I’m trying to figure out how you connect the wires to the Peco Powered frog. Now I am NOT taking about a wiring diagram, they are all over the internet. I want to see the physical connection of where to solder the wires. A close-up photo would be nice. I don’t have a Peco turnout to examine and I’ve looked at way too many photos without any wires connected to them, so I’m confused. I’ve never had a powered frog before and never really had a problem. I had to change plans on my yard because the Atlas #7 C55 turnouts just take up too much space and I’m thinking of maybe going with Peco #6. I have already have Atlas #6 turnouts that fit, but I’m starting get concerned about stalling. There are too many turnouts and with the slow speed limit in the yard, I might end up with a problem. It probably doesn’t matter much because I have to manually uncouple the cars and it would be just as easy to give it a push, but it might be a pain having to push the loco through every turnout in my ladder.
I assume you mean the Peco code 55 Electrofrog and you are using the Peco Switch machine (PL10 or PL10E) and associated Peco SPDT (PL13) switch that fits onto it. All I can tell you is what I have done and it isn't what I have seen on the net and is much simpler than jumper wires and cutting here and there as I have seen in some illustrations. All I do is solder a wire to one of the rails that leads from the switch blades to the frog. I usually solder it in the outside off the rail on the non viewing side of the turnout. The other end goes to the PL13 which is wired to each side of the bus wires (DCC). On the exit of the frog I use Peco insulated joiners to isolate the frog rails from the next section of track. Now I was worried about getting a short but as the switch machine switches the blades at the same time as the PL13 the polarity of the frog changes at the same time. Hope this helps. Alan
Thanks Allen, I didn’t know how the wires are attached. I would think that since the turnout is sold and marketed as an Electrofrog, there would be solder tabs, maybe wire leads or something, but I could find anything in the photos I’ve looked at so far. I did read about someone talking about not using the tabs and doing something similar to what you just mentioned, but I wasn’t sure how it was attached. Since I first posted this, I’ve been reading everything I can find not only at TB, but at Atlas and other N-scale forums and I’m getting the impression that Peco is the only one with powered frogs. Is that true? Are there other C55 turnouts wired or modified for a powered frog? If Peco is the only one than I may just forget about it all together.
The photo below shows how I wire my Peco turnouts. The frog wire is cut at the green X, then straightened and wrapped around the end of your wire and soldered at the location of the red check mark. I run that wire to my DPDT switch. Also under the turnout are two holes beneath the closure rails. I open those up by carving them out with an X-acto knife, then solder a wire to each rail. I run those wires to the bus. The rest of the connections I make on the sides of the rails after the turnout is set in place. One pair is run to the DPDT switch and the other pair to the bus.
I decided to buy a turnout so that I can check it out up close. I’m having a lot of trouble finding a close-up picture of one.
The first thing I do with my turnouts is cut the frog with a disc, to isolate it. The wire also needs to be cut--otherwise it won't be isolated. I do all this because of my own particular wants and needs. My understanding is that not everyone does it. Perhaps some others here can talk to you about what they do and why.
I just discovered that from another thread next to this one that I can power the frog on Atlas C55 and I already have that track. The only reason for going to Peco was for the powered frog and that #6 turnouts are available. All I need now is to figure out how to shave 1” off my ladder of #7 turnouts and I’m back in business. smile:
Johnny, There's no need to play with it Ie., cutting to isolate and soldering new wire contacts. No need to go there. The power is routed via the movable points. It's all built in. The only maintenance I have to do is keep the track and inside of the points clean and it Works fine. Ahh, wait there is something else I do. I flip them over and sweat some solder into the railjoiners that hold the movable points to the stationery points. That done the power gets through just fine. Did you catch Brooks and Dunn, The Last Rodeo...tonight? Awesome stuff.
Thanks Rick, that’s helpful and yes we did watch Brooks and Dunn, well I was busy trying to get staging/yard layout problems solved so that I can start laying track, but the wife was watching it while I listened. laugh:
That is the only reason why I route power to the frog. I have found that I'd rather have it wired up than having to go round and either clean all of my turnouts to make sure they will perform during an operating session or wait until locos start to stall over the points during a session and halt all movements until they have been clean. It doesn't take much dust to 'insulate' the switch blades from the sides of the rails. So basically it is a fail safe. Cheers, Alan.
