Hey everyone how hard is it to remove the decals from an atlas train ? I want to get a genset switcher and I cant seem to find any undecorated ones online. I want a black one with CP in white lettering. sO i figured I would get a NS version and remove the lettering and add some CP decals ??? thanks for any help
Decal removal HI AND MERRY CHRISTMAS: Can't remember brand name but there's product called Solvaset, which softens decals. Check with your LHS and see if they stock it. Don't believe it would hurt loco paint, as it's used to 'float' decals into correct position on model car & loco sides; make them lay flat over rivets, other details. Hope this helps...Old tom aka papasmurf in NH
If it is painted on lettering then I have had success with orange hand cleaner with pumice. spread it on the lettering with your finger, wait ten minutes and try rubbing it off. If it doesn't come off try twenty minutes etc. It will take off the lettering without removing the paint underneath.
It has been my experience that Solvaset is a hit or miss deal. When possible, I have soaked Solvaset on lettering and it comes off, usually rubbing with a NONabrasive soft cloth after soaking. Usually, this will take off the painted lettering and not the base coat of paint. HOWEVER, sometimes (depending on the manufacturer and process), Solvaset won't touch it. In that case, I soak in Brake Fluid, and scrub w/ an old toothbrush. Then you will have to repaint the whole model. I have also had success with alcohol but you must REALLY BE CAREFUL not to leave it on long and let it "attack" the plastic.
No. I meant plastic. There is a difference in the make-up of the packaging of alcohol and models. Alcohol is not packaged in a rigid styrene. Some make-ups of modeling plastic are just not compatible to isopropyl alcohol. The effect usually is not immediate, but left exposed to the rigid modeling plastic too long and the alcohol can damage the plastic. Plastics have all sorts of different compounds just like metals can be made of many different alloys. Each with their own strengths, weaknesses, and tolerances. There is a vast array of plastics and associated materials. Each has a different tolerance to various chemicals.
I have never had a mishap with 91% damaging shells, I've left one in for 3 months and never had problems. Have you had a different experence?
In 24 years of painting models, only a few times. Never left anything on for 3 months though! The few times I have had damage it wasn't as extensive as say a "solvent", but when airbrushing, it can still be noticeable. Alcohol can work and do a good job. My point is to be very careful with it.
Never had issues using 91% in stripping paint. But that's for the entire unit. I've found that Atlas' Pad Printing comes off fairly easy with Pine Sol. Just use a Q-tip, and start rubbing. This is an Atlas unit I applied Pine Sol to the letter, but wanted just a little of the old lettering showing the unit's heritage.
