For the record, here's my first attempt at an AT&SF 4-8-4, #3779. It had the old mechanism at the time of the photo, which did allow me to install a full cab interior, including backhead and all of the levers. It isn't weathered in the photo, and has the wrong backup light. I had modeled it as if it were an excursion engine, hence the shiny paint. SInce the photo, it has received a new split frame mechanism (thanks Philip), and is currently being "restored" back to it's correct appearance. Fortuneately, at least the tender numbers are correct, but the "Santa Fe" is the wrong size...................
Contact Jason Smith(Superturbine). we have lots of the 6 axle shorty tenders in resin!! I work for BNSF and im all over the place. I have to take my modeling stuff as its pretty much my only time to model as i dont have a lot of time at home.
Thanks!!!!! I'll drop him a line. BTW, what trucks do you use. The 6-axles had a somewhat distinct truck, do you have those too, or do you use something else?
Honestly, i use the factory Kato 6 axles GS4 tender trucks. Of course my brass northerns have the correct trucks but when it comes to good pickup, the GS trucks are the way to go. We actually use the whole tender frame/trucks and drop the resin shell over it. You just cant go wrong with the Kato quality engineering although theyre just not right detail wise. Oh and the pictures posted earlier in the thread by Superturbine and RCWjR are resin cast northern boilers from Jason(Superturbine) on Kato GS4 mechs. Its honestly the way to go for a good running ATSF northern without buying brass.
I have a simple question... what does 3 feet work out to for N scale? (Total train newb here with my first post... but have many years of scale modeling with plastic kits) I'd like to do an ATSF 2-10-4 out of a couple of Bachmann Northerns I have and am trying to figure out the length difference. Would appreciate any input. BTW - been lurking these boards for a few weeks now and gotta say that I've seen some awesome stuff posted up. Keep up the good work fellas and keep posting pics!
Presuming that the model is to the scale dimensions that the prototype is then it only becomes a matter of of having two shells and using an N scale rule or 1:160 ruler to determine where to cut each shell to add the 3 feet. Not having an N scale rule then you could use a rule divided into mm in which case then 1.92 mm equals 1 foot in N scale.
Yeah, I don't have an N scale ruler... but sounds like about 5 to 5.5 mm? I'll just be happy to be in the ball park. Thanks.
If you are planning to do any serious scratch building or even kit bashing they are a relatively cheap addition to the tool box and most of the scale rules are available from a lot of our Trainboard retailers or most hobby shops that carry a decent amount of N scale items. If the specs say something is 110 feet you have it right there on the rule no math needed. The good ones will have both N scale feet and metric and are available in metal and plastic and can measure 160 N scale feet. I have both but favor the see through plastic for that reason plus the fact that you can bend the rule around some slight curvatures when set on edge. A good caliper is also a life saver and now they even have them as digital.
I prefer dial calipers and a calculator for any type of scratch build work. A scale rule is still very handy to have though. I use them to find rough measurements and get a feel for how long something should be.
5011 class Texas 2-10-4: 104" boiler diameter, 26'-6 rigid wheelbase, 50'-2 engine wheelbase, 66'-3 length, 538K pounds engine only 2900 class Northern 4-8-4: 102" boiler diameter, 21'-3 rigid wheelbase, 50' engine wheelbase, 64'-5 length, 510K pounds plus engine only Good luck! Regards, Otto K.
Thanks Otto, the binding on my so well worn copy of Worley's Iron Horses of the Santa Fe Trail is sooooooo getting weak especially at the northern section, that I wasn't wanting to go check the numbers, LOL. I could pay to have it rebound, OR...buy more train stuff, so guess which will happen.
So only about 3.5 mm difference then? That doesn't seem like much at all, but yet there seems to be quite a visible difference to my eye in length between the Texan and Northern. At there any good profile drawings out there of the two?
Model Railroader - Steam Locomotive Cyclopedia Volume 1 It has drawings of both loco's in it. The boiler length shows up in the coarse just behind the pop off valves and in front of the firebox. The trailing truck on the 4-8-4 is 6' wheelbase w/50" wheels vs. the 2-10-4 at 5' wheelbase w/40" wheels. The drivers are what make the difference. The 4-8-4 has 80" drivers vs. the 2-10-4 at 74". Those 5 smaller wheels plus the lack of a 2 axle pilot really stretch out the looks of the loco.
3463, your challenges with stretching the Bmann northern will be many, not the least of which will be the rigid wheelbase at 28' plus. While your drivers maybe close to scale 74", driver spacing due to our oversize flanges will stretch the wheelbase to give you a loco longer than it should be. ... The "flange dilemma" strikes again... Regards, Otto K.
But like I said... "ball park." I just like "tinkering" with such things. Thanks for the help fellas.
I have two ATSF northern's built on the KATO GS4 mechanism that superturbine built with his castings, here is a pic of one of them:
You guys really have done some awesome work. It still escapes me there is no commercially available 4-8-4 or Pennsy K4 in N scale.... you just have to wonder sometimes. Superturbine, sent you an email.... either you answer or I might have to visit RWCJr's layout and stage a break in.
Give Superturbine a little time, he has a full day before he escapes to the train room. Here is a pic of the other engine: