I'm just getting back into modeling after many years. When I last modeled, the only MILW BWCs on the market were brass, and beyond my means at the time. I really hated the fact that I didn't have a correct end to my kitbashed SD10s and GP20s back then. I now find myself planning to purchase every Walthers BWC that they have, or plan to release! I don't even have an engine yet and only one freight car! Is there a name for this illness?
I don't know. I can't see the phrases "Milwaukee bay window cabooses" and "too many" in the same sentence, unless that sentence is, "You can NEVER have too many Milwaukee bay window cabooses." Now, if you still feel you have excess bay window cabooses, I run a no-kill shelter for N scale ones. Let me know. :tb-wink:
Well, if you don't mind a dent in your bank account, they've released a fair number of them. At least they aren't brass..... Boxcab E50
cthart: Yep. Must be it. I guess after modeling the MILW for many years with incorrect bay window cabooses on the end of a train behind my kitbashed power has me a bit driven to insure that NEVER happens again. SteamDonkey: To right, sir! To right! E50: True! It is great to have non-brass options! However I've been eying a brass one two that Caboose Hobbies has in the show case here in Denver! I'm signing up for the pre-order for the next series that Wathers is coming out with as well. On day I may have to actually purchase the supplies to kitbash my first unit of the "new era" of my modeling.
I ws going to say the same as Rick, Check the Milw. roster and one more than whats on the list is one to many. Don't forget the ribside bay windows made by Cabooses Northwest at Cabooses Northwest
Hmmmmm......it's like women and shoes...there's NEVER too many. And once you have all the Walthers items, you can start kit bashing. Turn the AHM/Athearn cupola caboose into a reasonable drovers caboose. Buy some scribed styrene and start rolling wooden cabooses..bay windows...tall cupolas...short cupolas.....mineral red.....silver (please fade to gray after 1 month of use)....bright yellow......28'...32'....CTH&SE cabooses....the little bobbers......some units with the red spot lantern on the top of the cupola.....transfer cabooses (cabeese?)....then you can do the insides. The dry hopper is my favorite detail..but no one here can still tell me where I am supposed to mount the TP holder!!!? The crew is doing with a 1/87 Sears catalog until I can get the TP holder from Central Stores in Milwaukee. Box-did it always take years to get orders filled from Milwaukee? Sorry my friend, but like all addicts, you're already hooked and are just beginning to realize it. Got to the MRHA website and purchase the caboose books they have. Excellent reference tools and project generators. You will be putting those roll down handles on your '48 rib-sider windows before you'll know what hit you. -Mark
I guess I'm kinda in the same boat. I have been buying the old Rivarossi/Atlas bay windows like crazy to modify into a close representation of B&O cabeese.
Thanks for the tip on the books. They are on my list! We now have the answer! "There is NO such thing as TO MANY!"
Bob That applies to locos as well, you need a bunch of SD7's, SD9's, Geeps, SD40-2, etc etc. Your going to be busy for awhile. :tb-biggrin:
Haha... I am rethinking my initial power project. Was going to go for a GP20 shop rebuild with the number boards in the nose or another SD10. I still have my old SD10 I built, but missing the nose and need to rework the cab for better detail of the number board transition to the roof line. So many options... what to do what to do... Perhaps I'll start out with an SD7 or SD9. They should be pretty easy to Milwauk'ify.
You not alone, I currently model a freelance HO mining/logging company with geared steam, in the 30's, off of the Big Blackfoot Branch of the MILW. I have had thoughts recently of N-Scale, Harlow, Sixteen, Eagle Nest, Lomard and Three Forks. So many prototypes, so little time. Help!
Sorry. At this stage, you've passed the point of no return. Don't fight it. Go with the flow... Go with... Yes. I know. Big help... Boxcab E50
What did you use, if anything as a guideline for that first SD10 model? Just curious, as there have been a couple of good articles done in the past, for both HO and N scales. One used to be uploaded on the MRHA web site. It had also been in an older issue of TMR. Boxcab E50
E50, I used photos from friends of mine there in Great Falls of several SD10s. I used the Athearn SD9 as the starting point and started cutting away. I'm afraid I've not read any articles on kitbashing them. Wish I had. Probably would have made it easier. I'll shoot some photos of it when I get home tonight. (or at least what has survived me moving several time in the past year.)
