I have a portable lightweight layout and no place to use screws. My only alternative is to glue each Tortoise to the bottom of my layout. I saw a snap-in mounting bracket for the Tortoise some place but it was too expensive for the amount of switches I need. Plus it would be nice if I could simply unplug them from the layout for moving purposes. I’m thinking of something that I can make myself from maybe Vinyl siding or some other standard building material. Any ideas?
Thanks, I guess I could do that. I was trying to avoid adding to the overall size of the Tortoise which is already too long.
Masonite Cut a block of Masonite 3" X 3" (a guesstimate) attach the Tortiose to the Masonite, prewire machine, and glue to under side of layout. Hot glue, Liquid Nails or maybe adhesive caulk might work. I'm not too keen on gluing turnout motors to layouts. I want them attached with a mechanical device, screw, nail, bolt & nut something. Have seen too many "glued on" mechanical machines come loose, and usually at the worst possible time.
It would be better if I can just snap them in instead of screwing in. Plus, I’m storing all my train stuff under the layout and I’m worried about knocking off a couple off tortoises when I’m pushing boxes under. Right now I have 16 Tortoise SW Machines but plan on adding 12 more in a couple of years.
I use Industrial Strength Velcro on my NTRAK yard. http://www.velcro.com/index.php?page=consumer-products-adhesive-backed-industrial-strength I found the 2" x 15' rolls at Lowes and Home Depot. Mine are attached to plywood, so I sealed the plywood with polyurethane before attaching the Velcro. They also sell 2"x4" packages that would allow a small test on foam. If the Tortoise gets bumped, the Velcro will allow the Tortoise to release, plus you can easily reposition the Tortoise to adjust the throw. It will add to the overall height of the Tortoise.
That just might work. I bought some similar stuff in an earthquake kit for my TV and stereo stuff many years ago and it's still holding. I was actually surprised at how well it works. I think I’ll give it a test run thanks.
screw the tortoise down in opposite corners but keep the screws JUST loose enough to twist the machine out and lift--- If the standard holes don't work make a notch somewhere along the edge. If you feel you don''t want to modified the machine then make a square plate 1/2 bigger than the the tortoise and notch that and put a spin plate to slide around and hold it in place with just a notch on the opposite side. Best Regards AlanC.
Here is where you can get the 8 pin plugs for your machines for easy removal 8-Pin Edge Connector for Tortoise Switch Machine (12-pack) at Jim's Model Trains
Thanks, this maybe some good info for other readers. I decided to return all of the tortoises because they were just too large and I bought 46 mini servos and I’m in the process of installing them now. biggrin:
I've select the same solution, so... I agree. Specially on crowded yards mini-servos are simply perfect. Additionally the driver ( Octopus, Quad and Singlet) software enable to don't care too much of the positioning. That's a big advantage when you have narrow distance under the layout. I'm curious of the board where you solder the commands wire: what are the "black spiders" here? Opto-insulators?
Johnny, please let us see your mini servo installs when you get some done. I use Tortoises w/DCC, but they are too big to use on my upper deck (where they stick out like a sore thumb) and in large yards; this seems like a great solution, DCC compatible, and more affordable. Regards, Otto
I'm putting Tortises into my portable logging railroad modules that set on tabletops, and they have very little vertical clearance. There's a limited number of unreachable switches (most are ground throws); this is DC, not DCC. I came up with a way to mount them horizontal on a 2x5 mild steel nailing plate bent to a "C" shape and linkages made out of K&S 1/16 brass tube and steel wire. The machine mounts to the nailing plate with 2 screws; the nailing plate mounts to the underside of the roadbed with 2 screws, its a pretty cheap way to go horizontal instead of vertical. Because its on a predrilled steel nailing plate the mounting isn't half bad under the layout. You can orient the machine to any position in 360 degrees on the horizontal and have the linkage to either side or the center of the throwbar. Not sure if anybody except me cares, I'll post pictures if they do. I'm still not convinced this is the best way to go here. One of the reasons I like Tortises is that you can use a DPDT for both control and switch position - you can tell the way a hidden switch is thrown just by looking at the DPDT. I used Lamberts on my large layout and had lit pushbuttons; that put a six-wire cable to every switch (3 for solenoid control and 3 for light indicators) and that got to be really a PITA to implement. I'm intrigued by those servos - could those work the same DPDT control method as a Tortise or not?
