New to Z Scale!

Hey there fellow Z Scaler's,

Well, as the title reads, yes...I am new to Z Scale model railroading and can't wait to get started. While my main focus is constructing a new N Scale layout in a spare bedroom (seen on my blog), I have decided I would also like to construct my first Z Scale layout as a side project in my computer room/study. I don't know exactly what it is about Z Scale layouts, but they just give me that warm fuzzy feeling for some strange reason...like Christmas morning!

Anyway, as I had mentioned, I have never built benchwork for Z Scale and I am also unfamiliar with Z Scale track radii. So, what my plan is to take what I know in N Scale and basically shrink it down to Z Scale..? Right, so, what follows is what I have thought out thus far and would greatly appreciate any advice and information pertaining to Z Scale standards and any and all "constructive criticism" on my layout ideas:

While my study allows for enough extra space for a fairly large Z Scale layout, I would like to keep the dimensions of my benchwork around 2'x5'...I can even do a 2.5'x5' if need be for best looking radii and operating locomotive power and rolling stock. My benchwork will stand 3' in height only because I need the layout to sit just below a large picture window in my study. My base will be 1/2" thick sanded plywood with 2" thick extruded foam? The theme I would like to do is modern era diesel locomotive power through an appalachian foothills pass, perhaps during peak fall season or early winter with a light dusting of snow...using Norfolk Southern, Conrail, or CSX power. As of now, I only plan to incorporate 2 or 3 structures, plus a water tower, and I have no definite track plan, I am free lancing this operation and open to suggestions! I do however want a complete loop and perhaps a siding or two.

As I am very unfamiliar with Z Scale manufacturers locomotives, rolling stock, and their track, what I have selected so far in my mind is using Micro-trains products and their Z track w/ roadbed? Although I am not a huge fan of "plastic" roadbed, does Woodland Scenics make foam roadbed strips and ballast for Z Scale, let alone scenery for Z Scale? I would prefer to buy my track and ballast it myself and lay my own roadbed, whichever looks better in Z Scale. If you have made it this far into my mess, I congratulate you. Lastly, what are your thoughts on me purchasing Micro-trains Z Table Top Norfolk Southern Set and expanding/building off of that to start out with? I am more concerned about quality, not quantity, and have a fairly large budget to play around with on this side project, and it seems Micro-trains is up to my expectations...but what do I know? ​

 

Well, you ask a lot of questions.
Radius: You can get by with 12", but of course bigger looks better.
Roadbed: Itty Bitty lines makes cork. I have taken N scale foam and trimmed it down.
Track: MTL makes flex track. You can mix MTL sectional, turnouts (switches) and flex track quite easily.
Startup set: I started with one of those MTL loop sets also. The newer ones with the SD40-2 are cool. Now AZL makes great SD70s that pull like crazy.
Ballast: The finer the better. You can get by with N scale ballast.
Check out :http://zscalemonster.com

and DCC is getting really easy with Z scale now. Check out the Z-2 from TCS. I'm the one who put DCC with sound into a Challenger.

Also check out the Z bend module standard.

 

Here is a video I made with the ZoCal group. My Challenger pulling 50 PFE cars around our Z Bend modules. In the second scene, the train is going around a 10" radius turn as it turns back toward the camera.
http://vimeo.com/12696286

 

Micro trains is a great start for sure. The track is very reliable and the latest loco's, the GP 35/9/SD40-2's are fantatic and great runners. AZL makes a GP7 and SD70's that are very good as well. They cost a bit more but have more slender bodies per prototype and run to me just about the same as the MT.

I'd get some MT track and play around with different set ups and decide what you like. It is all very good stuff out there as a general rule.

 

Welcome to Z scale! I agree with all the above statements. In my opinion Micro-Trains and AZL locos are the best. Best runners, best look. Unfortunately no affordable prototype steamer for the moment even if things are due to change next year with the delivery of USRA Mikados, light and heavies. For rolling stock I would recommend the same manufacturers, and furthermore what comes from Full Throttle, FR Models, Intermountain that recently came into Z, etc.

