Painting question

Ratcals Nov 25, 2001

  1. Ratcals

    Ratcals TrainBoard Member

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    This may seem like a dumb question but I'm curious as to how everyone paints their N scale window when they're already molded into the wall? Do you A)mask and spray them, B)spray them without masking them or C)hand paint them :( . I can't seem to get mine to look good enough. Hand painting doesn't work for me unless I lay off any and all caffeine products for at least two weeks ;) . Masking them takes a long time. Thanks.

    Mark
     
  2. Gats

    Gats TrainBoard Member

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    Seems to be only a couple of ways to do this, Mark. I just trawled the N List search as this subject has come up in the past, particularly regarding DPM kits.

    You have covered the methods yourself. The N List's consensus leans to either painting the brick colour first then masking off the door and windows and spraying and hand finishing (or just hand finishing with no masking) or spraying the trim colour then hand finishing the brickwork.

    Personally, I paint the brick then handpaint the trim/doors/windows. It's time consuming for sure and you really need to be in the mood for it but the end results look great. I have masked in the past but you still need to get into the door and window frames with a brush in the end to either touch up the trim or brick, sometimes both (OOPS! [​IMG] ).

    Gary.
     
  3. Ratcals

    Ratcals TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Gary. I'll take a look in the archives. As I alluded to in my original question, I'm shaky MoFo (you should see me solder). I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with the very fine airbrush nozzles. Testors has a .30mm nozzle they claim is for fine lines and dot work. I don't have one that small, but I'm thinking about ordering one. Anyone used it?

    Mark
     
  4. nmtexman

    nmtexman In Memoriam

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    There is also a product on the market that you just brush on. It hardens up, you do your painting then peel it off. Can't remember the name because I haven't used it in a while.
     
  5. Gats

    Gats TrainBoard Member

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    Mark, if you are shaky with a brush, how will you be with an airbrush? ;)
    Supporting your hand whilst painting will help a long way. Ever seen a signwriter painting (yes, they too are a rare breed in this day of vinyl cut lettering ;( ) using a rod with a ball of cloth resting on the sign? Maybe, you could use a block on your workbench to place your hand over the piece, or maybe consider one of those new-fangled mouse pads with the gel-filled bulge on one side. They could work as a 'hand steady'.

    I think, nmtexman, you may be thinking of MicroScale's Micro Mask (blue) or Humbrol's Maskol (purple). Both are a paint on liquid that dries to a rubber-like film.
    It's application is a fairly inprecise art when you compare with freer flowing paint and hard to get cleanly into crevices. In some situations it's good but sometimes I have found where concave detail work is involved it becomes difficult to get off the detail without having to pick at it. (Did it once with a loco numberboard - not doing that again! [​IMG] ). It's a try it and see thing.

    An important note paint brushes - don't scrimp on them. It's simply not worth it. Buy decent brushes and when you look after them they will look after you. I immediately clean after use and whilst moist form the the bristles to a point before placing back into the clear sheath. It helps maintain the point.
    An old trick a signwriter (remember S-S-S-Sandy, Paul?) many years ago used (when enamel paint was the norm) was lard (yes, pig fat) on his brushes after use to keep them in shape. it worked and washed out in thinners.

    Gary.
     

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