Have you installed decoder in Bachmann N Scale Dash-8's?

I you're out there, what did you connect the red and black wires to?

I have been trying to install a Digitrax DZ143 (I burned out the 123 I was trying). I've got the orange and grey attached to the motor contacts, the motor is isolated, but still all I get on the programming track is a little bit of movement followed by an error message that says no decoder is recognized.

I took it to the local hobby shop where they used some alligator clips to get power to the red and black wires (track pickup) and the decoder was recognized and the loco moved.

So I figure there's a problem with my connection of the red and black wires. I had tried to solder them to the frame itself, but the guy at the LHS told me you can't solder to white metal and that was probably the problem.

So what did you connect the red and black wires to? Thanks.

 

What does this engine use for the lights? A 2 piece light board like the old atlas or a single one like a newer atlas? If you could post pics most of the DCC guys would be able to look at it and give you an answer even if they've never actually done one.

 

I'm not familair with the Bachmann Dash-8. Usually we solder the red and black wires to the light board traces that run to the frame contacts. If, for whatever reason, that isn't practical you can solder directly to the copper pickup wipers.

 

It's interesting. The lights are not on the board itself. Instead they sit in a separarte fixture and are wired to the board.

I think I see where you're going. I should connect the red and black to the board.

My only question then would be how do I bypass the board's control of the lights so that the decoder will control them?

I will try to post a photo.

 

How old is this engine?

 

You cut the traces leading from the light connections to the frame and solder the wires to those traces. If the light is an LED be sure to leave the resistor in the circuit; solder the white lead (or yellow for rear light) to the minus (notched) side of the LED and solder the blue wire to the side of the resistor connected to the frame, not the side connected to the LED. Some people leave the resistor side connected to the frame so that the blue wire only connects to one board. I cut the traces and jumper the two boards together because I'm not sure how different decoders will respond to a DC level on one of their DCC signal pickups.

 

This is their newer, "Spectrum" version, so it is DCC "friendly" if not quite DCC ready. The motor came isoloated from the frame and it's a split frame mechanism.

 

One more question. By "traces" I think you mean the strips of metal that are embedded in the board. If that's correct, how do you expose the metal in the board to solder a wire to it?

 

Ok well while looking at the exploded view sheet on Bachmann's site the board is suppose to have 8 holes that you just take out the plug and solded the decoder wires directly to that using the chart supplied with the engine.

 

I hope these pic's can help. One decoder is DZ123 and the other is a DZ143, both are wired to the light board, by cutting the copper traces where needed to isolate. Bruce

 

No Pics

Sorry, I tryed to post some pics for you, but I guess I did it wrong, they did'nt show up. This was my first time trying pics. Bruce

 

Ok here is what I got off of Bachmann's site which should be in the case for the engine. it shows the board has a plug that needs to be removed then all you do is solder the decoder wires to the board and it's good to go.

 

I have wired two of the Spectrum dash-8's loco's with the DZ123's using the 8 solder pads provided on the circuit board after removing the bridging clips. Just take your time and measure all the wires to the correct length and lightly tin the ends. Don't use too much solder as pads are very close together. I'll see if I have some pics I can post. Good luck.

 

Thanks' for pointing that out to me. I was trying to do it the hard way.

By the way, that diagram isn't exact for the Dash 8-CW that I have. On that loco the lights are not attached to the pcb board but are rather in separate fixtures attached by wires.

But the pads on the circuit board are the same it seems.

This will take some very delicate soldering. Hopefully I'm up to it!

 

Here is my hack solder job-


I found this picture on the web a few years ago when I was wiring mine. It indicates the correct color to pad config-

 

Ok. This is really a test for me. I'm trying to send these pictures again, although they are for the older Dash 8's. The decoders are mounted right on the light board. Bruce

 

1 remove cap

2

3

4

 

5

6

 

Wow, that's fantastic. Wish I'd asked you all before I started this odyssey (and burned out that other decoder).
I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks.