OK, I am researching soldering stations and solder. I have settled on the Weller 50 watt adjustable station (350 - 850 degree F) with digital read out. That part was relatively easy. When researching for an all purpose solder for soldering rails (n Scale), general wiring ,decoders and everything in between, there are several types available. Following is a link to Kester's solder, http://www.all-spec.com/1/category/...+Wire/ALLSPEC/&w3items=25&w3group=1&w3index=1 Any comments on which one to choose? I have read on forums that the .031" dia. is a good choice, but that only partly narrows down the selection. I am leaning to the no clean stuff, but there are different types of that also, is no clean a good choice? I also note that apparently solder only has a shelf life of 2 - 3 years. Maybe one shouldn't buy to much in advance?? thanks in advance for your help
Hi Chris, I'd like to offer some things I've learned over the past forty years of soldering everything to do with my layout, including all track joints. 1 - Solder does not have a shelf-life. I'm still using solder that I bought in the 1960s. 2 - I've found that 0.015" 60/40 Sn/Pb rosin core solder easier to position and control flow. 3 - I use a small amount of rosin flux paste on all joints and wiring. Flux cleans impurities from joints as it melts. This also allows the solder to flow more quickly, thus requiring less heat from the iron. 4 - I prefer an 18W iron with a chisel tip because the less amount of available power is easier to control from spreading heat to surrounding areas. More is not better when soldering delicate joints. If you have more questions, I'm happy to help.
Hi Chris, I have been using this Kester solder http://www.all-spec.com/1/viewitem/KW24520/ALLSPEC/prodinfo/w3path=cat for many years. I started using it while I was manufacturing Model Railroad Throttles. It is "A mild, low residue core solder for electronic assembly. The residues from "245" are designed to be left on with no post soldering cleaning." It will clean off with water. I have not had any problem with it. Contrary to the ad, I have to agree with what Hytec said Solder does not have a shelf-life. I use it for soldering rail joints Installing Decoders Buss line wiring track feeders Printed Circuit Board work everything Hope this helps.
Gary & Chris, when I said "no shelf-life", I was referring to rosin core solders. I've never used, nor even heard of "no-clean" solder, so have no idea what chemicals are used for its core. Tin/lead solder alloys do not have a shelf-life, but No-Clean cores may well degrade with time, dunno......? Personally, I've never had a problem using a Q-Tip dipped in 91% alcohol to clean a soldered joint, but then at my age, why change from what works........:tb-biggrin:
Hi Chris and Hytec, The spool of Kester 24-6337-8800 I have has a DOM of 03/2004. Used it last weekend to repair the power wire on my wife laptop, and it worked as it did when it was new. Not sure why it has a "Shelf-life of 3 year from DOM." Maybe to sell more solder.
I've worked with model trains, then remote control cars, then engine control unit chipping/tuning for foreign cars, and now back into trains again. I have gone thru alot of soldering stations and irons, and have found the best by far to the be my Hakko 936. I've had it for almost 4 years now and I'm still on the original tip. It is hot enough to nicely solder scratchbuilt brass signals and rolling stock, yet can be turned down to solder fine wires and circuit boards. I've found there is typically an optimum temperature the solder likes, and the size of the connection defines the time you apply heat. I just use the high silver content solder from radio shack in the smallest diameter they stock. The large roll lasts years.
Is it the Hakko 936-12 or -11 iron that you have?? Also which tip do you prefer, or do you use different ones depending on the application?
I also use a Hako soldering station with a fine electronics tip. The Hako unit is digitally controlled. For solder, I use electronics solder from Radio Shack. It's a very fine diameter solder and I use it for soldering decoders and associated wirng in locomotives. The spool of solder from Radio Shack has lasted me many years. Have fun soldering.....
Mine is a 936-10, I've been using the chisel tip that came with it. I use the flat for larger soldering and the corner of the same tip for finer work. For decoder or finer work I'd go with the pointed tip while you're at it. It was out of stock when I purchased mine or I would have bought one. 650-700 degree's seems to be the sweet spot, there's no need for anymore than that unless you are soldering battery cable or something. I'm very picky and constantly clean the tip on the sponge, it's probably how I am still going on the original tip.
The flux is in the solder. For rail joints I use a needle file on the side of the rail to make sure I have surfaces for the solder to attach to.
Most solder is flux core, you shouldn't have to worry about adding it separately. New track solder's easily. Old, dirty, or painted rails will need to have the surface cleaned up a little. I use a small piece of scotchbrite or 600 grit sandpaper.
Thanks again !!! The Hakko soldering station has been mentioned positively a couple times in this thread. How about the Weller WS51?? Any users / comments/ recommendations?
Hi Chris, I use this weller station http://www.all-spec.com/1/viewitem/WTCPT/ALLSPEC/prodinfo/w3path=vend Have had it for about 15 years. :thumbs_up: Works great for all things I have to do on the railroad.
I've been soldering stuff for as long as I've been in Model Railroading and then some. I've got several soldering irons. A small 20-30 watt iron for small trackwork, a 75 watt iron for bigger things, a Weller 110-225 (?) watt, instant heat model for wiring and a propane torch for copper piping. There is no one soldering iron that will do everything. I use solder with flux in the solder, solder with NO flux included, and heavy solder for big jobs. Paste flux is used on most jobs, better to make sure that everything ready to be soldered is clean and fluxed before hand. I've got several sizes of solder small for trackwork, and bigger sizes for other things. It depends on how small and heat sensitive each item is. I've picked up a lot of solder on eBay. Some companies will have rolls that have the box damaged, and sell a roll for nothing. The secret about soldering is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. Don't expect to get the best results right the first time and DON'T expect to learn over night. Get some copper, brass and wires to practice on FIRST.
