WHat does everyone think the tightest radius one can go with but still run "BIG" locos ( sd80's and such) in n scale?
Devious10: First, welcome to Trainboard!! Second, I would consider what is the largest radius you can use, not the minimum radius. My GS4, which is my longest loco so far, looks good on 24" radius curves. There have been several interesting threads on this recently: N-Scale - which minimum radius for good operation - TrainBoard.com Minimum radius for Kato SD-70MAC - TrainBoard.com Minimum radius for 85' passenger cars? - TrainBoard.com
...and look good? Probably 24" radius is a good bet. ...and look funny but pull a train? You can squeak by with 18" ...Barely get around and not pull much? Overhang Central at 15"
I should have been a little more clearer.This is for a section of my layout that goes behind my fuel oil tank in my workshop.I need optimum performance (no headaches but do not have a lot of room for a big swing.The only time you will see it is if you are in the workshop fiddling in the staging yard.
I would still tend towards the largest radius you can muster. Are you going to be running mainline speeds there? If the train is essentially doing a loop through the backroom I would stick with about 18" as a minimum. You don't want the train dumping off the track on too tight a curve. On the other hand, if you are only running on this occasionally to get to the staging yard, you can probably get away with a little bit tighter of a curve, but go too tight and you'll have problems with cars coming uncoupled and derailments and so on.
Bugs was tormented by the Gremlin. I think the small guy lives in tunnels, behind scenery in hidden yards and in curved switches.
I asked a similar question here. Bigger is obviously better, the manufacturer will suggest a minimum radius but that will be for the loco only and won't necessarily work for that loco pulling a long train.
I guess the question is what loco's do you consider big? As far as working, looks not inclusive, I have a Kato SD90 that runs very comfortably on 11" radius unitrak. It is a test loop that my son plays with and he regularly puts together 40+ car trains with the SD90 and an Intermountain SD40T-2 up front and has no problems with breakaways or derailments. (He's three by the way, soon to be four.) Can you couple on the corners with 11", nope, but he doesn't have any problems with stringlining or unintended uncoupling. Large steam, yes you want larger for functionality. From my personal experience, 14" minimum for functionality.
There are two ways to answer this question: 1. As others have said, go for the biggest radius curves you can fit 2. 11 inch radius will support most 12-wheel diesels and some steamers, if your trackwork is solid, if you use no reverse ("ess") curves, and if any longer rolling stock uses truck-mounted couplers. The smart people here can probably tell you why body-mounted couplers are better than truck mounted ones, but I am not one of them. I am not a serious N scale modeler, I am just trying to have some fun. Using radii below 11 inch radius (9.75 inch) is possible in some situations, with 8 wheel diesels, but I would avoid this unless you have no other choice.
The best way for these long wheel base locomotives is to use the largest radius possible. However,some times we don't have that luxury and in that case I recommend nothing smaller then a 11" or 12" radius.
Oh dear...here we go again. Hrruumph! Grin! I want to welcome you to TrainBoard. Glad to have you on board. Allow me to ask you this. Explain to me what size of curve it will take to make it around the area you described? The thing is you can utilize an 11 inch radius curve and most everything will run through it. I didn't say they would like it...just run through it. If the area is basically hidden and you aren't worried by aesthetic appeal you can push the limits. Access is another concern because if you derail and have to go after the equipment...well...it may get a little tough. You see a wider curve usually translates into less derailments or what they call stringlining. Where the cars pull off the tracks due to an extremely tight curve. All to often those of us who have participated here at TrainBoard for any length of time hear this question "What is the tightest radius curve?". We've all started out in the same place and have asked the same question. We've all gotten the same answer...which is: "You need to ask what is the widest curve you can use?" Then there are others who don't ask and later regret they didn't seek out the more experienced for advice and guidance. Me thinks you've done the right thing by bringing your question here. Feel free to check out any of the historical threads here on TrainBoard. You can use our search or follow those leads by Steam Donkey 74. Let us know how it turns out.
Lifelike/Walthers ALL LL N scale steam locos are designed to negotitate a 9-3/4" radius curve, including the new 2-8-8-2 with DCC and sound. ( This was a reply that came from Walthers) They may look odd though with the overhang.
I would NOT recommend 9 3/4" radii. Three axle wheels on some diesels will not do well, especially if there is a grade involved on the turn. Addionally, your pulling power will be reduced on steam engines if there is a grade involved. This applies even if you have absolutely perfect trackwork, which most of us do not.
Another problem with 9-3/4" radius curves is that big diesels with body mounted couplers (like my Atlas C-628) will tend to pull the following car off the tracks because the coupler swings so wide. So the locomotive may make it around, but without the train....... Yup, if there ever is anoher layout in my life, it's likely to not have any 9-3/4" radius curves.
