and a million other things around the house.
What type of DeoxIT are you using? Looks like the "Gold" version would be the correct one to use on turnouts. Thanks.
I use both the Red and Gold. The Gold I use on clean surfaces, the Red I use on dirty or corroded surfaces. I purchased a sample pack to try them out and was amazed at how well they worked.
John, I read your post, and I was just curious as to why you "remove all plastic wheel sets”. Does the no-ox damage the plastic? If so, I think I’d be concerned about the well say the code 55 rail spikes since they are so close to the top of the rail. I haven't used No-Ox, but I'm interested in trying it. I am concerned about my Atlas C55 track and 46 turnouts and I don’t want to take any chances on damaging them.
I use plastic MT pizza cutters and have no trouble. I don't clean wheels unless the car starts to wobble. The plastic wheels have no effect on the track conductivity with No-ox. My two cents.
Hey rrjim1, What specific Caig Deoxit do you use? There seems to be some many different choices there Caig site. Gold and Red - part # Thanks, JSL
Hi I took notice of a post last week (Ithink) where a club was using Automatic transmission Fluid to clean their track, and applied it once a week to maintain it! I am going to try it....I have a lot of hidden track that is difficult to get at and the ATF will spread itself. Jim
There is no negative effects on plastic per say. I like to use metal wheels because they do not generate static that attracts more gunk and I always thought it would create more problems. Once the no-ox is dry for 24 hours and the excess is wiped off I add the plastic wheels back onto the layout. For me its about a dozen cars. This is something I do, but it looks like Flash has no issues with his plastic wheels. If you ask me, and its only my opinion, the metal wheels help break up anything that has stuck to the rails and serves as a very slight polisher on the rails. I know there are liquid applicators to make it easier to apply the transmission fluid once a week, but with no-ox you may have to re-apply after 5 years. That comes out to 259 less applications and the small jar from Bar Mills will last you and 10 other large layouts a lifetime. I also add a miniscule amount to contacts on locos including the wheel contacts and tabs. Just about anything that may be open to the elements in any way like a garage layout would have to deal with.
I’ve heard of that, but I sure wouldn't want to do that. I remember having a very small transmission leak in an old car and dirt seemed to always find its way to those drops. I kept the car in the garage and was constantly cleaning that dreaded spot up until I finally replaced a gasket. And for what I think was months, dirt still accumulated there.
That is why it has to be applied every week. RailZip and GooGone has similar qualities, if you want to call them that.
The RED is D100L, the GOLD is G100L. I purchased the web site sample kit, ( #K2C: 2cc Squeeze Tubes), to give it a try. Really these tubes will last a long time, I have sense only had to purchase the D100L in a small bottle.
