Tips on ME bridge track and Kato bridge

Rich Businger Jan 4, 2009

  1. Rich Businger

    Rich Businger TrainBoard Member

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    I have a bridge that is built out of 2 Kato plate girder and 2 Kato truss bidges. I going to use Micro-Engineering bridge track.

    I'm looking for hints and tips on installing the bridge track. What needs to be removed, methods of securing the track etc....


    Thanks in advance,


    Rich
     
  2. TonyHammes

    TonyHammes TrainBoard Member

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    You will need to undo the screw on the bottom and do some cutting on both ends to get the track out. I would also recommend on the truss bridge to dremel out the locking tabs. This will allow you to remove the superstructure, which makes cleaning track easier.
     
  3. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    I'll be darned, I didn't realize that was possible. I've been using a Brite Boy and a 14" dowel...real pain!.
    Thanks!
     
  4. cpr_fan

    cpr_fan TrainBoard Member

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    Kato / ME Bridge Track

    I did this the hard way too - a long stick with sand paper glued on to remove the nubs that hold the Kato track in place. There was an article within the last couple of years in NSR that has instructions on how to remove the truss web from the deck. This would certainly be an easier approach.
     
  5. TexasNS

    TexasNS TrainBoard Member

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    Really? Let me know what issue that was in. I've got four of these I'm going to be using and need to do the same thing.

    I also discovered that two of mine that I bought at a train show are "old school" and don't have the track easily attached to the deck with a screw. It's actually permanently glued or something and I really have no idea how I'm going to remove it without doing damage. But then I got both bridges for $5 so maybe I shouldn't sweat it and just go for it.
     
  6. cpr_fan

    cpr_fan TrainBoard Member

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    I'll have to take a closer look at my bridge. It certainly didn't have screws. If I recall, it took an evening to remove the Kato track that was glued to the bridge and then sand the bridge deck smooth. I clamped the bridge in a vise and then used an appropraitely sized stick with coarse and paper to sand off the nubs. I think I also managed to trim most, if not all, of the nubs down with an Xacto chisel blade first working between the bridge trusses. Also, I don't think it really mattered if you slightly nick the deck girders as you hide it with the ME track so it doesn't need to be a precision operation in my opinion.
     
  7. Rich Businger

    Rich Businger TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the replies so far.

    I pulled out the Mar/Apr 2004 NSR and read the article.

    The track on my truss brdige was held in place with a screw and the some tabs at each end of the bridge.

    There are several tab holes that look like they would hold the top of the truss on the base. However, I cannot get any of them to move and see no seam between the to pieces.

    I have shaved all the end nubs and holders off but will have to do a bunch of sanding in order to make the beams even with the end of the bridge.


    Rich
     
  8. wiking

    wiking TrainBoard Supporter

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    Rich, Kato has transition track that you use to between each track This will save you a lot of headaches.
     
  9. Rich Businger

    Rich Businger TrainBoard Member

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    I'm using code 55 and want to stick with it. Also the ME bridge track has the 'correct' tie spacing.


    Rich
     

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