Alright--I've decided to go handlaid track on my indoor 1:20.3 layout. And here's where it gets interesting.... It's 12x20 feet. Less if you consider the corner stairs of the barn it is in. I just need a general idea of what you guys think I can fit in and a few suggestions of where what should go. I have quite a few engines and cars, so a large yard with engine facility is definitely preferable to a short line feel, and considering the size, a loop is pretty much the only option considering train size(5-6 cars, 3-4 car passenger trains). There is already some benchwork with a flat tabletop which has existed for several years now, but my plan is to build L-girder style benchwork on top of the table and raise the track 4-5 inches off it allowing for some slight grade differentiation. Clearances have to be for D&RGW K-27s and fairly wide cars, minimum radius at 4', car length at approximately 1.5' freight and 2' passenger. Cabeese are 1.25', while engines are an average of 2.5', and a K-27 is 3'. Only one engine bigger than 2.5', though, so keep that in mind. Inner tracks can be as close as they have to be, but the outer tracks have to stay away from the sloping roof walls of the barn; so it's probably best to limit the railroad to 6" to a foot from the sides. Diagram of the space and the benchwork there currently is below. Track, being handlaid, can go nearly anywhere as long as there's room for a ground throw switchstand. I have no problem with 2' aisleways, I'm 18 and can handle it. Thanks in advance!
Looks interesting! Some clarification, please... It looks like the 12x20 space, minus the 30 inch wide stairs, minus the 3' aisle at the bottom, minus the 30 inch wide aisles on the left, right, and top, yields a rectangle in the center of the room that is about 6' by 12'. Are you firmly set on a rectangular island type layout, or would you be comfortable with an around-the-room C-shaped or G-Shaped dogbone? An around-the room option might offer several advantages: 1. Going around the outside of the room would give you a much longer mainline. 2. The aisles would be closer to the center of the room so you wouldn't have to contend with hitting your head on the sloping ceiling. 3. The longer mainline will provide a sense of actually moving from one place to another rather than orbiting around a 12 foot oval. 4. If you set up a long dogbone around the outside of the room, you will still have the option of putting a train on the track and orbiting, if that is what you prefer; but the longer main gives you more operating options (more places to put industries where you can pick up or set out cars), if that is what you prefer. For what it's worth: take a look at these around the room variations. I've offered 3 different footprints: 1. C-shaped (or U-shaped from the other angle) 2. E-Shaped (or W-Shaped from the other angle) 3. G-shaped I don't know how much space you have at the top of the stairs, but you may be able to put some industries or yard tracks in the space between the top of the stairs and the lower left corner (in your plan) or the upper left corner (in my plans). Just make sure you can get access to inside of the loops without reaching more than 24 inches.
OOOOOOOOOOPS. It IS around the room already--perhaps I wasn't clear enough on that. Only way I could fit an 8' diameter circle in the barn. There isn't enough space for a peninsula unless it's single-ended and not part of the main.
Great Google-dee-moogle-dee! I certainly wasn't thinking too clearly yesterday: not only did I reverse the aisles and benchwork on your plan, but when I read your words, "4' radius", I mistakenly interpreted them as "4' diameter" in my head when planning the return loops. A 4 foot diameter loop is something in the Lionel range--but I should have realized that dimensions for your trains are roughly twice as large as Lionel! Hmmm...1:20.3 is about 8 times larger than N-scale (1:160), the scale I'm used to thinking in. Recalibrating my brain... N-scale parallel track centerlines are about 1.25 inches apart (1.0 inches in a crowded yard, and 1.5 inches on a sharply curving double track main) 1. Does 1:20.3 use parallel mainline track centerlines about 10 inches apart from each other? 2. How about parallel yard track centerlines? On a 30 inch wide shelf with the back track 6 inches from the wall to allow clearance from the sloped ceiling, how many parallel yard tracks can you have and still have a mainline loop that passes through the same section of shelving? (Centerlines of 2 yard tracks at 6 and 14 inches from the wall and a mainline centerline at 24 inches from the wall or 6 inches from the fascia board?) In N-scale, it takes about 10 inches for a common turnout to curve off of a straight track and S-curve back to a siding that is parallel with the original straight track. 1. In 1:20.3, using sharper turnouts and placing parallel tracks closer to each other will influence the numbers, but, on your layout, how many inches does it take to cut off of a straight mainline and onto a parallel siding?
For that large scale equipment this is only enough room for one large yard or town scene or perhaps something like this http://members.trainweb.com/bedt/indloco/ht.html which would be about your room size in 1:20 scale....dave
An 8" track center is about as low as I can go due to marker lights extra clearance for future engine purchases. I cannot do a normal turnout-curve S-turn; these trains require at LEAST two feet of straight track between corners due to the body-mount couplers and length. I don't even have room for a number 4 turnout; all the ones I have now are 4' radius turnouts, with a straight track of about 1.5'. Since I'll be handlaying, though, I can build a turnout anywhere; I'm already predicting plenty of curved turnouts, and I have no problem with that. And in regards to total depth, I am ready and willing to add more benchwork if it will help. I was actually considering a roundhouse and a turntable in the middle of the room...which might be pushing it a BIT too much considering the room size...
Hi Robbie, do I understand you right about the available space? When allowing space for the stairs and the sloping roof the maximum train area is about 17x10.5. With trains 3,5 times as large as in HO-standard gauge the comparable HO space would be 5x3. A doughnut type track plan with a simple oval is probably the only option. the 6" (or 7"?) spacing between parallel tracks can easily lead to overly wide shelfs. Keeping shelf width down to 30" would create a central operating pit of more then 5 feet wide; quite comfortable. BTW your engines are big enough for live steam. Have you ever thought about life-steam? Paul
8 foot diameter is pretty small for a K- 27. Most K's I seen run have been on 10 radius or bigger. I don't think it would go around a 8 foot cricle. Don
Do the steps in your barn go DOWN from the train space? Have you considered a very narrow shelf only 1 track wide plus a little clearance that runs over and behind the stairwell. Might require a temporary "bridge" over stair during construction. But this would allow you to come up INSIDE the layout which would go entirely around the space with no break, no turnback curves...
Blast from the past! Didn't expect to see this up here. I'm currently graduating from college and am likely going to be moving out of the house shortly--unfortunately college got in the way of serious layout work for the last few years. I'm hoping to find a job for a year or two near home to save up before buying a house with a basement so I can start a larger permanent layout. I'll update you guys if anything happens.
In 1:20.3, unless logging only, curves can be an issue. Look for 10' radius as a minimum anymore (mine is 6'8" and works...but limits some bigger stuff). Full sized passenger cars may go around smaller curves, but look like Lionel 027 doing so. Defeats the reason for going to 1:20.3 in the first place. Even 6'8", requires with wall clearance, about 14 feet across the walls just to fit with no straights. Personally, if indoors, I'd use 0 2-rail. I've got a fairly large house, fairly large basement, but only 0 indoors, #1 outdoors for me. It can effectively be done indoors, you just need to be creative. Dave