However, just an idea: if you remain on DC system, one has to be very careful when time comes to choose a powerpack. Myself I started with a Marklin Miniclub powerpack but I quickly gave up because that sample delivers a starting voltage that is too high in my opinion: as soon as you open the throttle only a very little bit, your loco will jump ahead like a fiery horse, or like a F14 fighter beeing launched from USS Nimitz aircraft carrier. And the opposite when stopping down. However, most recently designed Z scale locos (AZL plastics, as well as Micro-Trains Geeps and SD40-2s) are definitly able to creep at a speed lower than a scale walking man's, provided they are used with proper power supply system. For this purpose I'm using a pack system from Oli Passmann in Germany ( http://www.passmann.com ), but if you're on the western side of the Pond it may be easier for you to purchase and use Zthek's system ( http://www.zthek.com ).

Dom

 

We called one of our sailors that got bit by an eel in Hawaii---Shark Bait
and an easy project--like calculus--Sand Box

 

David,

I think you meant to write/say cork not foam.

Chris

 

If you do DC, also make sure you use less than 9 volts. A standard power pack can go up to 14 volts and over 10 will fry the motor.

 

Welcome to Z scale.

I've been a z scaler now for almost 3 years having gotten started after seeing a layout at our local train show. I'm an old HO and N scaler from days gone by and I have to say without reservation is Z scale presents more challenges then the others I find.
I could tell you of a great many experiences I've had with my MTL and AZL engines and locos but I'm sure you will find out on your own. One thing I will say, is that there is good and poor quality of equipments from all manufacturers. If you get something that you feel is sub standard, don't be afraid to rattle a few cages. I have done that and gotten good results. I find that North American companies that manufacture z scale engines and cars, don't want complaints and are eager to resolve issues you might have with their products. So don't be afraid to contact the company CSR's and complain or better yet, go on here. Everyone here is extremely helpful in assisting in resolving problems so you don't have to go to the company directly. At least for the most part.
The biggest drawback I have with Z scale is that if you want something specific for you layout regardless of what it is, it is impossible to find in Z scale because no one makes it. I have discovered that with engines, cars, accessories, track and various other things. I have sometimes regretted getting into Z scale because I can't get the things I need in z that are very plentiful in all the other scales. It really is sad because it can limit your creativity in what you want to do. On my own layout I've had to change my basic theme because what I need isn't available from any z scale manufacturer. But one must make do with what is available.
My layout will encompass 15 modules all over my basement which is a project I will be working on over the next several years. I've got mucho denary invested in it now and I'm going to be sinvesting a lot more over the coming years, much to the dismay of my long suffering wife. (Women. They just have no sense of humour.)
I will admit their have been times when I've wanted to chuck the whole kit and caboodle and go back to HO or N. But after I have the time to calm down and look at the bigger picture, I'm able to get back to it and get the job done.
Z scale can be a big headache as I have found out. But it can also be a most enjoyable railroad hobby as well because you can do more with a small space then you can in the other scales.
So take your time, and enjoy it for all it has to offer. When you achieve your goal, you'll be damn proud of your accomplishment.

 

Not trying to high-jack the thread, but a quick question. Does micro trains make any of their non-flex track with a radius tighter than 195mm ? Also, is the micro trains track and the marklin track compatable?

 

MTL and Marklin tracks are compatible so I'm told. I use MTL exclusively with a couple of Marklin expander tracks. I've heard that Marklin turnouts work much better then MTL but the wiring is different. It seems that on MTL turnout there is a momentary power drop while crossing the frog but this doesn't occur with Marklin turnouts. On my own layout, I have noticed a very slight hesitation of my engines when crossing my MTL turnouts but it's so quick that you have to be really watching to see it. I don't consider it a big problem unless it leads to car uncoupling.
As for your other question MTL makes curve track in 45 degree radius both in long and short versions. I can't speak to the metric aspect of it.

 

Let me clarify this, the 195 mm is the radius of the curve. I think it matches marklin's 7 11/16 inch radius (or something like that). Marklin also makes curved track just under 6 inches in radius. I was wondering if MTL had something in that range of curvature.

 

Rokuhan in Japan makes roadbed track with radii of 70mm 95mm 120mm 145mm 170mm in 45 degree segments and it is available from Japan starting Wednesday. It just might be available here in Jan Feb 2011 if things continue the way they have been.

This track is compatible with MTL but tie spacing is different as is colour.

cheers Garth

 

Nope, my 3' x 6' yard module is all N scale black foam cut down to Z scale size. I made a jig to cut it down to the right size.

 

Go for it, the starter set will lead to bigger and better things. MTL sectional track is as reliable as it gets. And as D.L. points out, you can go cork or foam roadbed with MTL's flextrack. Definitely get started and on to DCC, NCE Pro-Cab using TCS Decoders, perfect combination.

Build your layout to be portable, whether you want it that way or not, you'll be glad that you did. Use the Z-Bend standards. I suggest you start with 2x4 ft. straight module(s) coupled to 2.5 wide or 3.0 wide "Balloon" end modules. If you are worried about building a module, I can build one or all base units for you to start and then you simply copy and go from there.

Join a module group in Z! You will discover a whole new area of fun, great like minded people, and learn things about this scale and modeling that you would otherwise miss or take many time longer to mater.

Good Luck, have fun!

DON

 

LOL all I was thinking when the train went by was:

...orange...orange...orange...orange...orange...orange...or-YELLOW

Next clip: HEY! NICE CHALLENGER! orange...orange...orange...

Great vid:tb-biggrin:You've inspired my new signature!

 

New to Z Scale: Update.

Hey everyone,

Well, first off, thanks everyone for their advice and suggestions from my original post and second, sorry I wasn't able to post any sooner. I had to finish-up my final paper's and then I had final exams, but now I am all done for the semester and I am on winter break until January 24th!

Okay, so here is where I am at as of now: I built three separate modules (two at 30"x4' and one at 24"x4') and put them together to make a large L-Shape layout. I also added a 1' triangle in the corner where they meet to give me a larger area to work with when I lay track down for a curve into the extension (see pictures below). For anyone who would like a reference, the legs are 2x4's and the sidings are 1x6's. The bottom base is 1/2" thick sanded plywood with 1" thick extruded polystyrene insulation board as the top base I will be building upon and laying track...so much for this being "just a side-project" in my study...

I have decided I am going to go with AZL's Norfolk Southern EMD SD70M, AZL's Chesapeake and Ohio EMD GP-7, as well as a Micro-Trains Guilford Rail System GP-9 for diesel power...luckily it's Christmas time! Oh, and I am definitely going to get my hands on AZL's new DTTX 53' Thrall Well Cars! I'm not sure about a power pack yet so I am open to suggestions. However I have been keeping my eye on MRC's Railpower 1300 modified by MTL...I am most likely only going to running one train at a time, so I am pretty sure my layout will be DC and not DCC.

Okay, so all my track is going to be Micro-trains Z Track. My dilemma is this though: since my layout is 8' long w/ a 2'x4' extension, and since apparently 220mm straights seemed to have vanished from the face of the earth, (or all of you are hoarding them) should I just purchase MTL's Flex Track and do my entire layout with that and MTL's manual turnouts? If I go that route, then how can I get the Flex Track up to the exact height of the turnouts, since those have the plastic roadbed attached? Can I just purchase Woodland Scenics N Scale foam roadbed and match it up or can I use IBL's cork and match it up? I would hate to have to use a bunch of MTL 110mm straights with that many connections...I'm not familiar with this problem because in my N Scale layout I just use Atlas Code 55 Track with Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. Oh, and one last thing, does anyone know the minimum radii for AZL's EMD SD70M's? Although I am not having any radii smaller than 195mm, they will mostly be 220mm or more if I use Flex Track, just wanted to know so she doesn't look weird on my curves.

 

If you are quick about it here a group of links from yesterday of people who say they have the 220mm straight track in stock.

I checked yes they all have 110mm and 220mm straight yesterday afternoon.

Micro Trains Track

Z TRACK - 220MM STRAIGHT 12PK - PM Hobbycraft

http://www.central-hobbies.com/products/mtz2.html

Z N Train Depot

Micro-Trains Z-Scale

Track and Accessories

There is no question using the roadbed track creates quickly an almost bullet proof solution to track. If you are familiar with laying flex in N it is not too far a stretch to doing it in Z you just have to be a bit more particular with getting it fastened down and dealing with the joints to get it smooth. SD70 will run on R170mm curves it will do it better with talgo couplers versus pilot mounted ones. You can still use the MTL switches with the flex just leave the cork out from below the switch. May need a bit of shimming depending on the cork and its thickness.