Do I have this right?

So I have been lurking on this Narrow Gauge page for a bit, and I have to say that I am getting confused as to what all of the narrow gauges are. I don't plan on starting anything narrow gauge at the moment, but it definitely piques my curiosity.

Here is what I am thinking now:

H0n3 = Track spacing is 36" @ 1:87 scale
H0n30 = Track spacing is 30" @ 1:87 scale (9mm or N-gauge track)

H0n30 seems to be used to model the 2' lines in Maine. Isn't it a compromise to use track which has a 2'6" spacing? I am guessing that the compromise is made due to the cost of producing specialty 7mm gauge track and equipment.

I am also guessing that H0n30 is less expensive than H0n3 because N-scale drive mechanisms can be used.

Anyhow, I really ought not to think about this yet as I have a ridiculous amount of work to do on my 'just-started' N-scale layout. Just curious because it could be a fun in-between project to scratchbuild some rolling stock.

Cheers,

 

You've got it right. HOn30 generally relies on N scale track and mechanisms while HOn3 is mostly dominated by some rather expensive (but very nice) imports at this time. HOn30 folks can use N scale track, hand-lay or use track and turnouts from Peco. Micro Engineering used to sell HOn30 flex track but has discontinued it.

Some of the newer offerings in N scale steam would make a nice starting point for an HOn30 loco. HOn30 seems to be dominated by Main 2-footers but could also be used to model the whimsical lines that are popular with the On30 crowd.

 

Thanks guys for the clarification, back to lurking I go until I get restless and try a scratchbuild. :tb-rolleyes:

 

You can get H0n3 engines and cars with good price and quality. For engines I like Blackstone, they're ready to run and have sound!
Turnouts can you get from different manufacturers. I like my own. :angel:

Wolfgang

 

Blackstone is awsome for engines, but till some smaller power gets on the market, my roster is brass. Tight curves and bridge restrictions of the prototype restricted my branch to C16 and C21 class consolidations. And the year I plan to model is just C16's 268 and 278 working the final years of that line. Car kits are not shake the box, but any good modeler with some patience can build a satisfactory model. I use Railline, Tomalco and Labelle. I enjoy the old wood kits so the Labelle kits are my favorite. I use Micro Engineering track and turnouts only. I have tried the shinohara and wasnt happy with the turnout quality and they are not DCC ready. The new turnouts from Micro Engineering are DCC ready. You can check out Locodoc's website, go under HOn3 conversions to see reviews on which models have issues with their drive train and which ones to avoid. Most of the older brass just need simple can motor conversion to bring thier operation into the dcc world. While the new models are great, they are a major PITA to work on and take appart for service. My older brass takes 3 screws and maybe the removal of the pilot truck to remove the whole superstructure off the chassis for service. Look for the older Japanese built models in general, the build quality is better overall, even if you have to install a can motor or have someone do this for you. Cheers Mike

 

I agree with Boxcab E50 on this one. Wolfgang, I ran across some photos of your trackwork when I did a Google Image search for H0n3. You do make it look easy!

Thanks Mike and Wolfgang for some ideas of where to look for locomotives and rolling stock. It is something I will have to keep an eye out, in case something of a good deal comes across the table.

Cheers,
Ben