Greetings, A search of the forums didn't show any threads already covering this, so I figure I should just ask. In planning a backdrop, I'm all set to use 3mm thick hardboard on 1x2 horizontal strips on the wall. The hardboard is cut and the 1x2 are on the wall, as shown in this photo, near the top. (White metal brackets are vertical and support the layout decks; timber strips are horizontal and support the backdrop) But there's a problem. I was all set to use my stapler through the hardboard into the timber. It's worked for my layout top (plywood) with some jiggery to make the staple flush. Said jiggery doesn't work on hardboard (it's too hard I guess), and I'm left with staples proud. As seen in the above photo, on the black fascia, on the left; or the right in line with the third white bracket So, the question is, what options do I have for hanging my backdrop off my wall? The limitations are that I can't damage the wall (any more than I already have); so nothing that anchors to the stud or marks the wallpaper. 3+19=22mm of depth before risking damage. For myself, I've thought of: staples - stand proud and would look bad glue with staples to hold the sheet until the glue cures, then removed (fiddly, but goes up quick. very permanent) nails. little short ones that can be inset and plastered over. But I'm not good with a hammer screws - but every screw I've got has a countersink >3mm deep, so the countersink would the only thing holding it to the wall! Ideally I'd love something that is quick, easy, reliable, and can be done one handed by one person - as volunteers hereabouts to hold a large sheet to a wall while I drill holes in it are few and far between Can anybody comment on a scheme that worked for them - or better still, one that didn't work, so I know what to avoid? Are there screws that can be recessed better without removing all the hardboard to "countersink" them? Or nails that work better given that I've got two thumbs and don't like hitting neither.
If your method of attachment was all along the outer edge of the back drop, and visible only at the outer edge, it might not be so obvious or objectionable. On my backdrop, I did countersink with screws and then floated and sanded over them so they are not visible. How about a long, continuous piece of metal roofing, linoleum, styrene, etc? That might make fewer splices.
Humm... I hadn't thought about linoleum before. That should allow some curvature in the corners. How to you prep the linoleum for painting? Kent
I dunno about linoleum, I'm kinda set on hardboard which I already have, cut up and stacked behind me. Tried the local hardware shop, looking for screws in more of a "T" shape and less \/ on the countersink. No dice. I know they exist, I've seen photos of them (in the book I can't find right now. grrr), I guess they just don't exist around here. I did pick up some smaller countersunk screws. Now to find my square driver and test them. It occurs to me since I know the height over layout, and the furring strips are horizontal, I could pre-drill the hardboard before putting it up, which may make it all workable.. (less waving around of power tools while dropping heavy sheets of wood on feet) Assuming the countersunk holes leave enough material to hold the screw and not let the sheet pull off the wall.
The method that we use at my club is to glue (Liquid Nails, but not the water based stuff). While the glue joints are drying, they are held in place with 1" or 1-1/2" wide pieces of lath or scrap wood that are screwed in place vertically. Four to five sheet-rock screws hold the Masonite to wood one by fours. After the glue is dry (usually several days between sessions), the screws are backed out, the lath is removed and the holes are filled and sanded. As you can see, its pretty seamless. The same method was used for the valance. The second image shows a piece of Masonite secured in place as the glue dries. The backdrop is spliced in the center of a two by four and splices are also puttied and sanded. We found that countersinking with screws (directly on the backdrop) didn't work too well as it's easy to mess up and not have enough material to hold the Masonite firmly in place. When we tore down the layout at the old club, the backdrop came off in chunks, the Liquid Nails would not let go.
Looks quite good. I did think today that if I glue it up, how am I going to get it down? At present the horizontal plans (battens? furring strips?) are screwed into the studs via the vertical metal brackets; if the glue proves stronger than the screws, I end up tearing huge holes in the walls And that's not how to win a popularity contest around here. Splicing's not too much of a problem; as I can sand and fill the seam to make it.. seamless. The problem is purely the staples standing proud. Even if the visitors don't notice them (being distracted by the awesome model trains that I will one day have ), I'll see them every day and they will rapidly drive me bonkers. <stares pointedly at a staple on the fascia> Where there's a will, there's a way...
