Sometimes there is no electrical contact somewhere between the wheels and the motor brushes. I usually take things apart and clean real well before putting back together. A bottle of Atlas Conducta-lube goes a long way if a drop is applied wherever there is supposed to be electrical contact. That would be where the wheel axles conduct to the truck side frames, the side frames touch the chassis and the chassis touches the bronze whipers from the motor brushes. I use an old 9 volt battery when testing so if there is a short or something, it does not have enough power in it to smoke anything. N scale wheels fit real nice across the snap connectors on the battery to give you power.
Suggestions: 1) Pop the lid 2) turn the motor over by hand to make sure nothing is jammed 3) apply power directly to the brushes or whatever attaches to the brushes to see if the motor runs and the wheels turn. Now, presuming you have a runner, take it apart, clean it thoroughly, lube it sparingly, and track test it. It should run as well as it did 25 years ago. A loco that has sat for 25 years should not go directly on the track, IMO. 1) I don't want 25 year old crud on my track 2) you can damage the loco doing it. My own experience, learned "the hard way"
Soooo... assuming some of us have some oooooolllllldddeee engines and we want to recondition them a bit, whats the best lube for it?
Most hobby shops sell La Belle products. They range from heavy gear oils for metal gears to light oils for plastics. They are all plastic compatible so should not harm your engines.
Grey One, I know from previous posts that you are visually challenged. Here's an alternative method, which worked for me, not because I was visually challenged, but because I am the most impatient SOB that ever lived. Pop the shell--that's a given. I think you can't get away without doing that. Get some Radio Shack spray "Tuner Cleaner." No, we're not talking about getting rid of Bill Parcells here (finally), just the spray. Go outside with lots of paper towels. And just spray that stuff into every nook and cranny, blasting away the old white grease, and anything else in the spray's path. Spray until the stuff drips out of every nook and cranny. When it stops dripping, wrap it in the paper towels to absorb the spray. Let the package dry outside for at least 24 hours--no, I'm just kidding. But make sure you dry it enough so the motor inside the frame is dry--maybe 4 hours. When you go inside, wash hands thoroughly, please. I'll bet you it will run when you place it back on track.
If you still have troubles, I'll be happy to take a peek and tinker with them if you pay the postage - I've done this before. Bad news: is that none of them I've "restored" (except one) actually ran worth beans even though they were cleaned/lubed as much as they could be. Now this "could" be all my fault/lack of revitalization skills and I may not have done it right at all, but I'm pretty sure I did. But my 2 cents would be to get new ones and sell the old ones "as is" on eBay - or wherever.
Pete, Exactly the process I use!!! Add a little lube when all done and there ya are....usually. Sometimes, I'll go through and polish the brass pickups and the backsides of the wheels too.
Thanks Mike, Might just do that. Um, Pete and John, I'm not afraid of opening the shells. If I need an extra pair of eyes I'll put them aside till I can get help. Um, why "outside". Are the fumes toxic? or does it make a mess? It is currently 5 degrees ouside and I live in a condo complex on the "less expensive side of town". They would be stolen before they froze. I could do it at my mothers if need be but it is 5 degrees where she is also. The units in question are: Con Cor PA 1, (SP Daylight), and FA3. (GN Empire Builder), My MRC - 2-6-6-2, (y6B?) and Rapido Pasific have the same problem but who knows what caused thier issue. I am also less concerened about them because they look cool just standing still. Thanks again Steve
I do it inside. The spray is pretty powerfull and will get all over though. The bathtub works well. Also, make sure you check for debri in the spaces of the armature where the brushes make contact. Sometimes there can be a buildup. I usually carefully use my exacto blade to clear it up. I don't pay any attention to fumes of any sort much. Just keep a window open if it bothers you though I'm sure a well ventilated area is recommended.
Grey One, It's not extremely toxic, IIRC, although you do have to be careful with any aromatic hydrocarbon. I don't have a can of it around to read the labels. It's just messy. I use lots of paper towels just to absorb the stuff.
I recently bought some lubes for my O scale lionel trains at a train show. 1. Lubriplate- Grease w/ teflon 2. Lionel oiler. Can either of these be used with N scale trains? more specifically are either of these plastic friendly?
About 4 years ago, took out my 31 y/o Arnold FA2 and Atlas ATSF 4-6-2. One problem is oxidation on the brushes, comuntator. It can run off, if you can keep it running, don't let it stop until it has run a while. Have to rotate the motor off a dead spot. Use a loop with no switches, just the loop to run. After running in one direction until smooth, run the other. My Atlas motor is buried, it stopped at the wrong spot, lights on, open motor. Have to dig out the shaft to turn it a little. I run the FA2 now and then just to hear it and appreciate how nice all my LL runs, sounds, and to snear at the B-mann FA7/FB7 which sounds about the same.
Well, you guys did it again. Due to pending storm I could not get to Radio Shack or U do It Electronics but you gave me the confidence to try something. I got under the shells Turned the motors a few times Put the shells back on Flipped them over and gave them juice directly. /phew Those motors spun like, well, they spun a motors. Put it back on the rails and listened with joy to the noise. Then I reached over and upped the volume of the radio. Hmmm, maybe they will quiet down with some running time and some oil. Well at least now I have an ABBA F3 for my Empire Builder. Speaking of noise. The wheels of the un powered dummy units sqeak. I'm guessing a bit of oil will fix that. Of course the noise from the engine drowns them out. Thanks again guys.!!
Steve: It's good to hear that you got those "old guys" running again. With some running time on your Unitrack and they'll be all right and ready to run. Stay cool and run steam.......
Hmmm. . . I've got a whole bushel of old Atlas 0-8-0s. Some of them actually show a few signs of life. I'll try this.
