It depends on the computer speaker and the type of input you are using. Most older aftermarket computer speakers use a miniplug input (same size as a headphone jack) rather than RCA plugs. I long ago disconnected the speakers from my computer at work so I could connect them to my music player through the headphone jack. Be careful because newer speakers use a USB connection for power. If you can set up a compatable input, I think computer speakers are an excellent idea as they have their own built in amplifier. You could probably pick up used ones cheap, too. You would have to use them in pairs, though. Andy Tetsu Uma
"If you can set up a compatable input, I think computer speakers are an excellent idea as they have their own built in amplifier" I have connected my computer ALTEC LANSING SYSTEM 2100 (extra bass box + two satellite speakers) directly on a TSUNAMI decoder : the sound is terrific ! You can "hear" the result here ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yGVhO2Y8G0 ). The SW1 has a TCS "Z2" decoder inside and the TSUNAMI decoder is outside, with the same "adress" number. I'll use this technic for my future Z scale layout.
I actually have a couple pair of computer speakers with pin jacks on them. When I get to the point where I am employing the sound system, I'll give it a try but I'll have to strip the wires because my sound system takes bare wires put into clip fasteners in the back of the main unit. Thanks for the idea. Andy
Joe, I was going to reply earlier but since it is going to be a long post I got lazy. First the disclaimer: you could destroy your decoder in trying to do this modification The problem with sound decoders is the power amplifier takes a lot of power to drive the speakers, it usually uses a Class A amplifier which is not energy efficient. When there is a power interruption the digital sound chip also resets and it takes a while (maybe up to a second or more) before it becomes functional. This is very annoying to a listener to have the sound go off for a second and restart at a different point. You have two options one to hold power to the amplifier, when the power from the tracks are interrupted. Or hold the voltage just to the sound chip (usually 5V) so the sound interruption will not be for so long, it will sound like a loose speaker wire when it goes over dirty track. I used tantalum capacitors which has good capacitance to size form factor and connected it to the power after the bridge diode. On the decoder there is a bridge rectifier and I just added all the capacitors I could fit in the enclosure after the diodes, the cap was rated for 10V and I have to make sure I don’t exceed that voltage at the track. The disadvantage of tantalum capacitors are sometimes they can explode if there are flaws in the cap and if the charge current is not limited. Also you have to make sure the bridge diode on the decoder can handle the surge current to charge the cap. One way around this is to build your own bridge diode and connect to the cap to your bridge and input to the diodes from the track. To maintain the voltage to the sound chip only is quite easy, the voltage is usually 5V and a single 100uf cap can hold the sound chip powered for seconds. You may have some issues to reset the chip, you might have to hold it un powered for a few seconds to reset their chip. I have a NCE decoder from Rob, I can post pictures on where you can tap off from that decoder. I was hoping to make a DC-DC converter using a super cap but the problem is the power in and out are at the same location making it a little tricky. Kim
Kim, thanks for the additional info. For the time being I ended up getting an MRC synchro sound 1025 (like the one Robert posted about, but this one does both steam and diesel). I like that it can be used for both DC and DCC. (I'm using mine with DCC) For $53 including shipping from Amazon, this is the most economical route for me to go until I get more serious with sound. I have an NCE powercab, and the only tricky thing with the MRC box is that the NCE "option" button needs programed to operate as a function button to access all the sound functions. I didn't realize that the factory default on the NCE (at least on mine) is set as a stop button (which is an emergeny stop for the loco). Took me close to 2 hours to everything working right. For the money this thing is great. It has multiple diesel and steam bells and horns as well as other detailed sounds (air release, exhaust), etc. The speaker is ok for what I need it for right now, but I'll eventally swith it to something else. For anyone looking for an economical sound solution with a fairly easy installation, this is definitely a great option. Joe
Another option is JMRI with a new app coming out called "VSDecoder" . Its a "virtual sound decoder". I have it running on my system and its pretty cool. "Twindad" programed it. Check out his video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Tgzz72Y0ao
Garth, I'm with you that. Jim 'Mad Dog' Manley and I were up at the California State RR Museum for their big anniversary. They were moving the E-8 when I was stupid enough to yell up the Engineer, "hey, no horn wheh you're backing up?" YEOW ! was that 5 horn LOUD! Don't think we would get buy with that indoors at the shows. .