I think I finally got it. Now an Atlas Switch Question Ok, Now I think I finally got it. Without actually looking at one I could not picture it and the more I read about wiring it, the more confused I got. I did not realize that it was all built in. This is another one of those times when I wish I lived near a well stocked LHS. I went through this very same thing when I was trying the figure out the Kato Turnouts without actually seeing one up close. So now that I understand the Peco I want make sure I understand the Atlas C55 switches or “turnouts”. I have a large box of turnout’s right in front of me, but I haven’t opened a single package yet just in case I have to sell them if I can't use them. I see a tab for screw or solder next to the frog, but I do not know what’s it’s connected to exactly. The drawing shows it connected to the outside rail which doesn’t make sense to me at all.
That's why I do it, too, Alan. I really enjoy never having to worry about points--especially since I have so many. Others do it because in DCC, a locomotive going over an electrified frog can short--and if it shorts, it can melt down. Electrified frogs are great because there is no stutter as the engine goes over the frog, but a melted down engine can hurt, too! Here are a couple of nice videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmLFUHET9QY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RwxgO43fVw The only thing I would disagree with here is the diagram that shows feeders soldered onto the ends of the rails, past the throw-bar. Soldering at the ends of turnouts was a disaster for me: as the ties began to melt, the rails began to turn inwards. So I don't do that anymore.
Thanks, Great video. I never even thought to search YouTube. That would have explained a lot right off. Well I’ll think I’ll look for some more stuff on YouTube that I’ve been wondering about. Thanks again.:thumbs_up:
The recommendation I received was to use auxilliary contacts with the electrofrog turnouts rather than relying on the physical contact of the point rails with the stock rails. This will ensure that the frog is powered.
Thanks for the info. I have a question for you. I noticed that you are from Pittsburgh. I’m flying in to Pittsburgh tomorrow and I was wondering if you knew if Esther's Hobby Shop carries Peco turnouts. I bought some Kato stuff there the last time I was in town and I remember him saying that he didn’t sell much of the C55 stuff, but I wonder if he might have a #6 C80 turnout with the electrofrog floating around. I plan on stopping by anyway while I’m in town and then I'm off to Wheeling, WV.
Johnny and all tuned in, I haven't had to clean the points on my Peco switches in years. My early brass ones required daily cleaning but the new (new to me) Nickel Silver seldom needs cleaning and they work fine. This will help you understand the sum total of switches out there. They are all built to be power routed through movable points. Seldom is all the work needed to wire in as has been illustrated here. For those of us that had nothing but trouble with our 50's, 60's and 70's brass switches we are still in the mode of playing it safe. To solder in those reassuring wires. It's not a bad idea but not necessary with today's products. Don't get me wrong my Peco switches aren't fool proof. This is why I sweat some solder into the rail joiners between the movable and unmovable points. Be sure to have the movable points aligned to the solid rail and then solder. Otherwise you end up with a switch that won't close. Nickel silver will oxidize creating a type of natural insulation. The good news is, it's easy to remove... by running a locomotive over the track, it will push right through it. So keeping the points cleaned is seldom a issue. You might remember from your visit here that I have the Peco, Kato and some older Atlas switches. You might remember the Kato switch I opened so you could see the interior. Kato, actually has a switch mechanism built into it with wires soldered in place the same as Chaya, illustrated. Again, it's all built in. One of the interesting things with "Power Routed" switches is that when you throw the switch against a dead end spur the power is turned off to one rail or side of the track. You can run a locomotive into the spur track, throw the switch against it and it will stay put until it's called back into service. Have fun with your switches and go ahead and install them. Your going to like the results...I guarantee it.
People in different parts of the country will get different results. You live in the mountains. I live in the high desert. Here, sticky dust chronically coats everything. I have problems with my points: so I wire turnouts to bypass the points. There are other problems besides sticky, pollen-heavy dust--like humidity and pollution. It very much depends on where you live.