On a previous layout, I made a 20" high backdrop using cheap linoleum stapled to vertical 1-bys at the bottom (where the staple was hidden by scenery) and at the top (where I carefully tapped the staple so it was level with the surface of the linoleum). With the back side out, it took paint very well. Over time, however, there was a tendency to sag a little bit so there was a noticeable ripple/curl between the vertical suppports. I fixed one small section by running another 1-by along the top edge of the linoleum and securing the linoleum about every 6 inches instead of just to the vertical supports every 3 feet or so. Seams between any two 12 foot long strips were never as pretty as I'd hoped and the coved corners looked good at first, but sagged after a year or so. Designing and constructing an adequate support system for suspending the coved corners would have been more hassle than I wanted to contend with so I used hardboard (Masonite) on subsequent layouts. Using linoleum as your fascia might work (e.g., suspending a 4 to 6 inch wide strip from the front edge of the layout), but consider: 1. You will have to attach the linoleum to the front edge of your layout somehow. If you have a door or frame or even the edge of homasote or plywood, you can glue, staple, nail or screw it as you like, but screws will need finishing washers; nails, staples, and screws will be very hard to hide, and glue will be very permanent. 2. The linoleum backdrop took paint really well, but on another project, I had trouble getting press-on letters to stick to linoleum for more than a few hours unless I used a variation on Liquid Nails. If you intend to label towns, stations, or blocks on your linoleum fascia, then press-on letters may not work well without extra glue. 3. The linoleum does not provide a sturdy surface. You will not be able to mount electrical switches or plug-ins directly on the linoleum. I'd recommend Masonite for your fascia. If you glue wooden blocks or metal angles directly to the back of the fascia, then you can mount the fascia with screws through the blocks or angles directly into the bottom of the shelf. This will give you a fascia unmarred by screws or staples or nails, yet you will still have the option of removing the fascia if necessary. You can get super tight curves by soaking the Masonite or by cutting shallow grooves in the back of the fascia.
I just glued mine up with Liquid Nails. I used duct tape to hold it in place at the edges for a few hours. And a few small spring clamps to hold them against the uprights. I know this is not that hard to remove, as I had to do it. Wrecked the backdrop, but didn't touch the walls. Lately I've used an air-powered finish nailer, which leaves only a tiny hole to fill. You'll have to adjust the air pressure so that the nail doesn't go all the way through. I had the nailer and the compressor. If you don't, see if you can borrow one from a friend. This method is really quick.
I've tooled up a little and bought some more toys... 1. Nail punches. Tap with hammer to make a nail flush or inset 2. Electric stapler (slightly less powerful than my spring stapler for staples) but what can drive nails as well. It won't drive the nail flush on a test; but I can tap it home with #1 3. Course-thread drywall screws. Found them! Require pilot holes and countersinking, but removes less material than triangular countersunk screws 4. Square-drive small screws. Does not require pilot holes or countersinking (but benefit from it), doesn't (quite) remove enough material to be a problem So I'm thinking towards hardboard + electric stapler ("nail-gun"?), nail it up and punch it flat and cover it with filler, sand and paint. If I want to get it down in a couple of years, just slot a crowbar in the top and heave... Thinking about linoleum, I wonder if sagging would be less of a problem with horizontal strips? You'd need one at the top to stop it curling over vertically; and enough in the middle to stop it bowing out under it's own weight, but it would ripple vertically, not horizontally Alright, thanks for all the suggestions; I'll have to post and let you all know how I get on with my attempts. Of course, now I need suggestions for how to justify buying an electric stapler... I'm sure I'll find other uses for it... like stapling timber together and building furniture and...
Managed to get a (not overly good) photo of my experiment / test piece: (click to enlarge) Testing staples, brads/nails, as well as both types of screw for holding the hardboard to the timber (click to enlarge) Pinned hardboard to the wall using electric stapler and brads/nails (even the box doesn't admit which they are!) This backdrop's only about 6" high, so I've gone with pins along the top about an inch from the edge and about every 8" or so (the length of the stapler), with more pins at each end of the curve (no pins in the curve, it's free-standing). I chickened out and widened the curve to about 14"; didn't really want more hardboard exploding in my face! I figure I'll leave this overnight, and see if it does anything unfriendly, like work loose, before I even consider looking at the main deck.