You can go on line to Tam Valley Depot for all the information that you need for servos. http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/howto/servomounting.html I chose the Octopus II Eight Servo Drivers because I have so many turnouts and I needed to cut costs. I have added Ys to combine some of the turnouts such as crossovers to bring down my total of control points to 36. So I have 5 Octopus II Eight Servo Drivers controlling 36 drivers for 46 servos. I also wanted to use DCC control with LocoNet to operate routes. You can buy such a system, but it’s costly and I’m not a rich man. So I’m going to use a Team Digital SIC24AD instead of push buttons which has routing and LocoNet. The problem is coupling the SIC24AD with the Octopus II. Ducan from Tam Valley suggested optoisolators and that is what the “spider thing is” in the photo. The set up in the photo is my first attempt which failed because I didn’t recognize this as a logic circuit and did not install 1K resisters as shown in the Octopus manual. I added the resistors and it works beautifully with my test circuit using an external 4.5v power supply to activate the optocouplers. I have yet to program the T.D. SIC24AD to see how it will work. I don’t have LocoNet yet because I’m using a NCE Power Cab, but I’m planning on changing over to Digitrax this Christmas. When I’m done I plan to make a video of its operation.
So... you've the same as my configuration, except I will "never" replace NCE with Digitraxx. If you want to use your SIC24 interface I've see (sure is in some folder here in this Personal "Confuser" ...and when I've found I can post here...) a "bridge" to connect your NCE accessory bus to Digtraxx peripherals. I've add the 5 Amps station-only to my PowerCab and use it as master Cab. I use one 12Vdc Psu to provide power to Octopus (and some Singlet in spare spurs) + Optocouplers board. I'm sure interested on your video! keep the good job on! Cheers
Randgust I’m at work so I only have few minutes, but to answer your question yes you can add SPDT or DPDT switches in the form of micro switches and you don’t need DCC to do operate the servos. Plus they are cheap. I think I paid about $2.5 each for the servo and about $45 for the Octopus II Eight Servo Drivers. Each Octopus Driver controls 8 servos. If you don’t use DCC then you can use toggle switches or push button switches.
Found! The Team Digital SRC16 and SIC24AD have an option they call a "DCC gateway," which will take the switch commands from another DCC system and place them on Loconet. See here the SRC16 connections for this use: Turnout and Signal Control
Guys- I am a simple sort of guy and I use Tortoise machines on my DC layout. If I understand correctly, and PLEASE correct me if I am wrong, this servo think will be able to replace a Tortoise in its entirety and is a lot cheaper so that all you need for each is a servo and a SPDT (which, I think is also the Atlas Selector, the one with the green buttons). Question, if the above is correct and I can use a SPDT with a servo- I read that the Tortoise shorts itself out on purpose so that the rail is fixed either in the open or shut position to be able to avoid the points floating about. Is this also true with the servos?
No the servo does not operate the same way. You have to have a servo driver such as the Tam Valley or Teem Digitals Servo Driver. You can buy a single driver for one servo or for 5 servos. I have the one for 8 servos and it works on DC as well because you have to have a separate DC power supply. Servos are cheap and they range from $2.50 to $20 + per servo. I’m using the $2.50 for my Code 55 turnouts. The advantage to using a toggle switch to control the servos through via drive is that the toggle switch can also be a 2 pole or even a 4 pole switch for Frog Power or signals.
Mark, as Johnny points out, the servos don't quite operate as the Tortoises do as they need to have a stop point rather than stall at full throw. I have four servos operated by an Octopus controller, two of which are on the same output in a crossover configuration. The frogs on the C55 turnouts are powered through a SPDT micro-switch double sided taped to the side of the servo. The servo was $4.50, servo mount (incl throw wire) $2.50, control button $2.50 (or $3.25 for the fancy red/green version) and the switch $0.60. Add $1.00 for a 12" extension cable for the servo lead if needed. A simple, cheap wall wart type power supply of 7-17V DC @ 500mA will see to the power requirements. All up it works out under $15 per turnout complete with control and indications (based on all 8 outputs used) and is truly plug and play. My latest blog has images of the Tam Valley Depot items.
