This is the exact ion generator I used in my project. Ordered online and showed up at my door about 7-10 days later. Only $12 and the one that I got (part number IONB) fit right inside the PVC pipe without any trimming at all. I think their other model (part number IONA) has a metal flange that requires a bit of trimming to get it to fit inside the PVC pipe. I pick up SO MANY good tips on TrainBoard; glad to see that you were able to use some of my info on your layout. Sometimes it can be tricky to find info on the web for a particular project, which is why I try to post often on TrainBoard and add as many articles and photos on my blog as I do, even though it seems like I sometimes go to extremes! Jamie
That's the one I used for my grassinator, too. That is one fun scenery toy, you can get carried away. Took mine about 3 weeks to arrive, last summer. And, the price is right for a build-it-yourself vs the commercial one! I'm thinking about adding an adapter to allow for a narrower nozzle, to get into the tight areas better.
That forest is actually only about eight trees (I use SuperTrees from Scenic Express). With just the trees, it looked pretty sparse underneath the canopy. To make it look dense, I used small pieces of Woodland Scenics fine leaf foliage and clump foliage for undergrowth along the front edge of the treeline. Just a few pieces makes a big difference. Jamie
Hey Jamie, what sort of glue "formula" did you use for the static grass? And you applied it right over the top of existing turf right?
I use a 2:1 mixture of water & Elmer's white glue to secure all of my scenery materials. To apply the staic grass, I first soaked the area with wet water (1:1 mixture of water & 70% isopropyl alcohol). I just use a pipette to wet the existing dirt, which is a powder of ground up leaves applied earlier. Then I use the same pipette to drizzle the area with the diluted white glue mix. I then apply the fibers using the homemade applicator shown above. I used 2mm fibers along the shoulders of the road and 4mm fibers along the tracks. I do the different fiber lengths in phases: I will apply the short fibers first, then a day or so later after the glue has died and I have vacuumed up (and reclaimed) any loose fibers, I do the longer fibers. I am not sure if this is a widely used approach, but I have found that it yields a nice transition between the different heights of grass. As you can see in the above photo, my point-and-shoot camera doesn't capture the depth of the fibers. However, in the following photo, you can see how the taller fibers really stand up against the dark green of the backdrop: Jamie
That looks terrific Jamie! And that's not your typical hobby "It looks terrific" (even if it's not), but it truly does look good. I think this static grass stuff is about the coolest thing to happen to scenery in a long time. I'm a little surprised we don't see it mentioned more often or seen on more layouts.
Static grass is really the only way to go as Jamie now knows! Well done, Sir! (better get some crossbucks up, though...)
I agree about the static grass. There is no other way to go now that I have tried it. Glad I purchased several bags in many varieties! I think the reason many modelers shy away from it is the expense of the applicator; I would not be using it if I had to pay $200 for the NOCH unit. I do see more and more modelers using static grass, especially in N. Ground foam still has its use, just not for grass. Actually, I already have the approach and trigger blocks wired for these: In fact, now that you mention it, I need to order those signals since the layout will be ready for them shortly. And the sound module for the bell. I may never get to the rest of the track plan! Jamie
No, not too many places one can use ground foam by itself and create a better looking landscape than you can with static grass, except for maybe the lawn surrounding a house. I haven't found static grass short enough to make a decent lawn, but I'm still looking. I still like to use some kind of base underneath the static grass, such as ground foam, but I don't see myself stacking layer upon layer of ground foam in order to create an overgrown field for instance.
Hi Jamie. If your camera happens to have a digital macro mode, you can get really close to the subject. Im talking as close a 2 or three inches. This would allow for great detail of the grass. Just a heads up.
I have found that the homemade dirt is a great "underlayment" for the static grass. At the very least, it keeps the glue from running down the hills when applying the fibers. NJ International #2164. Many thanks! I have not had much success with the macro mode so far, although it would be worth another try. Of course a nice D-SLR would do the trick as well.
I have a little more scenery progress to report at the Old Allatoona Road grade crossing. With the wooded area behind the tracks mostly completed, I turned my attention to the hill between the tracks and the fascia. First, static grass was been applied along the road and the tracks (short 2mm fibers along the road and medium 4mm fibers along the tracks): Next, bushes, weeds, vines and other undergrowth was added to between the grassy area and the wooded area: This prototype photo shows the actual scene being modeled. Note the crawling vines that have crept down the hillside and up to the ballast: Finally, a handful of Scenic Express SuperTrees finishes off the scene. From normal viewing angles, these trees mostly obscure the opening in the backdrop: One day that family in the red Explorer may actually make it across the tracks! Jamie
No update would be complete without an actual train EDIT: Looking at this photo more closely, I really like the branch structure that is exposed on the tree to the far right, the one in front of the tracks. I need to make sure I use more "airy" trees in the foreground and save the denser ones for the background. Funny, I always thought it would look better the opposite way. Jamie
Looks great, Jamie! I agree with you on the trees. I believe the reason the denser ones look better in the back is that it adds to the forced perspective: they are further away, hence the details should be less noticeable.
Great shot, Jamie! You might want to look into shooting with "aperture priority" if your camera has it, or maybe trying Helicon Focus...I could see it on someone's cover when you tweak out the details and get it in focus...