Well, I use PVA, white glue, wood glue, all the same stuff just different names. I've used it to glue cork onto ply, MDF and chipboard with excellent results. I also mark the centre-line and use two pieces of cork. Three reasons for two pieces, one is that it is easier to follow the centreline, second is that as the cork isn't as wide it is easier to form around curves and third reason is that the centre line is transferred through to the top of the cork by the join. One of the consistent things I have noticed in this thread is that everyone seems to be applying the glue to the roadbed. I apply the glue to the underside cork as a thin bead (I use three foot lengths of cork) I then spread it out with my little finger (important) to a thin coating along the cork. I then just lay the cork down along the centre line. Using this method, the centre line never gets obscured and the glue is only on the cork. Ah, also I make my own strips. I buy a three foot square sheet and strip it myself using a balsa stripper it only takes a few minutes to strip that three foot sheet and is much cheaper, also as an added bonus I can create strips any width I need. Cheers, Alan.
Good question, I guess it would depend on your environment. As for change shape, no, I have never noticed a cork roadbed change shape. As for drying out I haven't had a layout in the past down long enough to notice although the one that I am building atm some of the cork has been down three years and is fine. I guess though over a period of time it would dry out although I would think that if the layout has been down that long then the cork would be covered in glue from gluing it down and ballasting. Even if it did dry out I can't see it being detrimental to the running of the layout. Cheers, Alan
This is what I was trying to do in the beginning, but for some reason I was making more of a mess than progress. I may go back to this method when I get to the yard, but with a lot less glue. I’m hoping that I can sand off the excess glue that ended up on top of the cork. I don’t know if it is going to cause problems when I start laying the code 55 track. I read someware that I need to sand it all smooth before laying track. This is something I didn’t do that on my first Code 80 layout.
I don’t know if this means anything, but I have two boxes of Midwest cork and I noticed that one box isn’t the same quality as the other. One seems to crumble when I pull it apart. I thought about cutting it and if I had that cutter Alan uses I would have. Oh that reminds me, Alan does that cutter cut angled edges?
Nah...the stuff I used allowed me to pick the trackbed back up and reposition it if needed. I worked about 3 feet at a time. No fuss...no mess...no leveling...no bubbles...no troubles...lol :tb-biggrin: :thumbs_up: *Thinking of using it again in T.H.E.Yard. I may even spray over whatever I use for trackbed in there...and stick the flextrack down with it. Stay tuned for updates... .
Yes, the secret is not to use to much glue, just enough so that when you spread it out with your little finger (as no-one has asked why I'll assume you know why the little finger) so that you can just see through it. No, it doesn't only 90deg. Cheers, Alan.
Great minds work alike. But if it still isn't working for you, I guess what works with Titebond III doesn't work with Liquid Nails. What is that surface that you are laying your track on?
Thanks, I got it now. I’m hoping to have the roadbed done in a few days. I would have been a lot closer, but I had to stop to do a brake job on my daughter’s car. I’m a little tired now so I’ll start up again tomorrow after work. It will give what I got done now a chance to dry.:tb-biggrin:
"One of the consistent things I have noticed in this thread is that everyone seems to be applying the glue to the roadbed. I apply the glue to the underside cork as a thin bead (I use three foot lengths of cork) I then spread it out with my little finger (important) to a thin coating along the cork." You and I are together on this one except that I use a piece of scrap cork to spread it on the underside of the cork. That cutter thing that Alan has is manufactured by the Windsor Propeller Corp., uses a #11 Exacto blade, adjusts for the width and depth of the cut and has saved my fingers from incursions by a blade that were had when I used a ruler and a blade with a handle.
