Unable to find the road name decals I need, I've about decided to letter a black steamer with Woodland Scenics dry transfers. I've used dry transfers on control panels, but not on rolling stock. To me, nothing spoils a nice model faster than bad lettering, so I want to make sure I use the transfers correctly. The Woodland Scenics instructions okay the use of gloss and flat sprays, but don't mention using a setting solution like Solva-set or Decal Set to snuggle the transfer down around rivets, depressions and ridges. How do you get the transfers to settle around irregularities? Is this a reasonable procedure for dry transers? 1. Spray gloss onto the model 2. Letter with dry transfers 3. ?? Use a setting solution to settle the transfers ?? 4. Spray the model and transfers with flat. I'll appreciate your advice! Scott
You need an burnishing tool (a ball point pen would work). You rub over the letter until it lightens up on the plastic page its on and then raise. The letter should lay perfectly flat if you have done it right and are careful. Take the wax paper page and rub over the transfer... this helps to seal it in. As far as your outer coating it depends on what you are wanting your finish to be. Flat, semi-gloss or even gloss can be used. I don't know much about Woodland Scenics transfers but I can tell you a considerably better selection is available from Clover House, from complete sets to a fairly decent selection of font styles, colors and sizes if you are looking for alphabet sets. These are high quality transfers that work very well. www.cloverhouse.com/
I think they lay better on a flat (instead of gloss) surface. And all I do is rub them down, weather, and seal it all down with Dullcote.
I agree with Chris that they work better on a flat surface than on gloss. I believe that decal solution won't work on dry transfers because it acts on the decal film itself, not on the paint/letters. If after removing the film you find a small section that hasn't snuggled down enough it's a matter of putting a piece of film back over that spot and burnishing some more. Regards Ed
Jerry, Chris and Ed - thanks for the tips. Sounds like I don't want to use any setting solution - just burnish carefully. I'll do that. In fact, I may practice on an old tender shell, first. FYI Ed, I've decided I need an SPdeM 2-8-0 to go with my NdeM stuff. Great examples in Signor's book. I might even try to letter SUD PACIFICO de MEXICO. Thanks, gents! Scott
Good plan. I was wondering if the model in question was your tender that you were thinking about lettering for NdeM when you said "Unable to find the road name decals I need.." By the way, the guy who sent me the photos that I forwarded to you was John Kirchner, who co-authored that book with John Signor. Regards Ed
Another alternative is to apply the dry transfers to clear decal paper. You can then apply like a normal decal. One problem with dry transfers is that once you start to transfer the image, there is no way to adjust the positioning. Be careful when burnishing the image onto decal paper, as too much pressure can disort the image.
With an eraser. The problem with dry-transfers is when you want to apply them to surface that's not flat. (e.g. boxcar with outside braces). Almost certainly you will have a though time rubbing on the dry-transfers. That's why the only method I use is applying the dry-transfers to plain decal paper. hth Michael
Dry Transfer Removal If you haven't painted them down, and you are talking about a simple transfer, all you do is erase the offending digit or letter with a fine point common eraser. If you have painted it down you are going to have to consider removing the whole area. Also if this a compound transfer where you first burnish on a background color as in some heralds, and then follow by overburnishing to superimpose lettering to complete the signage - you will probably have to remove all of it because the paint glues everything into a single unit. WOODLAND SCENICS has some multicolored heralds that are not applied serially, as does some of the custom transfer makers. Clover House, and CDS which are the two largest makers produce a variety of transfers in some very slow moving marques. Hence, they cannot justify the costs of making multicolored transfers. The stuff that WS does has wide appeal, and also results in their small product range in this area. Single digits can be erased, after using thinner on the overspray if you wait for it to dry or nearly so. If you haven't overpainted then carefully lifting the artifact with a sharp scalpel/hobby knife out of grooves between boards (and similar) and using your fine point eraser will work nicely. I use transfers on all modeling surfaces commonly found in this hobby. I like them because I find glue down decalcomanias a pain to install, re- quiring too much time and effort. I come from the age of Chartpak and Letraset use on plans and in map making, so can work quickly an accurately with the less messy medium. Practice using transfers from any source and in short order they will be mastered. Places like MOORES and MICHAELS have barrels of transfers used by all sorts of crafter types, if you need low cost transfers to practice with. Quien Sabe?... They might even have some to use in model railroading. Good-Luck, PJB
Yes, Ed, a Spectrum 2-8-0 tender. My locos otherwise are 100% oil, but feeling lazy, I was looking for an excuse to not replace the coal with an oil bunker. Thus my interest in NdeM coal burners. But studying the disassembled tender, I think I may do the oil. In the meantime, the terrific book and photos of Messrs. Kirchner and Signor are making me think I need a little variety - an SPdeM loco instead of another NdeM. Besides, I'm gettin' tired of waiting for the right caboose for NdeM - it'd be real easy for me to convert one of my tuscan-and-orange SP crummies to an SPdeM. Thanks again for the photos and help! Scott
Rasputin and Michael - Good idea! Having to do individual letters, I was wondering how I'd space and align - perfectly the first time. At least decals let you move 'em around. Dumb question - where do I find decal paper ("film?")? If I find and use decal paper/film, then I'll be using decal setting solution (as with decals), right? Has it been your experience that that process hurts/doesn't hurt the dry transfer? Can you offer any tips you've learned, using transfers on decal paper? Thanks, Guys - I appreciate all your help.
Glad I was of help.. Plain decal paper is offered by MicroMark (Micro-Mark: The Small Tool Specialists ) and various other sources. And yes, after I put the dry-transfers down I apply the decals as usual - soak in water, apply setting solution, remove air bubbles, spray with dullcote.... hth Michael
